Change From I/o To Out

Guys I Am New To The Boating Thing
I Have A 1972 19' Mercruiser With 351w All The Motor And The Outside Parts Have Been Removed.

How Do I Patch The Hole Where The Outside Parts Went?

What Hp Do I Need? I Dont Care How Fast It Goes I Just Need It To Go From Point A To Point B Just To Fish.

I Do Not Want To Put A Bracket On It So Cant I Just Cut The Back Area Where It Will Mount To Tilt The Motor Out Of The Water?

How Hard Is It To Attached The Steering Parts To The Outboard?

Can I Attached The Same Hydraulic System For The Tilting?

HOW FAR DOWN OR UP DO I NEED TO MOUNT THE OUTBOARD AND HOW MUCH DO I NEED TO CUT OUT FOR THE TILTING OF THE OUTBOARD?

 

Outboards come in 20" and 25" shaft lengths. Your antiventillation plate will be level with the bottom of the hull.

Outboard boats have transom knees that strengthen the transom and usually connect the transom to the stringers.

Without a transom bracket, an outboard well is also advisable to allow the outboard to tilt up while preventing the boat from flooding in bad conditions.

 

THANK YOU .. I WAS READING WHERE I MIGHT HAVE TO USE setback bracket TO MOUNT THE OUTBOARD...... SO YOU ARE SAYING THE OUT BOARD WILL MOUNT WITH OUT ANY BRACKETS ADDED AND IT WILL HAVE PLENTY OF ROOM TO TILT WITH OUT CUTTING THE TRANSOM?
WHAT HP MOTOR DO YOU THINK I NEED I WAS TOLD A 20 TO 25 HP WILL WORK JUST TO GO FISHING WITH

 

No syngledad36, that is a misunderstanding. The current transom must be cut to accommodate an outboard and an outboard well must be added to make room for the tilted engine. It will also add strength to the otherwise unsupported center of the transom and prevent water sloshing over it into your boat when you back up.

The stern drive mounting hole can be closed with two sandwiched metal plates, 6 bolts and Sikaflex or 3M sealant.
You can use the steering cable for your outboard, but the hydraulic pump cannot serve any purpose.

 

set it back and reap the benifits !! its worth doing !!

my choice is to use a 25 inch outboard with a bracket for set back 18 inchs maybe should be ok so you just need to beef up the transom inside to take all the extra leverage on everything !!
no well to worry about
no cutting down the transome height !!
there are some benefits that you will get from the step back !!
More room in the cockpit to fish from .
the steering will be more responsive ,
The power trim works better
and you will get a little more speed than a transom hung set up .
Is best to use hydralic steering and scrap the other one totally what ever you have now !!
its easy to install !!,is finger light to turn and its heaven !!

The motor set up height to the underside of the plate could be 25mm to 30mm higher than the bottom line of the hull !!
Motor size to replace the old one get a 200 hp yamaha 25 inch shaft !!!
best move you will ever do !! i promiss!!

 

Without knowing what this boat is, I'd be inclined to agree that the set back pod would be easier to execute. Either way, it is not a job for a neophyte.

 

You better be sitting down when you price an outboard big enough to replace that 351.

 

Being a 1972 boat, likely in need of lots of work. Be difficult to justify an expensive new motor for an oldie like that. Key is how far it is from point A to point B, ( as mentioned above) if it is only a mile or three, get a 9.9 hp and happy fishing !

 

Welcome to the forum Single.

Transom thicknesses are based on the HP rating of the outboard expected. This can range from 3/4" for a little 10 HP kicker to 2.5" for a big ***, high HP outboard. A splash well is required and this usually offers the additional support necessary to get the torque transferred to the boat's bottom. Outboards are available in standard shaft (15"), long shaft (20") and extra long (25") shaft lengths. The two longer shafts are recommend, because they offer more protection from swamping and require less of a cutout on the transom.

The holes can be filled with standard 'glassing techniques. The splash well and other attachments are also fairly standardized, including the transom rake, which is typically about 12 - 15 degrees.

As has been mentioned, this is major surgery and not a project for a novice, though many have preformed it. If you're reasonably handy, you can do it. If hanging a new cabinet in your kitchen isn't something you'd attempt, don't even think about this project.

What boat is this (year. make and model)? What HP did you have with the Windsor (200 - 230 HP would be typical)? A 19', 200 HP I/O setup, assuming about 3,000 pounds with a beer cooler, Fidel the wonder dog, the ex-wife and kids as crew, will get the boat into the mid 30 MPH range (conservatively). You can drop down to about 100 HP and still have low to mid 20 MPH abilities, but I wouldn't go much lower than this, unless you'll be going solo a lot. I'll bet the boat is rated for 70 - 250 HP. 70 will mean under a full load, she might not get on plane, so 90 - 100 HP would be a wise choice to offer some ability to punch through chop and contrary currents, etc. A new 100 HP outboard will cost several thousand bucks, but you can find good used ones, for much less.

As to installation, I'd hang it on the transom myself. Brackets are expensive and require the same reinforcement as a transom hung engine, so why make more work for yourself. A 100 HP transom should be a minimum of 1.5" thick, preferably 1.75" to 2" thick. Build up plywood, of course bonded and well tabbed to the hull shell, to get this thickness. Sheath in 'glass to protect it, then hang the outboard. Some 1/2" plywood, also bonded and tabbed to the hull shell, will make up the 3 sided splash well and reinforce the transom too.

 

thank you all .... the boat is a 1972 caravelle tri-hull mercruiser and the transom is 2'' thick. there will be 2-4 guys out on the boat fishing from time to time. PRA I do home improvement for a living so a kitchen cab. is nothing for me to do lol... where the out board will be placed I have a fiberglass realing over it and don't think the out board will hange on it so im thinking that will have to me cut out the way....


http://s1281.photobucket.com/user/syngledad36/media/Snapbucket/C334C511-orig_zpsabe76629.jpg.html

 

A boat of that age usually is in need of a transom core replacement, not to mention the soles and stringers too.

Check the condition of the plywood transom core, the soles and the stringers, as there's no sense putting on an engine if the boat can't tolerate it.

 

every thing is good on the boat.. the old owner took very good care of it... just the old motor locked up on me.... no rot anywhere

 

Let us assume that the outdrive unit is OK . If so it will cost much less to replace the engine that was in the boat originally. You will also avoid all the work and problems with "re-designing" the boat.

Rebuilding the old engine may also be an option that is even less expensive. Look around the internet for marine engine rebuilders. There may be one in your area.

 

If you get a 351 long block locally, you can pay about $1,500, fully machined with new parts and seals. Bolt your stuff on and away you go. A Ford built 351 can be as cheap as a few grand, though typically are about 4 or a well established national engine builder (like BluePrint) might charge a few hundred to a grand less for the same engine.

 

when I bought the boat the motor ran and like a dumb a$$ I took the dip stick out and never put it back in for like months and months and it was full of water in the oil pan so now the motor is froze up... I am now looking at how to un seize it and see if its going to work