Looking to identify Fiberform Model?

I just purchased this boat a few days ago. It doesn't mention it anywhere on the title and i can't find this model on google images. its a 1973 Fiberform 19ft. inboard engine. Its driving me crazy! hopefully the pictures are good enough! i can get better ones if necessary!

 

See this thread....

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/powerboats/fiberform-motor-cruiser-range-1977-catalogue-51011.html

But it looks like you have a 1900 Offshore.

Also this thread

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/powerboats/fiberform-did-they-even-exist-21757.html

 

Thanks!!looks like this is indeed the closest!!

 

Look here for some more info on fiberform. The closest list of model specs is 1971. http://www.fiberglassics.com/library/Fiberform

or you can post questions at http://www.fiberglassics.com/glassic-forums/categories

 

I’m having the same issue, I thought mine was a 71 fiberfoam but you pictures look identical to my

 

I’m having the same issue, I thought mine was a 71 fiberfoam but your pictures look identical to my boat, Did you find out the make and model number, if you could share this info it would be much appreciated, I also have a 165 inline straight 6.

 

What ever you need to know about the Mercruiser 165 inline six, just ask me. My 18 foot Sea Ray has one. I have had lots of experience with that engine. That's not to say anything bad about it. Mine was 46 years old before it died. They are a good, strong, reliable engine.

 

I do have a question on the inline 6. I got this boat a few months ago, its been neglected and I heard it ran a few years back? Anyways, I’ve been taking my time cleaning it up, it had some condensation so I drained oil and flushed it with a gallon of diesel and drained. Removed the valve cover, cleaned the rockers up, replaced valve cover gasket and reinstalled valve cover. A few days ago I removed the spark plugs, which didn’t look bad and started spraying PB blaster in the cylinders, this was suggested by someone on this forum.
My question: I want to turn the engine by hand a little at a time, do you have a suggestion on how to do this without having to remove the front motor mount?

 

I can't remember exactly how I did that. It was 10 years ago, but I do recall turning it over slowly by hand. I took out all the spark plugs and put oil in the cylinders first like you did with PB blaster. (great stuff, didn't know about it until later) But I do remember that I couldn't find a way to just put a socket wrench on it. Looking at the photos I took, I think what I did was loosen two of the bolts on the bell housing on the front of the pulley, and used a bar between them to lever it. There are four bolts holding it on so loosening two wouldn't hurt anything. My only fear was it would screw up the threads, but then if it wouldn't turn at all, so what? The bolts can be replaced if they get gummed up. If it doesn't turn, nothing lost anyway. Of course first I tightened the belt so it wouldn't slip. It will, if the thing won't turn over. Try it.

By the way, this is just a marinized GM 250. So many of the parts from the GM 250 work. But be careful. On mine one of the first things I noticed was the thermostat housing and the water pump were completely rusted out and totally clogged. A previous owner had used GM 250 parts. Anywhere you have raw water flowing they need to be marine parts. I replaced them. They had also installed a automotive style distributor. I'm surprised they didn't blow themselves up. I had a lot of problems getting it to run smoothly with the regular distributor so I got a Mallory marine electronic distributor from Summit Racing. It solved the problem, but do not use the coil they recommend. It never worked right. When I put the original coil back on it ran perfectly. There are two different carbs for these engines. Mine has the Rochester. It works ok but has a flat spot at about 2000 rpm. It may just be that individual carb. The other is a Holley. I haven't tried that. Both are readily available on the internet from several sources, but they are re-manufactured ones. Couldn't find a new one.

 

Great, thank you some much for taking the time to offer these tips. I will try turning the engine by hand using your suggestions this weekend and report back on how it goes, thanks again!

 

I have the story about restoring my 1972 Sea Ray at Boat Building Projects | 1972 Sea Ray 190 Rebuild http://newboatbuilders.com/pages/SeaRay190.html

 

Wow, lots of great information here that I can use and will refer to as I go. Thank you for sharing this.

 

Hello Ike, sorry for the delay in responding to our last communications, lots more to do than I expected. I Still haven’t turn the engine yet, I’m optimistic and decided to take my time with this, after reading someone’s post here in the forum I decided its best to turn it over manually with a used modified and welded input shaft From the back side with the outdrive removed, currently working on this.
I was hoping you had a suggestion for me on removing this old carpet, this carpet glue is a big pain to remove and I read it might have an asbestos property added on older boats. I plan on just carpeting the floor and epoxy painting the rest, but only if I can remove the residue glue. Thanks for your time. Bill

 

I replaced the whole floor (sole), and glassed it over using epoxy resin. I then carpeted it with a marine carpet I got through Home Depot. But I recently went looking for the same and they don't sell it anymore. I bought a short piece off the internet. I used a waterproof carpet cement. Must have worked, everything is still stuck down. Sounds like you need to find some solvent that will remove the glue. I would wear gloves, long sleeves taped at the wrist, and a respirator. Inconvenient, but you don't want to breath that stuff or get it on your skin.

As for a way to turn over the engine by hand, it isn't easy. I recently had a "new to me" engine installed. It had a regular distributor with points, etc. I replaced it with an electronic distributor which means you have to position the engine at Top Dead Center for cylinder number one, to remove the old and install the new distributor. I watched a lot of youtube videos looking for an easy way to do this. I wouldn't have thought of this myself so I can't take credit for it. Remove the spark plug on cylinder number one. Also remove the wire from the coil to the distributor so it won't start. Using a remote starter switch (or someone at the helm switch) bump the starter while holding your finger over the hole for the plug. As it reaches near the top on the compression cycle you will feel it go poof and push your finger off the hole. I used a hose with threads on the end from my compression tester that screws into the spark plug hole, because I couldn't get my finger far enough into the recess for the spark plug. Now you are nearly at TDC. Check the marks on the pulley and see how they line up with the timing marks. From that point it should be easier to get it right on TDC. I tightened the belt as tight as I could get it , and used a large breaking bar levered between the bolts on the pulley. It would only move a few degrees at a time, and sometimes you had to press on the belt to keep it from slipping. I'm sure a wrench on the flywheel is better but I didn't have that option.

PS: With the electronic ignition that old engine (the "new" one is actually a 77) just hums. No missing, no backfires or stumbles. Sounds like a new new engine)

 

Thanks for the recommendations, I will post how it goes when I have a chance, its been getting hot around here.