1979 Kencraft Restore

All,

For the past months I have demoed a 1979 22’ Kencraft and started to rebuild. I used 3/4” AB marine plywood for stringers, bulkheads, and transom. I’m ready to fiberglass everything in but want to see if I need to add anything else to the stringer/bulkheads or do different. I plan to use 1708 for fiberglass with west systems epoxy. Does anyone have recommendations on tabbing? I plan to use a 6” tab (3” on hull, 3” on stringer/bulkhead) and a 12” tab (6” on hull, 6” on stringer/bulkhead) over that. Thanks!

 

Tab long piece first. Better quality. Less air entrainment. Easier, more professional. Fiberglass strength is in thickness, not shingle effect.

Anywhere you plan to to up and over needs radius 3/8 or so.

Is the tunnel new? Need more than two layers glass there.

 

Thanks for the reply fallguy. The tunnel is “halfway” existing. The boat was originally a well boat with the small tunnel and I cut the existing transom and extended the tunnel to make it a stern mount

 

Also, you ought to consider limbers. Everyone pretends it'll be a dry boat, but planning for water leak is best. The way I'd do it is limber the entire thing. Then after stringers, before you foam, lay plastic over something that will allow water to flow through the limbers to a dry sump well in the back. Close the well and leave a viewport with acrylic bonded in or screwed into a gasket. This way, you are always sure no leaks have developed. Basically a dry boat that can handle a leak. Right now, a leak would go where?

 

Why does the transom look square or flat at the end of the tunnel? You can't leave that big void or is more planned or a camera trick? The bottom work should be done first only cuz it is lighter now..

 

I see a bunch of places that need radiuses. I do like the lines of the boat, so it'll be nice when done,