Luan (philiipine mahog0 vs poplar

Hi:

has anyone worked with the US east coast version of what is called 'poplar' -- it is a green to red/yellow 'semi hard wood' that is very cheap and abundant where I am. I have done some preliminary research and test and it looks like it has the same density and about the same modulas of elistisicity as Luan. I suspect it's rot resistence is near non-exsistent but it will be fully encapsulated and seal in epoxy and e-glass for my purpoases. Any input on the stregth and working cahrateriestics of poplar would be greatly appreciated...

 

from http://www.woodbin.com/ref/wood/poplar.htm :

Name Poplar (Populus spp.)

Physical Props Most species are typically soft and light with low ratings for strength, stiffness, shock resistance, decay resistance, and steam bending. Moderate movement in service.

Working Props Works easily with hand or machine tools but sharp edges recommended. Glues, screws and nails well. Staining can be patchy but paints and varnish are easily applied.

Uses Used for furniture framing, interior joinery, toys, turnery, matches, crates, boxes, pallets, packing, plywood core stock, veneer, and pulpwood.

Another source says that it glues well, has low nail-holding ability, does not split easily, and holds paint well.

Also see http://www.windsorplywood.com/nam_hardwoods/yellow_poplar.html
Quote : yellow poplar ranks in the lower third of the range of the following properties: specific gravity, bending strength, toughness, impact resistance, work to maximum load, crushing strength, fiber stress at proportional limit, shear strength, tensile strength and side hardness.


I have not used it for boatbuilding myself, but it seems to me that it would not be a great wood for boatbuilding given its lack of decay resistance and it poor strength to weight ratio. If the epoxy coating is compromised and water pentrates to the wood, it's going to rot.

If you're going to go with a cheap and common wood, you might be somewhat better off with spruce (SPF framing material - you know, the stuff that Home Depot sells) In Mass. it's probably going to be Black or Red Spruce. Like poplar, spruce is not decay resistant, but it does have the virtue of being pretty strong and tough for its weight.

Philipine Mahogany is an enitrely different wood with better decay resistance and fastening holding ability than either of these woods. It's also stronger.

I'm also in Mass (shrewsbury) Where are you located and what are you building?

 

I'm building a 19' strip planked sailboat.
http://www.nwmarinedesign.com/k19.htm

The western red cedar is milled 1/2" thick X 3/4" with bead and cove. I'm wondering about the poplar for the keelson, shear clamp and cleats for the decking.... -- 6 Okoume bulkeads will also be tabbed in place.

 

Long time since the last post . But I'll put my input in any way.
Poplar has beautiful working abilities. Most ,it is a millers dream for .When I remodeled
Old historic homes and The moulds had to be replaced to original Poplar was the choice.
Send in the old profile mould and have a blade ground to match. Learned tons doing this.It is harder than the clearwhite pine . Ding this stuff and your dinged besides C/w
costs a fortune . another benifit of poplar . It is a great paint grade high quality wood.
Does'nt Stain for #@%*& . Come in too greenish . natural color of the wood
Excepts the stain well .....But.....
What was your intended purpose if you are still around .And if so what have you learned thus far ....I'd like to know.

 

I used it to build a kayak. It's very soft and not very shear resistent. It's not recommended for structural parts of a hull. It's great for non-load bearing topside structures.

 

Poplar (populus spp) and the very common eastern Tulip poplar (liriodendron tulipifera) are two different things. I may be mistaken but I seem to recall Robb White makes his famous small craft from tulip poplar.

 

Poplar was used quite a bit as planking material years ago when it was available. The choice stuff was yellow poplar, known for it's rot resistance, finishability and stability. It can be seen on hundreds of old barns and farm houses throughout the mid west.

Sadly it all but gone now. The good yellow old growth and second growth isn't generally available. White poplar is the common stuff now and far inferior to the yellow. I've seen some stuff being sold as yellow, but it's weak, doesn't hold fasteners well, has less rot resistance, but does finish well. The white currently being sold has similar qualities.

 

WWW.hardwood.org It is the best site telling you EVERY GOOD and BAD characteristic of every wood specie. Everybody go there and become a wood expert. Wood is GOOD.

 

I would rather go to a sawmill and find older growth southern yellow pine than use poplar.I hate ash too,rots like hell.Too bad you can't get Juniper(Atlantic White Cedar)Its the best down here in N.C.,though its difficult to find in any length.

 

It's great for painted interior trim on houses etc.
I once installed a poplar raised panel ext. door on a fairly high end new church. We didn't prime it before it saw it's first weather. We had to cut 1/2" off the bottom just to get it to close, that's how much the panels expanded in one exposure to the weather. We cut it several more times during the construction, while waiting for a mahogany replacement. The poplar door was then promptly thrown in the dumpster.