Katie-J´s refit

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by voodoochile, Jan 14, 2023.

  1. voodoochile
    Joined: Nov 2009
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    voodoochile Junior Member

    V berth cabinetry
    stb side
    note the PVC pipe which will act as ducting for power, signal and water lines
    pvc pipe fitted.jpeg
    patterning for fore aft wall.jpeg
    rough fit and drawing the openings.jpeg
    reinforcemen lams.jpeg

    stb side fwd locker
    locker lid arrangement.jpeg

    floor piece
    in the end i ended up prioritizing confort over small storage unit. i think its better to have the tallest headroom possible in a place fit for a hobbit to start with
    wall and floor lams.jpeg

    port side
    tabbing fore aft port wall.jpeg
    storage port side wall.jpeg
     
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  2. voodoochile
    Joined: Nov 2009
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    voodoochile Junior Member

    galley cabinetry

    box mould.jpeg
    box mould.jpeg
    hacks.jpeg
    storage lamination.jpeg
    laminating the moulds.jpeg
    before cutting the opening.jpeg
    the idea works!!.jpeg

    final position on the boat (the wall wasnt given the storage, this was a prior rough fit)
    galley view.jpeg
     

    Attached Files:

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  3. voodoochile
    Joined: Nov 2009
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    voodoochile Junior Member

    new cockpit lockers
    this model despite its cruising capabilities (which are great by the way for the boat it is) was designed as a daysailer, weekender at most, so storage aint something the original design pays attention to.
    the cockpit is yet another area where space needs to be created to properly house equipment
    port locker lid before.jpeg
    port locker lid after.jpeg
    cutting the sheet locker lid.jpeg
    sheet locker open.jpeg
    this will be a sheet locker built on the frame of the cockpit locker itself, it will self drain to the cockpit once finished.

    leaving it ti cure.jpeg
    both cockpit locker lids
     
  4. voodoochile
    Joined: Nov 2009
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    voodoochile Junior Member

    in my quest to maximize storage and ergonomics i decided i needed to lower the cockpit floor. i will build a rigid bimini and ideally i want to have standing head room. at 5' 7" its not that difficult to achieve.
    so i had to cut the whole cockpit floor piece
    before cutting the floor piece.jpeg after cutting the cockpit floor.jpeg
    cockpit floor before grinding.jpeg cockpit floor after grinding.jpeg

    this was a rough fit at 70mm below the original height. this ended up to be number i was looking for as it always enable me to keep tha majority of the under cockpit unclaimed space.
    dry fit at 70 mm outside.jpeg dry fit at 70 mm in.jpeg

    templating the partitions for the under cockpit storage lockers
    templating transfering cockpit lockers partitions.jpeg
    dry fit partitions.jpeg
    not the 2 side dray channels, laminated from an oval shape, created by taping 2 pvc pipes, 2 inch diameter and then cut to a J profile shape
    profile for new drain.jpeg

    after curring the hatches.jpeg
    cockpit lockers seen from aft.jpeg
     
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  5. voodoochile
    Joined: Nov 2009
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    voodoochile Junior Member

    solid dodger build
    to build it i first needed to peel the whole cabin top
    before peeling.jpeg
    half way peeling.jpeg
    fully peeled.jpeg

    trying to have a first feel for the volume and shape involved in the making of the dodger
    mocking up dodger 2.jpeg
    mocking up dodger 3.jpeg

    very first anchoring laminations
    dodger main acnhor points 2.jpeg
    dodger main acnhor points.jpeg

    another step towards the intended shape
    gaff tape.jpeg
    fully gaffed.jpeg

    laminating a couple of biax layers to have some structure to it
    peelply removed.jpeg

    demoulded
    demoulded.jpeg

    refitted
    refitted.jpeg

    fairing it and applying peel ply to iron out the surface
    peelply fairing.jpeg
    texture 2.jpeg

    and thats it guys, the is pretty much where i am presently
    nexts steps are to sand the fairing down, tune it some more, laminate from the inside, fair, sand and tune the inside, then strip plank with G10 strips, and laminate until im happy with its strenght, when it doubt laminate some more!
    the cloth im using it biax, 400 gr/m2, 45/45 angle. im also going to use some CSM to help getting some meat on.
     
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  6. voodoochile
    Joined: Nov 2009
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    voodoochile Junior Member

    A question about structural materials.

    i will be replacing the original rudder post with a wound filament fibreglass tube. the original tube was made of steel, glassed at both ends, thus avoiding water ingress and packing nuts ( proven and simple arrangement in my view), the new tube will a fraction of it, glassed only to the bottom, but very robustly reinforced with G10 collars and biax cloth, meaning i will have to install a packing gland/nut.
    my gut tells me to go at least 12mm (1/2 inch) on the wall thickness

    for the bearings i will use a, machined, free spinning, vesconite, or delrin like polymer (something that doesnt absorb water in the long term) for both the bottom (always immersed in water) and top, near the tiller head.

    it would be great hearing from the forum's fibreglass experts about the minimum desired wall thickness of said tube.

    The original rudder shaft was 57 mm OD, i will be increasing it to 60mm or the next upper number being usually manufactured (to make for an easy future replacing situation)

    thanks for any info
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2023
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  7. voodoochile
    Joined: Nov 2009
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    voodoochile Junior Member

    scribbling lines
    getting the window scribbled 2.jpeg getting the window scribbled.jpeg

    before cutting
    before cutting 2.jpeg

    after cutting (from several viewpoints)
    window cut portside.jpeg window cut stern.jpeg window cut. bow.jpeg window cut.jpeg

    uglies to fix (wavy sections)
    uglies to fix.jpeg

    problems with compound curves
    gaps created by twisting over 2 axis upon a short distance.
    im going to patch the gaps as you would patch thru hulls, get the overall shape (a bit oversized for a later trim), and slap layers of cloth together, tightly cinged then use thickneed epoxy to bed and bridge the remaining mm
    problems with compound curves 2.jpeg problems with compound curves.jpeg
     
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  8. voodoochile
    Joined: Nov 2009
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    voodoochile Junior Member

    got around to continue to refit

    main bulkhead works

    before filling some cavities
    main bullkhead before filling voids.jpeg

    after
    filling the voids with G10 pieces.jpeg

    laminating central and portside sections
    laminating the centre of main bulkhead.jpeg

    port side mainbulkhead reinforcing.jpeg

    in the mean time i also received the SS metal pieces i had designed as the reinforcement pieces to counter the mast´s compression force.
    its all 6 mm SS , polished in the visible side
    there is a visible slant on the fwd piece, and also in the aft one, but its quite noticeable in the fwd one. im not going to fix it.
    just going to bridge the gaps with G10 sheets, cloth and thickneed epoxy, which, by squeezing out will make for a flat surfaces, making both surfaces match

    aft metal piece.jpeg

    fwd metal piece note the slanting towards port side.jpeg
     
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  9. voodoochile
    Joined: Nov 2009
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    voodoochile Junior Member

    integral water tank works

    got some pvc pipe to route the cabling from the batteries to the windlass, and to the main switch board.
    i think its a good solution, makes for shorter runs and also hides the cabling

    dry fit and after hole sawing the hole
    hole drilled for pvc pipe.jpeg

    after glassing it in.
    had 3 layers of cloth glassed so far but im going for more. dont want this thing coming apart, having water all over the place and worst: having to build it again!

    electric acess pipe glassed in.jpeg


    glassed some lips where the top lid will be set upon
    everything is filleted and then 2 layers of biax cloth. might be overkill but i try to make stuff that would be load bearing in case a heavy load was dropped (me falling into it for instance)
    filleting the lid supporting lips in place.jpeg

    glassed the aft wall and the inside of the longitudinal wall
    laminating aft wall water tank.jpeg


    laminating inside wall water tank.jpeg
     
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  10. voodoochile
    Joined: Nov 2009
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    voodoochile Junior Member

    cockpit floor works

    gor started on making the lids for the openings i cut out previsouly
    cut some strips with a grinder and put everything together with tape, filleted and glass over it

    gaf tape G10 pieces in situ.jpeg

    starting the new lids of the cockpit floor.jpeg
     
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  11. voodoochile
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    voodoochile Junior Member

    other laminations

    laminated both bunks to the hull (only STB is depicted)

    another vire stb bunk lamination.jpeg

    another view from stb bunk lam. note the "shield" piece installed to make the bunk watertight and create space on the inside to install/remove the transducer
    laminating stb bunk storage woth shield install.jpeg

    V berth cabinetry reinforcements
    reinforcing port side cabinetry.jpeg
     
  12. voodoochile
    Joined: Nov 2009
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    voodoochile Junior Member

    some morw work got done in the meantime

    i glassed in the under cockpit floor partitions, making ready to reglass the floor in the near future
    cockpit floor partitions.jpeg

    reinforced the aft water tank wall and centre cockpit lockers walls with a couple of lams
    cockpit floor partitions.jpeg

    and scribbled the lines for the diesel tank lid
    fuel tank lines.jpeg
     

    Attached Files:

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  13. voodoochile
    Joined: Nov 2009
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    voodoochile Junior Member

    got to cut the water tank lids to be glassed in the future also
    aft lid
    this is after i realized upon templating that a full piece wouldnt be able to fit.
    will be glassing a small lip to the underside of the fwd exposed edge to have something for the fwd lid to rest upon.
    water tank lid aft.jpeg

    both lids on
    both lids.jpeg
     
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  14. voodoochile
    Joined: Nov 2009
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    voodoochile Junior Member

    cockpit floor hatches
    prepped the floor piece by taping it with pvc tape as a release agent
    used the original cutout pieces, cut the cloth strips and laminated it along the edges. applied a bead of thickened epoxy just before the cloth so it would fill cavities and help rounding the corners
    before demoulding.jpeg

    small lid demoulded
    you can see the excess thickened epoxy coming out, pretty easy to chisel out and finger sand
    i will laminate more layers to beef it up, this was just to gain a stable surface for that
    demoulding cockpit floor small lid.jpeg

    big lid
    big cockpit floor lid.jpeg
     
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  15. voodoochile
    Joined: Nov 2009
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    voodoochile Junior Member

    building the port and centre B berth lockers

    decided to make it in one single piece. and this time it actually worked without incidents
    templating port center locker.jpeg

    transfered the shape onto 3mm G10
    bit of waste there, but thats life
    trasnferign to G10.jpeg

    final shape
    lid cut.jpeg

    so i took this to the boat, dry fitted and imposed the composting toilet footprint on it, (in its stored position) (thats the plywwod shape you see) to have a feel for the space available.
    composting toilet in.jpeg

    it became apparent i could take storage "real estate" fwd of the toilet.
    which meant a extra partition was need to separate them.
    templating
    templating partition.jpeg

    Cut G10 piece
    fwd partition.jpeg

    a view on the storage size. pretty decent.
    fwd storage unit.jpeg

    "final" look with the lids cut out
    port and center locker.jpeg
     
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