Kangaroo Island 26 foot trimaran identification

Skullduggerydave

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Kangaroo Island 26 foot trimaran identification .Hey everyone I have recently acquired this 26 foot trimaran that was apparently designed and built by a fellow Phil or Philip and spend a lot of time on Kangaroo Island on the trailer there ore a morning .
She is now in Harvey Bay Queensland undergoing a quick refit before Christmas then heading north for some racing and sailing at Easter she will be a minimalist cruising liver board boat that will do occasional racing. Any help getting me in touch with the designer and builder would be greatly appreciated I’m also interested in electric propulsion currently looking at converting outboard to DC 24 v... If this is successful the Nextep will be sale drive type set up with the same electric motor design.
 

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Anyone with trimaran with Water stay tension experience ....this boat is set up with 4 understate wires and then one each side from forward beam ends up to main hull Bow rollerForestay .I’m after some advice regarding tensioning these I’m assuming at the moment they would just be set to stiffen the whole boat up therefore not necessarily tensioned As such more just to maintain AMA location for want of a better word.
 
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Old sailor 7 ? Regarding water stay tension the Buccaneers would be very similar to my design so numbers would be relevant any help would be greatly appreciated
 
I will dig up the relevant Buccaneer 24 plan and post it on the Multihull Structure Thoughts thread page 39. In the meantime look on the thread at page 12 nbr 177 will give you the path to the full Bucc 28 plans and Page 8 nbr 116 will give you the Bucc 33 cross beam plan and associated stay structure.
 
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I will dig up the relevant Buccaneer 24 plan and post it on the Multihull Structure Thoughts thread page 39. In the meantime look on the thread at page 12 nbr 177 will give you the path to the full Bucc 28 plans and Page 8 nbr 116 will give you the Bucc 33 cross beam plan and associated stay structure.
Thanks mate appreciate that
 
S float forward beam end . Looks good as new after 20 years . The bolt holes are for water stays .
 

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Cleaning White House paint off all the fitting sucks!!!
People please stop painting over boat fittings
 

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Still polishing stainless getting all the fittings ready nothing worse than getting her painted and finding out all the fittings are covered in **** . Rudder system is good With infinite adjustment to completely out of the water for beaching
 
I have a similar set up but aluminium mast as beams so I would hazard a guess that your water stays want to be fairly tight but not pulling down too hard, just enough for the wires to be under some tension and react the same when played/tapped. The mast shrouds are working the other way so a happy medium is what you're after. Try looking for some flex carefully without the stays on each beam, if they are all the same your fine. Check them for even tension before /after a windy day when the tri has worked, for peace of mind as your getting to know her. Although it affects pointing ability a little perhaps, you wouldn't put too much load on the shrouds because you're loading up the mast compression and beams , you will work out what feels right the more you get the feel of what's reasonable movement. I'm not super experienced so happy to be corrected by those with more knowledge /experience, it's a nice boat. getting a tri guy onboard for a trial would be nice, maybe cruising and racing are different settings.. it's up to you ultimately
 
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