Liftingkeel

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by Richard Larsson, Sep 13, 2007.

  1. Richard Larsson
    Joined: Sep 2007
    Posts: 3
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    Location: Sweden

    Richard Larsson New Member

    Am i olone of needing a keel that have following skills?

    The ballast have to be in a low position and have a big wheight. (2,2m under waterline/1000kg)
    The keelblade must have low drag/resistance. (a thin blade)
    The keel can´t take place more than 0,8m in the boat.
    The construction can´t break when i go aground. (in 5 knots)
    The keel have to be lifted high. (1,2m under waterline)

    :rolleyes:

    I need it for my First 30E
     
  2. DanishBagger
    Joined: Feb 2006
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    Location: Denmark

    DanishBagger Never Again

    Sounds like you lost the keel, or that it broke when you ran aground!?
     
  3. Richard Larsson
    Joined: Sep 2007
    Posts: 3
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Sweden

    Richard Larsson New Member

    I just want to have a boat with better speed, nicer handling and more possibilities to use it.
     

  4. keith66
    Joined: Sep 2007
    Posts: 346
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    Location: Essex UK

    keith66 Senior Member

    Have a look at the Anderson 22 website run by Andy Lawson, the Anderson 22 was designed by Oliver lee in the 1970's as a production cruiser racer and has an unrivaled reputation for speed and seaworthiness, it has a vertically lifting fin of 3/4 steel plate with an 850ld cast iron bulb on the end, the bulb is veed on its upper surface to fit the hull and gives a substantial end plate effect with the keel down. The design uses a simple trailer winch and purchase system to raise the keel. I rebuilt one recently and along with all who have sailed one reckon they are one of the best small cruising yachts ever designed
     
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