Layup schedule help and introduction

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by Husk, Apr 5, 2017.

  1. Husk
    Joined: Jan 2017
    Posts: 3
    Likes: 0, Points: 1, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Northbay, CA

    Husk New Member

    Hello Everyone,
    What a great forum this is, filled with a vast amount of knowledge! I am grateful for everyone that has contributed.

    I have very limited experience working with fiberglass. I have done some minor repairs, but never anything layed up in a mold. With that said, I am a fairly capable person.

    My project is an extend swim platform for my boat, a Cobalt 293. I have based the design off of my previous boat because I like the aesthetics of it. The dimension of the fiberglass portion of the platform will be 87” wide x 22” deep and an approximate thickness of 1.625”. It will be supported off the transom of the boat at two mounting points approximately 66” apart from each other. Around the outside of the platform will be a stainless rub rail that is made of 1.875” stainless round tube. I have made the stainless rub rail and the mold for the fiberglass platform is in process. I am at a point where I need to determine a layup schedule and coring material. I believe I am going to use a balsa core because it sound like it is the most forgiving material for beginners. I also have ruled out using epoxy resin for the layup because of the cost associated with it. So now I am on the fence if I should use a vinyl ester or polyester resin. I know vinyl ester is a superior product; but, for what I am doing does it make since for the added costs? The boat is sits on a trailer majority of the time. I am attaching a picture of the design inspiration, platform layout dimensions, and how it will be mounted to the boat.

    Here is a layup schedule that I came up with; but, I really have no idea if it is sufficient or if it is overkill.
    2 coats parting film
    2 coats gel coat
    1 layer .75oz veil
    2 layers 2oz CSM
    1 layer 24oz woven roving
    1 layer 2oz CSM
    Baltek SB Contourkore- 1”
    1 layer 2oz CSM
    24oz woven roving
    Fiberglass mat
    24 oz woven roving
    Fiberglass Mat
    2 coats gel coat

    I would appreciate any input into the coring material and glass schedule I am thinking. I am open to any suggestions that will make the end project turn out better.

    Thank you
     

    Attached Files:

  2. jorgepease
    Joined: Feb 2012
    Posts: 1,614
    Likes: 47, Points: 48, Legacy Rep: 75
    Location: Florida

    jorgepease Senior Member

    sounds complicated, why not just use some 1.5 in coosa board with the 12 oz glass on both sides. Fair it and paint. That is going to be way stiff enough!
     
  3. Husk
    Joined: Jan 2017
    Posts: 3
    Likes: 0, Points: 1, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Northbay, CA

    Husk New Member

    Hey Jorgepease, thank you for the reply!

    I don't know why I don't just do that. Could it really be that easy? Thank you.

    Mark
     
  4. jorgepease
    Joined: Feb 2012
    Posts: 1,614
    Likes: 47, Points: 48, Legacy Rep: 75
    Location: Florida

    jorgepease Senior Member

    Yes it is, I did a sag test with 3/4 corecell or coosa and 36 oz glass each side. Over a span of 54 inches I got about 1/8 in of bend with me 178 lbs standing in the middle. If you use 1.5 inch coosa with some glass on each side it will be plenty strong enough!!

    Take it one step further and add some seadeck material and then your paint job doesn't even have to be great ))
     
  5. ondarvr
    Joined: Dec 2005
    Posts: 2,329
    Likes: 259, Points: 83, Legacy Rep: 506
    Location: Monroe WA

    ondarvr Senior Member

    Don't use balsa.

    No need for surface vail.

    1.5 oz CSM

    24 oz roving will work, so will other styles.

    Use the same layup on both sides of the core.
     

  6. Husk
    Joined: Jan 2017
    Posts: 3
    Likes: 0, Points: 1, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Northbay, CA

    Husk New Member

    Good evening Ondarvr,

    what do you suggest to use instead of Balsa? I supposed that is because it is prone to water damage? I just saw Coosa bluewater 26 and am now considering that instead. Thoughts?

    Thank you.
     
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