Make windshield removable for 24’ Express

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by daven911, Jun 28, 2024.

  1. daven911
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    daven911 Junior Member

    I have a 32’ deep garage and the garage door opens to 95” - which is just tall enough to swallow my Limestone 24’ EXC - if I can figure out a way to remove the windshield for storage. The windshield is important me so cannot just remove and live with exposure.
    Maybe corner bracing to keep the “c”shaped form intact, and some for of pull-pin installation and removal system to remove for garage door entry?? Looking for ideas plz. Thx!
    I’ll add a few pics but may need to gather more later today. IMG_6363.jpeg IMG_6352.jpeg IMG_5533.png IMG_5533.png
     
  2. kapnD
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    kapnD Senior Member

    Four pieces hinged at the bottoms to swing out/down?
    The devil would be in the details, separating and solidly rejoining the sections in place would be the challenge.
     
  3. wet feet
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    wet feet Senior Member

    Hinged screens are very common n the Norfolk Broads as the boats need to pass under low bridges.The hardware that locks the sections together needs to be chosen to suit the particular original design and if a change is involved,there may be a need to add some stops in places and some catches to hold it all together.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. daven911
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    daven911 Junior Member

    I like the idea of piano-style hinges at the bottom of each of 4 sections. Thx!!

    I only have a couple inches between the fiberglass - below the windshield - and the garage door so having the windows lay flat will be critical.

    If I do run out if room I could potentially deflate the tires, roll a few feet past the high point, then reinflate while in garage to not ruin the tired. Drastic tho.

    Currently the aluminum framing is well stuck together with minimal air gaps and provides great shelter. I’ll want to retain that with whatever couple mechanism. Perhaps some type of buckle system? Dunno. And what will then pad the aluminum pieces from banging in waves??
    Lots to figured out but a good start! Thx
     
  5. kapnD
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    kapnD Senior Member

    The trailer may lend itself to some mods.
    Smaller rims/tires?
    Axle over springs?
    Grooves in garage floor?
    Raise the door height?
     
  6. wet feet
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    wet feet Senior Member

    If you hinge the various sections,you will need some means of securing them in the raised position.I believe the simplest would be over centre catches to link each section,but it depends on the exact nature of the extrusions.You really,really do not want to find glass when you are trying to add a fastening for a catch.This page may give you some ideas and I believe all the catches on offer can be had in stainless steel-obviously some isolating paste such as Duralac would be needed to keep dissimilar metals apart.CatchBolts & ProLatches | Protex https://protex.com/catchbolts-prolatches
     
  7. fallguy
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    fallguy Boat Builder

    Most likely the existing windshield is on studs. You’ll change from the studs to cleats. The cleats will all be on the inside. As Wet Feet mentions, you don’t want to find glass deep in the frame when you do it. You cannot drill tempered glass.

    The cleats will go on the inside. They will match the profile of the existing windshield. You use an angle finder and make the parts in teak. Attaching the teak to the topside might also be hard, but that is the job. Then you cit off the studs with a grinder and remount the windshield to the cleats.

    If the glass is all the way through, the frame must be glued to the cleats. Then the cleats come off the deck to remove. If so, make them wider and epoxy the nuts to the deck under so removal is all above an one man.

    Also, the use of neoprene under the existing metal frame is probably wise. You cut a thin strip all the way around. It is to avoid squeaking or noise in a removable mounting.

    The cleats need to be about 3/4”x3/4”, but that is an estimate; you’ll size them to fit the deck and angles of the existing frame.
     
  8. daven911
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    daven911 Junior Member

    Thank you (F)all. Will look into cleat design and such.
    By tomorrow I will be removing the window panels to roll her into the garage for the first time. I'm guessing glass removal will be tough. I will start by removing any / all silicone and gap fillers between the panels and deck. Heat gun likely needed. Then I believe I'll be finding the mounts under the headliner and in tight jams for the front screen to remove, then port and starboard after, but that's from intel on a Topaz and perhaps Blackwatch which are kinda similar in age and design. She's a 1988 Limestone EXC with few made and no real documentation anywhere. Thx again.
     
  9. C. Dog
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    C. Dog Senior Member

    Silicone sealants are poor adhesives but great gaskets, unlike polyurethane, which resists removal severely. It will come off fairly easily once you undo everything. A homemade soft plastic or timber scraper (polycarbonate ideal) is handy for removing gunk and decals without harming gel finish. Avoid heat unless you are copping grief, silicone is pretty resistant to high temperatures, with some varieties being used to seal exhaust components.
     
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  10. fallguy
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    fallguy Boat Builder

    Try 3M caulk remover if you have trouble; heat will cause troubles.
     
  11. daven911
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    daven911 Junior Member

    Al Medeiros, who made a bunch of Limestones and Hunt Yachts, under the Medeiros Boat Works brand in Canada emailed me a good tip today on how to remove the windshield...
    "Carefully remove the plastic strip on the outside of the windshield, by the base. Probably brittle. Once the strips are removed, four, you will find the screws holding the windshield to the deck. I believe, the windshield needs to come off as one unit. You cannot take one piece at a time off. Good luck, Al"
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2024
  12. kapnD
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    kapnD Senior Member

    Daven is correct in that the windshield and sidescreens are likely a unit, requiring separation to lay out.
    How about hinges at the back corners? The whole piece could swing 180* back into the cockpit.
     
  13. daven911
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    daven911 Junior Member

    Hinge in cockpit?? Great idea. Will look into it. Doing trailer bearings now for the move. Realized I won’t do window removal until after holiday weekend. So I a bit more study / planning time. Thx
     
  14. wet feet
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    wet feet Senior Member

    You might have a bit of a project to get a pair of hinges with the axes perfectly aligned across the boat,but the concept is feasible.
     

  15. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

    I would build a welded frame and attach it to the bottom. Depending on how you want it to look, it can be inside or outside. Right now, the fiberglass coaming is stiffening the windshield so the frame would take its place. To secure it would have a few bolts secured to inserts in the fiberglass coaming.
     
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