Malibu Outrigger

Discussion in 'Multihulls' started by BobBill, Dec 16, 2011.

  1. BobBill
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    BobBill Senior Member

    Tornado Hulls

    Marc, no problem.

    Here is link for pics of hulls... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hn4IzLVxIIE

    Gentleman's name is Matthew Sullivan...sullivanmj@gmail.com and he lives in New Jersey.

    If you have use for them, by all means, do not concern yourself with my interest. I am patient.

    Was looking to take the port hull and parts of the other, the beams (akas) and maybe rudder hardware...no mast or boom needed here.

    But, if these are the ticket, go for it and keep me posted.
     
  2. PeteCress
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    PeteCress Junior Member

    Is that a pivoting centerboard that I see?? If so, dat be da bomb IMHO. My major reservation about my old Mailbu Outrigger was the daggerboard hitting a coral head or, in the context of East-Coast bay sailing, solid quartz sand under 4" of murky water.

    OTOH, now that I've watched the entire video.... I have to wonder about rot. How long has that starboard hull been sitting out in the weather with that big hole in it?

    "This video was uploaded from an Android phone." ???? I think that just firmed up my resolve to supplement my IOS device with an Android tablet.


    FWIW, 20 minutes is not unrealistic.

    Last time I put a stopwatch on it, the rigging time for my Ulua was 19:34.

    That's starting the timer when I get out of the car with trailer parked about 75' from the water and ending it when the canoe is half in the water with sail hoisted. i.e. rolling it off the trailer on to the beach wheels; wheeling it to the edge of the water; rigging iakos & pola; rigging sail; deploying steering oar; and, finally, walking the beach wheels back up beyond the tide line.

    That's not hurrying: just performing each step in sequence and not having to re-do any steps. Some weeks back a nearby windsurfer volunteered that I had the thing rigged faster than he could rig his windsurfer. (some windsurfers are amazingly slow in their rigging ritual...)

    I'm enjoying (NOT!!!) an enforced 10-week vacation from any physical activity, but when I get back I'm pretty sure I can shave another minute or even two minutes off of that time.
     
  3. upchurchmr
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    upchurchmr Senior Member

    BobBill,

    Thanks for the reference. That sure is a lot of damage, especially if this was a balsa wood cored boat. Balsa rots quickly when it is uncovered as in that damage. Hope you asked who made the boat and the hull number. It is embedded in the transom.

    PeteCress,

    The Tornado does have a pivoting centerboard, removable from the top. It is a very simple setup and functions well. Not really heavy at all.

    Marc
     
  4. PeteCress
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    PeteCress Junior Member

    That being the case, if I were building another Mailbu Outrigger, I'd have to think seriously about replacing the spec'd dag with a Tornado pivoting centerboard/trunk
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2012
  5. BobBill
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    BobBill Senior Member

    Peter, you might be right that it could be longer.

    I figured, 10 min to step the mast and add rudder and unfurl sails, 2 minutes to 5 to unfold the akas/ama...am using current launch time for Kite dinghy as base and I am deliberate.

    Now if there is beer or outboard to add, we have some time left before sliding rig in water... ;]

    Marc. Yes, thought about the rot thing but did not ask yet. Have not received reply to first query. Will inquire. Likely boat has balsa core. Thanks for heads-up. Still, might be able to handle, if not too bad.

    Will see what Matthew says. Am guess boat was damaged two years ago.
     
  6. PeteCress
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    PeteCress Junior Member

    You got it backwards. I was supporting your 20 minutes.

    And, especially if all you have to do is un-fold the akas - instead of lashing them and the pola as I do - I think you could do even better than 20 minutes.

    I could do my Hobie 16 in between 9 and 10 minutes. FWIW, leaving the beach wheels attached when the boat is on the trailer reduces time significantly.
     
  7. BobBill
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    BobBill Senior Member

    Peter, I got it, and added, what I mistakenly thought you implied, that little things might add to that time.

    In theory, launching my wee Kite should take 10 minutes, but I fiddle, and do so willingly, so it might stretch the launch time a bit.

    Last year I hurried one day, and forgot the drain plug. No biggie, but was wondering why the boat seemed to roll a bit and was not its usually very lively sail. Twenty-five gallons or more of water...after an hour or so came as no surprise as to the cause and my not doing the checklist properly.

    It also proved an excellent unplanned safety test to prove how safe that ancient boat happens to be.

    Yep, I am very big on folding akas and have already made a template for the local metal man to make out of SS.

    Need an appropriate hull, however, and the search continues. Not heard back from Mr. Sullivan, although I figured I could stitch the best parts of his hulls and go from there, even removing some decking to offer some in-space.

    Just finished adding some carbon stiffening to one of two windsurfer spars for the Kite's alternative mast. That was learning experience but it seems to have worked out.

    Time to play.
     
  8. PeteCress
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    PeteCress Junior Member

    Are you using Gary's scheme as per "Rolling and Furling" on http://tinyurl.com/btqucab ?
     
  9. BobBill
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    BobBill Senior Member

    Peter, the plan is to have two options, the original MO sail with long yard and boom hanging off a rotating stubby...so simple; and

    a more conventional unstayed cat boat mast, maybe with small, wide-spaced jib tethered to short bowsprit.

    Still have no hull, so all waits until above. Thanks for the link. I missed that material.

    BTW, the hinged akas shown are so similar to what I have in mind, must be essentially the best way to do, save sliding self contained alum tubes, which I have also noted. Thanks. The two pins offer flexibility and sure holding power at sea-most important.

    Folders are low cost and sliding tubes seem more efficient but a bit bulkier, it seems, either tailored to work with tramp or boards or both.
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2012
  10. BobBill
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    BobBill Senior Member

    Peter, I re reviewed the Tornado hull pics, and wondered, if there is rot, would not it be easy to remove and replace with carbon to make whole again? (I really do not like working with carbon, but it is strong.)

    I might have to email Mr. Sullivan again.

    I love the centerboard idea, but the box would have to be 6 feet long, wouldn't it? Maybe one on the hull plus one on the ama would suffice. Interesting. Tornado hulls have both, so may work, letting one be a "remote" free swinging board.
     
  11. upchurchmr
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    upchurchmr Senior Member

    BobBill,

    The Tornado is a sandwich structure. For each skin, there is glass on the outside, balsa wood in the middle, and glass on the inside. To replace the balsa you need to cut off the deck, remove the inside skin, grind out the balsa, then replace the balsa, and the inner skin.
    Then reattach the deck.
    The balsa can be left out, but you then need to double or triple the thickness of the inner skin. You could also replace the balsa with something like cedar, making it the same thickness as the balsa you took out. It will be a little stronger but somewhat heavier.
    If you leave out the balsa the hull weight will increase more than using cedar.

    There is absolutely no reason to use carbon for a repair. What you need is thickness to get the stiffness (the reason for the sandwich core), the glass is plenty strong and a lot cheaper.

    The Tornado centerboard box is about 3.5-4 feet long, not 6. There is a centerboard in each hull, but you seem to be only wanting to use one as the main hull. If you are not going to be using the Tornado sized rig, you don't need anything more than the one centerboard. The Tornado centerboard is relatively large.

    I don't know what you mean by "free swinging board". If a board is not controlled and set in its position it is useless.

    Marc
     
  12. BobBill
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    BobBill Senior Member

    Marc, I understand. Thanks.

    I figured a layer of carbon would be thinner but stiffer. My thought has been to cut the Tornado hulls in three pieces and stitch them together in some way, using bulkheads to reinforce and adding the dreaded carbon where needed, or Git-Rotting them with a glass overlay...but no hulls yet, so all is on hold.

    I figured the dagger board length of the Malibu Outrigger being some 6 feet would have to be duplicated or compensated with the two Tornado boards being used, one in hull and one in ama, the latter sort of swinging on its own...so to speak. I am good at cobbling efficient options when confronted with limits.

    I am just now finishing laying up carbon on a windsurfer carbon (100%) mast and am amazed how stiff it has become, amazed. But it is killing me to work with it...much delayed skin prickles and the newness worries, as I run into variations. I will get over that though.

    My problem has always been a bit of overkill 'cause I do not know the limits of materials and am anal besides.

    Thanks.
     
  13. Doug Lord
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    Doug Lord Flight Ready

    ------------------------------
    BB, what problem do you have working with carbon?
     
  14. PeteCress
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    PeteCress Junior Member

    You're using nitrile gloves, right?

    I wear the gloves and, immediately after finishing for the day, put my clothes in the wash. Long-sleeved shirts and full pants are probably a good idea too - but it's too hot here...
     

  15. BobBill
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    BobBill Senior Member

    Yes. Two pair with carbon.

    I never thought to wash the clothes though. Might work. I was bare armed sanding with mask and carbon still prickling me...after showers with brushes. Should have worn long sleeved...heat and all.
     
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