Lining Material alternatives

[perry2222]

I have recently bought a 1om old-ish GRP cat, the interior of which is pretty rough layup. Theres no flow coat. So I am wondering/musing if there might be any suggestions for a cost efficient material to 'stick on' it.
In s0me places, like the pilot house, its all flat surfaces and I might line it with some very light treated ply, but I don't want to do this everywhere. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Blueknarr]

Production boats are often lined0 with a padded vinyl cloth. It is adhered with spray glue.

 

[perry2222]

Thanks BK, thats the solution of last resort. I was hoping someone knew more than I did. It's not hard

 

[Blueknarr]

Other trick is to glue strips of wood into the corners and stretch-n- staple upulstry fabric of choice.

 

[perry2222]

Other trick is to glue strips of wood into the corners and stretch-n- staple upulstry fabric of choice.

thats not a bad idea. Love dies and glue fails. I guess it could be made to come off to take it out and wash it once in a while.

 

[brendan gardam]

headliner carpet. its light weight and made for lining boat cabins and ceilings. it stops condensation too.

 

[fallguy]

I am sort of settled on 3mm okume for headliner with furring strips.

Komatex is soft and dents easily, but could work for higher areas.

I think the padded vinyl idea sounds great for my fisherman bunks.

 

[brendan gardam]

Headliner carpet is the way to go. Anything with a hard surface makes condensation .very annoying when you wake up to drips off the ceiling .

 

[fallguy]

Headliner carpet is the way to go. Anything with a hard surface makes condensation .very annoying when you wake up to drips off the ceiling .

Can you link to such a product? My fisherman cabins are small and unheated. Might need it.

 

[brendan gardam]

google DLT UPHOLSTERY SUPPLY and type in hull liner. their copyright won't let me paste a link.

 

[perry2222]

One of the reasons I am not enthusiastic about headliner is that, imho, those spray on glues aren't a very long term solution. However, I have a mate who is a leather worker who uses a product called N100 Adhesive.
https://www.chemtech.com.au/pdf/Bondtech N100 TDS.pdf
He likes to heat activate it, with a bar/strip heater, but you might use a heat gun at least on one of the materials. He also says its better if you can hammer the two materials together. So if you use it from lets say a small cup and brush it on that cup/container/jar really needs to be covered . Of course its poisonous smelling but odour dissipates.