liveaboard sailing barge - retirement home

I like it. but I would make the chine panels a bit smaller to improve the floor area, and it will not be as tender when heeled over.

how about a full sharpie hull form? Hershoff had some very nice sailing examples, it would simplify the construction and give you more interior space.

 

you might want to offset the windlass and the anchor locker to opposite sides of the hull. otherwise you have a lot of weight all on one side causing a heeling moment

 

I would steal an idea from Midnight Lace and install a bow well , like an old car rumble seat that can be used as a fwd cockpit underway.

A fine place to cruise from , and handling ground tackle from a well is far safer than dancing on a deck , hoping the low life line might catch you.

 

Any ideas on the interior arrangement?

How about materials-steel,glass,wood?

 

Check out Dutch barge websites, lots of inspiration there.

 

Your design (as is) screams plywood with a thin FRP protection. The flat chines imply flat manufactured material that must have a thickness greater than the minimum you need for strength in steel or FRP. It appears to emphasize low cost simple construction for large volume over sailing performance or stability.

Normally you would consider what you want to carry first, then design the best boat to carry it. You know more about what you want than we do. All I can say is put your water tanks under the floor. You follow Bolger advice on the hull, why stop there? Bolger has many 'vacation home' designs -it was a chapter title in one of his books, and he actually lived in such modest boats for some years.

 

While not as much room, the design remonded me a lot of the AS29, in shape and "twin swing-keels (actually enclosed leeboards)"


http://www.ace.net.au/schooner/as192939.htm

http://www.ace.net.au/schooner/farmer.htm#start

http://www.ace.net.au/schooner/lk.htm

 

Looks like a useful boat.

What make/model/design is it ?

 

I have no idea. It is from one of Chapelles books. I do that one was built.

 

The thing about simple designs, is that they are easier to draw - great practice for the beginner.

 

I really think Tad Roberts has done the job for you Peter, with or without the very usefull pilot house



http://www.tadroberts.ca/services/small-boats/sail/harry226

 

just a quick update

Very nice render, assume it took you a few hours to do that

I am currently reading Buehler's backyard boatbuilding, I have had it for awhile, he goes into lots of good sound building tips. Example 4x2 for a 35ft yacht,, 6x2 frames for a 45ft yacht etc. I have also bought study plans for Triloboat 32x10. They were emailed today, a bit brief at only 8 pages, but good value for only $15.

Generally comments in this thread have been quite complementary, I appreciate that. Yes I know Tad Roberts designs, have studied them quite a bit, have also looked into Bolger AS29 design. Believe it or not, a lot of thought went into the sketches that I did. I prefer 10ft beam over 8ft, as I think this gives more reserve stability. I have narrowed the bottom panel by 10cm each side, though kept the bottom panel width at the stern unchanged. This results in a bit more draught, slightly lower ballast, and slightly less topweight.

The chines dont really compromise internal space, as there areas are used by the galley, setees, head etc. You only need standing headroom in the middle.

Working out how much crown the roof needs is not worked out. Is it 10 inches, is it 6 inches, is it what looks right?

The triloboats file I got today showed longnitudiional stringers under the roof, supported by the occasional bulkhead. I had assumed the roof was supported by lots of curved acrosswise beams, but the triloboats method seems to work. Working out distance between keel and roof is done by addition. 1 inch bottom (approx), 4 inch floor beams, 0.3 inch floor, 6ft 3 headroom (i am 6ft 2 tall), 0.3inch roof. I was going to add another 2 inches so that I could walk under the acrosswise roof beams, but longnitudional stringers saves me 2 inches in height.

all in all its coming along quite well. I have a part time job, so cant spend all my time working on this, but after less than a week, seems to be getting quite good. Additionally there is no rush at present, while a year back I had enough pennies to start building immediately, this is not the case at the moment. Aside, the Zeigers say they spent only 10k for their 'unrefined' scow, I know they are unship like,,, but if they work, if they like them, who is to say they are doing it wrong. 10k (or 20 or 30 is not daunting), whereas 90 or 100k is another thing altogether

 

Keep us updated as you progress

Nice work so far Peter, keep us updated as you progress, one question might be worth asking is do you want a sailing capacity or would no sails and just motor be a better option?. Not sure how the costs bear out, it would depend on the "mileage", initial costs of sails, rigging and if you already have a motor planned.:?:

 

hello

Most comments have been complimentary. Why sailing, well Junk sails are pretty cheap, unstayed mast etc, low tech fabric, not essential to be super fast or point super high. I think sailing is good for the psychology, do you need it? no, but it is nice to do every now and then.

I was looking at anchor windlasses. do you have any idea how much they cost? For a large boat you are looking at $1500, for what a staineless steel winch with a drum with depressions in it to take the chain? Better off buying second hand, or making something out of mild steel and covering it with tonnes of grease. Its almost worth buying an old 10K sailboat, pull out a chainsaw and use all the fittings, motor, winches, sails, lead ballast, depth sounder, gps, compass, stove, barometer. Then turn the boat into rubbish, the cost of fittings is amazing,,, ouch. Anyway, I am 43 and I have 20 years to go before I retire.

Anyway, I had another go at some more drawings, I reduced the bottom panel width forward a bit (for better of for worse). To relocate to say Tasmania for a three months in the warm summer, you need a sound boat that will survive reasonably bad weather, choosing your weather window carefully of course.

some updated pics,,, need to do interior layout, rig description, and framing details,

 

Take a look at Jay Benford's sailing dories. He has designs from 26 feet to 37 1/2 feet, and his websites has specs and thumbnail images of the plans for each. http://benford.us/dories/ Study plans and bid plans are available at very reasonable prices. http://benford.us/lists.html

Anne Hill has written about crossing oceans and sailing over 100,000 miles in the 34' Badger: http://www.tillerbooks.com/navCruising_Books.php

Building Badger is a book about building the Badger design. http://www.tillerbooks.com/navDesigns_And_Designers.php