Trying to refresh a fiberglass drifter...

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by zephynator, Aug 19, 2010.

  1. zephynator
    Joined: Aug 2010
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    Location: Oregon

    zephynator New Member

    OK, I have looked and looked, and I am all googled out. I am hoping someone here can help me understand, in very simple terms what the individual layers are that make up the outer and inner hull of my boat, and how I can refresh them to make the boat durable over time.

    Here it is, One 14' Lavro Lazy Drifter:

    Mike's Driftboat Rescue Project (link to pictures)

    Chines are a bit worn down, with some trailer rash, and lots of oxidization of the outer hull. When you drag your hand over it, you come away with a white chalky residue. Gunnels are a bit crackly and weak. Some of the chop-gun application at the knee-brace and the rest of the interior is flaking off, and the seats need lots of help.

    Fiberglass layup for most of the interior, and even the chines seems pretty straight forward. Use some filler in the epoxy to catch all the little gouges here and there, and then sand it all down. Here is where we come to my question.

    For a drift boat, what is the best way to finish the exterior hull? I can't seem to find a straight answer. Can someone please help me develop a list from outside to inside of what all the things are that should make up the hull? For example, from what I have read so far, it seems like it should be something like:

    (from outside to inside)

    12 coats of varnish|marine paint|4-5mil of epoxy|fiberglass|maybe some plywood in there?|fiberglass|interior paint|more varnish?


    Does this make sense? I really want to get started on this but don't know where to begin. I know it needs a sand job, and lay up the chines. But from there I am lost! Please help!

    Thanks in advance!
     
  2. tinhorn
    Joined: Jan 2008
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    Location: Massachusetts South Shore.

    tinhorn Senior Member

    I don't know why you'd want to apply varnish or paint to the outside--just lightly wetsand the gelcoat if it's dull, and polish it. (I use 220, then 400, then 600 or 1000 grit sandpaper followed by Meguire's polish and wax.) I wouldn't paint epoxy on it, either.

    If you have some deep scratches, clean them well and wipe them with acetone or rubbing alcohol. Make a putty out of white gelcoat and Cabosil, then catalyze the putty and use it to fill the scratches.

    The Lavros look like cute boats, and they sound very rugged. Good luck on your project.
     
  3. zephynator
    Joined: Aug 2010
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    Location: Oregon

    zephynator New Member

    Any ideas on how to treat the chines and trailer rash? As you can see from the pictures in the link on the original post, they are worn down pretty far. No more gel coat there...

    I am still not solid on how to use gelcoat. I was beginning to think it was only applied to the mold in the very beginning. But maybe it could be used as a top-coat after reforming the chines in some way? Thanks for the info!
     

  4. tinhorn
    Joined: Jan 2008
    Posts: 575
    Likes: 20, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 310
    Location: Massachusetts South Shore.

    tinhorn Senior Member

    I can't see any pics when I follow your link, but if the gelcoat has been scraped off, you can fix it with more gelcoat.

    First, make any necessary repairs to the 'glass itself. Make sure you use resin that contains NO wax. (Same thing for the gelcoat you'll be using.) Never try to apply resin or gelcoat to an old surface--you need to grind or sand back to raw material in order to get good adhesion.

    Think of gelcoat as paint for fiberglass. You can spray it into a mold, then lay up the 'glass to create a part, then you can use it to "paint" the back side of the part, too! The problem I have with gelcoat as a topcoat is that if I brush it I get streaks, if I roll it I get a rough finish, if I spray it I get orange peel. (There's a process called tip-and-roll that I've heard about but never investigated.)

    My solution is to apply two layers of gelcoat with a trim roller (very short nap) about two days apart, using maximum catalyst. Then I wetsand it smooth and polish.

    So what's the deal with the chines?
     
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