Layup schedule help

Please re-read my post. Also, re-read your post #53

 

Draft is loaded displacement draft.

Looks like I got this wrong. I read now that depth is from the top of keel to bottom of deck. But that seems rather obscure. The post following by RX also says from baseline top of keel to bottom of deck.

It would make more sense if everything was measured from the WL if you ask me.

 

In general, the draft (draught) is measured from the waterline to the deepest LOWER part of the keel. This is to know the shallowest water the vessel can navigate. In some boat design, the keel is deepest towards the transom. For submarine, it is called the keel depth, the distance of the keel from the waterline. If it is submerged, the keel depth is greater than the depth of the hull.

When designing, an average or baseline or reference line is established using the UPPERMOST part of the keel. Thus "
Moulded Draft: Measured from the base line to the summer load line at the midship section.
Moulded Depth: Measured from the base line to the heel of the upper deck beam at the ship’s side amidships."

Using the IMO resolution as guideline:
"
Moulded Depth
Moulded depth is the vertical distance measured from the top of the keel to the top of the freeboard deck beam at side. In wood and composite ships, the distance is measured from the lower edge of the keel rabbet. Where the form at the lower part of the midship section is of a hollow character, or where thick garboards are fitted, the distance is measured from the point where the line of the flat of the bottom continued inwards cuts the side of the keel. In ships having rounded gunwales, the moulded depth should be measured to the point of intersection of the moulded lines of the deck and side shell plating, the lines extending as though the gunwale were of angular design. Where the freeboard deck is stepped and the raised part of the deck extends over the point at which the moulded depth is to be determined, the moulded depth should be measured to a line of reference extending from the lower part of the deck along a line parallel with the raised part.

Source: IMO resolution MSC.267(85), International Code on Intact Stability, 2008 (2008 IS Code), 4 December 2008, International Maritime Organization. Regulatory Guidance

Source: IMO Resolution MSC.267(85), adoption of the International Code on Intact Stability, 2008 (2008 IS Code), 4 December 2008, International Maritime Organization."

Here we see the word "moulded". In ships, this changes to inside (of the plating) dimensions.

"The Beam is usually quoted at amidships and is most commonly quoted as the Moulded Beam which is the greatest distance between the two sides of the ship at its greatest width of the chosen section, as shown on Figure 2 above. The measurement is usually done between the INSIDE of the ship’s plating. Except for the Moulded Beam there is also the Breadth Extreme which is measured to the outside of the ship’s plating but and it may also take into account any overhangs or flare.

The ship’s Depth, as displayed on Figure 2 varies along its length but is usually quoted for amidships. It can also be quoted Moulded Depth, which is from the UNDERSIDE of the deck plating."

 

I misunderstood what measurement depth was I think. Is this the height of the hull up to the deck?

 

This is an Ed Horstman 27-9. Ed Horstman Designs http://www.edhorstmanmultihulldesigns.com/triplans/tri27.php

 

Ok, you want to eliminate the mat in a certain schedule. Could you specify the original composition of the schedule you wish to modify?. Please specify the outer layers and the inner layers.

 

Sure, looking to eliminate the mat in the dbm and the outer layer (1)
1. Mat 1.5
2. 1715 dbm
3. .625/16mm pvc
4. 1715 dbm

 

From the point of view of the strength of a panel so constituted, you have no problem in eliminating the MAT 1.5. However, from the aesthetic point of view it can be a problem.

 

Gelcoat or 2 part paint after?

Epoxy brand and hardener?

 

The construction method is a male mold so I was going to use paint. Looking at pro set epoxy.

 

Just follow any requirements for post cure.

I am finishing my boat same way. Post cure was required for S3 xslow hardener. 2 hours at 140F.

Fairing with quikfair a final pass after bake.

Then 2 pack paint over interpotect 2000.

We'll be fine, you and me, but for deep scratches.

Not sure exactly to what aesthetic tansl refers. This board has become the forum of partial answers and chippiness lately.

It is a festive, holiday season!

 

I do not know I will be able to express myself in a way that you can understand me. If the outer layer is a strong fabric, the printout of the fabric will be seen from the outside. That, normally, is avoided by putting 2 or 3 layers of mat on the outside.

 

In lieu of the mat couldn't I use a light cloth like a 4 or 6 oz? I see that listed as a surfacing veil to prevent print through.

 

Fallguy do you have a build you are documenting?

 

Tansl the layup also calls for the mat on the cloth as well .. 17 oz dbm with a 1.5 oz mat. Can I substitute a 17 oz dbm with no mat?