Building a new sailboat

I have the moulds and tooling for a popular very well designed 30 footer..I am going to start construction..I want to build it light and strong..I don't want to follow the original layup as it was designed for the MORC rule...any suggestions..?

 

I don't think anyone in this forum can, will or should offer any suggestions regarding a layup schedule. You should speak with a naval architect. There are many variables involved here.

I do not mean to come off harsh. Can you imagine what would happen if you built a boat based on a recommendation received here, the boat sank and there was a loss of life? Do yourself a favor, spend a few bucks and do it correctly right from the start.

 

well you are entitled to your opinion..thanks..but what is the point of having a forum called FIBREGLASS AND COMPOSITE BOAT BUILDING if know one wants to offer suggestions...

 

I don't want to get into a pissing match with you. I am just trying to offer sound advice. You asked for a suggestion, and I gave you one.

As I had stated previously, there are many variables involved before anyone could give you the slightest advice as to what the layup schedule should be. For example, the shape of the hull, the target weight of the boat, the sail area of the boat, the shape and weight of the keel, type of rudder. These are just the beginning. What type of resin are you plan on using, are you going to core the hull, and if so, what core.

I am not trying to discourage you. Again, just do it right. Speak with a marine architect. Give Dave Gerr a call. He is located in Manhattan, NY. He is very approachable.

 

Fantastic suggestion

Custom 30, getting an NA is a fantastic suggestion- they save you time & $ in setting out a build & layup sced that is engineered to cope with the loads of keels, shrouds etc, that means you build faster, lighter etc & don't have to make any guesses on layup. Responses on this section of forum are often by tradies, techs, slushies experinced in the application & use of composites, whilst that may make them excellent practical engineers it don't make em professeional engineers like a qualified NA.You gotta start right to finish right & that means getting good design information.Regards from Jeff

 

eagle is right ,,,,,what if I tell you Im a na,,or designer,,,im not ,im just a old fisherman taking forever to build my boat,,,,longliner

 

I'd be more then happy to offer a laminate schedule, but have no idea what you have or want, which tends to make things imposable. A laminate is an engineered structure, requiring a reasonable understanding of the properties and stresses involved in the materials and vessel.

Contact me through email and we can iron out your concerns.

 

I will post the layup schedule I have at the moment its rougly 8-10 yrs old...i want to up date it . As i have said the boat was built to the MORC rule originally which means it is heavier than needed..I want it just as well built just lighter.
thanks

 

this is the boat

 

It doesn't look to heavy

Why do you want to build this boat?
Is it for racing? Under what rules?
What's wrong with MORC? I searched about it and it's still active(?)

Why does MORC mean heavy?
The Olson 30 sailed under MORC and is quite light,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olson_30

 

Just as strong but lighter?
If you don't mean sandwich, use a stronger laminate (resin and fibres).
DNVs rules for grp use a formula like
New thickness = Old thickness x (Old tensile strength / New tensile strength) ^0.5
So, if you test your new laminate and find it's twice as strong, you can reduce thickness by 30%.

 

Maybe an interesting article for you in the last Professional Boatbuilder, February/March 2007, page 32 "By the book",
http://www.proboat-digital.com/proboat/20070203/

 

all of these boats are being currently updated..keels and rudders. the boats originally weighed in at close to 8000 pounds..they were designed around MORC and pushed the envelope for taking advantage of the rule itself. MORC is pretty much dead on the great lakes and I/We will be sailing the PHRF rule.

 

I will also try to have the laminate schedule that is currently used..once that is shown is it possibel to perhaps have it tweaked. I guess what i am asking is there somthing better out there to come up with the same toughness but only lighter ?

 

You should discuss this with a designer in your area,
but,
with single skin you can go lighter with better (more expensive) resin and fibre, you need to test the resulting strength and stiffness with the old and new layup,
with sandwich you can probably save more weight, at a cost,
with more frames and stringers or other stiffeners you can use a thinner skin.