K-19 just bought plans

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by gotthebug, Apr 4, 2004.

  1. mlv
    Joined: Jan 2005
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    Location: cincinnati, OH

    mlv Junior Member

    8 ft of 1/2 in steel all thread should weigh ~11 lb. I wouldn't worry about not glassing the radius on the daggerboard cut out. It isn't an area you should be able to hit anything with. If you do, you're probably having a bad day anyway and glass probably would not help.

    I'm not comfortable with a completely neutral buoyancy on the dagger board. I wouldn't want to miss slightly and have it sink. You should only need to have it weigh slightly more than the submerged part of the board. Then it should stay down in the case, but would float if it fell out in a capsize because of the additional buoyancy of the part in the case. I'll probably use a leash of some sort anyway. It would be really inconvenient to have it drift away or sink in the middle of a capsize.

    I currently sail a Y flyer (http://www.yflyer.org/Discover%20the%20Y/discover_the_yflyer.htm). It weighs 500 lb and has about the same sail area on a shorter lower aspect ratio rig. The beam is 5'8" compared to the 7 ft on the k-19. Based on my experience with the Y, I wouldn't think the k-19 would need a trapeeze unless you went to a bigger sail plan. Try looking at the rig for a Flying Dutchman (http://www.sailingsource.com/sailfd/fdcr2004v3.pdf). 226 sq ft spinnaker on a 5' 10" beam.

    Also based on my experience with the Y, I don't think the cockpit edge on the k-19 will be all that uncomfortable if you do the 1/2 in radius (or larger) that he calls for in the plans. The foot well on the Y (it really isn't much of a cockpit) is shallow enough that I haven't found the deck edge to be a problem. The depth of the foot well or cockpit on the k-19 is almost the same as on the Y. I think it's primarily an aesthetic thing - that was why I was considering changing it. Trying to get under the boom between the vang and a centerboard case that takes up the whole cockpit on the Y is pretty uncomfortable. That's why I was pleased to see that the vang is mostly forward of the cockpit on the k-19 and the dagger board case is a lot shorter fore and aft.

    If you want to round it over with a 3" radius or so, you should be able to do something like the attached sketch with 1/2 in ply. Just cut back the corner at 45 deg, cap with a piece of 1/2 in ply and then shape it. When you go to shape it, remember that the low angle block plane and the spoke shave are your friends. it's a lot easier to sweep up shavings than it is to deal with all of that dust. you should be able to scribe off a few lines to get to an octogon with your plane and then smooth the corners with your body file or belt sander. If you want a larger than 3" radius, you could do it in segments - kind of like a multi chine hull but then round the chines.

    have fun

    mlv
     

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  2. mlv
    Joined: Jan 2005
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    mlv Junior Member

    k-19 progress

    Hi,

    I've managed to finish planking the hull. I got the shaping and rough sanding finished this weekend. I still have to fill the screw holes and dings, install and shape the external stem and do the finish sanding. Not too much longer until I can glass the hull.

    mlv
     

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  3. bjl_sailor
    Joined: May 2004
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    bjl_sailor Junior Member

    It looks great. Nice job.
     
  4. mlv
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    mlv Junior Member

    any pictures of the varnished hull?

    Hello,

    any pictures of your varnished hull?

    what is your target turnover date, I'm curious to see how that exercise goes. I'm sort of torn between getting some guys over and using the armstrong method and doing something more complicated.

    also, did you run the hull glass cloth fore and aft with a seam at bottom dead center?

    mlv
     
  5. bjl_sailor
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    bjl_sailor Junior Member

    Still not turned...

    I still ahven't gotten the hull turned. Am shooting for this weekend but bad/cold weather may again prevent it. I ahve photos of the varnished hull being developed will post when get them back -- (my first digital camera died and my 20 year old pentax 35 mm SLR has been called back from retirement....)

    I've got a 'hull turning party planned' It wasn't so much the difficulty of rigging tackle to turn it as it is the weight/bulk of the strong back and cradle as they are muscled around. To keep the hull from flxing during turn; I've 1x3 "t's" made that fit just snug at 3 stattions. These are held in place with c clamps and pads along the sheer. The plan is to lift it clear leaving no particle board molds and to rely on the temp bracing until internal structures are added.
     
  6. bjl_sailor
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    bjl_sailor Junior Member

    Turned K-19 this weekend

    I finally got my hull turned this weekend! It went fairly smoothly. The hull broke cleanly away from the forms with little urging. -- I had originally planned to turn it suspended from the cileing straps but 8 guys showed up and we just muscled it...
    I had duct taped the edges prior to laminating and that worked great. I ended up leaving two bulkheads -- amidships and 2nd to last from transom by clamping them by their cleats to the sheer ( with a clamping pad of course). This was rather important as I was rather surpised at how flimsy the whole assemble still is.
    Yesterday I got about 3/8's of the interior cleanup and sanded. I should be glassing the inside of the hull this weekend...

    Photos being developed. need to get an el cheapo digital camera :) !
     
  7. Thunderhead19
    Joined: Sep 2003
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    Thunderhead19 Senior Member

    OOOoooooo! Spiffy!
     
  8. mlv
    Joined: Jan 2005
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    mlv Junior Member

    Great to hear it went well

    Glad to hear the turning went well. Still waiting with bated breath to see the varnish pictures.

    Any advice for the turning process?

    mlv
     
  9. bjl_sailor
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    bjl_sailor Junior Member

    Will have pix of the varnished hull and the turning shortly. I strongly suggest you leave a most of the mold stations in place or brace extensively. The boat will not stand being rolled on its shear without reinforcement. I had several molds in place plus some additional athwartship bracing and it was still a bit hair raising...
     
  10. mlv
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    mlv Junior Member

    k-19 progress

    I got the bottom fiberglassed last night and got the second coat of epoxy on tonight. Hope to get the third coat on tomorrow to avoid sanding between coats. I used MAS with the slow hardener.

    :D
     

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  11. bjl_sailor
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    bjl_sailor Junior Member

    To scarf or not to scarf.

    I'm getting ready to layout and cut out my perm bulkheads for the K-19. There are 5 stations. It looks like it would be very wastefull to do them as one peice cut outs. Do you think it would be ok to do an 8 to plywood scarf down the the vertical center line?

    The scantlings call for 1/2" plywood and I have designs for a 40 foot racer/ crusier that also call for 1/2" think bukheads!!!
     
  12. mlv
    Joined: Jan 2005
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    mlv Junior Member

    Scarfing sounds like a good idea to me

    Scarfing sounds like a good idea to me. There would be no problem structurally with that approach. The only down side is that it's a little more work. For a larger boat, you have to do that anyway, since eventually the bulkheads will be larger than a sheet of plywood.

    1/2" might be a little heavy for the bulkheads. The plans for a wood Y flyer call for 1/4" ply with glue strips on all edges. The deck and hull are 3/8" ply. The bulkheads are on a 20" spacing and have 3/4" x 1" glue strips all around. Fir ply is recommended. Fir is 20% heavier and stiffer than okoume. The lightening hole pattern is also more aggresive, but there is a vertical 3/8" ply backbone along the centerline of the boat.

    You could probably go to 1/4" bulkheads if you added a gluing strip at the tops of the bulkheads to get good bonding to the deck. The fillets should take care of the bulkhead to hull joints. 1/2" ply is ~ 40 lb per sheet. The 5 bulkheads together probably weigh ~40 lb max with the waste cut out. If you went all the way to 1/4" ply bulkheads, you might be able to save as much as 20 lb less the additional weight of the glue strips under the deck and maybe some sort of centerline web like he shows under the cockpit. The total weight savings would probably be ~15 lb.

    I don't know about the wood boats, but the glass Y Flyers aren't all that stiff. I think it may be due to the fact that the hull isn't all that deep. It's kind of like an 18 ft surf board. I weigh 260 and I'm going to go with the 1/2" bulkheads.

    Have fun.

    mlv
     

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  13. bjl_sailor
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    bjl_sailor Junior Member

    K-19 Hardware Components Pricing list

    Hi:

    I've gone through the Ronstan speced deck hardware, running and standing rigging and have compiled Harken equiv's in carbo blocks. Attached is a spread sheet that lists the Harken part number, brief descript, and three of the best vendor costs I've been able to find. AN outfit called www.mauriprosailing.com located I think in texas seems to have the best Harken pricing I've been able to find. I also listed out West (AKA "fist") Marine pricings which is basically undiscounted retail...
    Bottom line: cadillac dinghy hardware all Harken Carbo except for a Lewmar small boat travelor is ~ $1350.00. Everything will be for 1/4" spectra -- gloves required...

    I have put a simular list together for a Dwyermast, boom, Running and Standing rigging and that prices out at $1600.

    I've asked for a North Sails quotation from the local RI North sailmaker and he hasn't given me the time of day yet. ( Busy time for him why build dinghy sails when he can build maxi yacht sails.... )Who will you be getting your sails made by?

    Cheers

    bjl
     

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  14. bjl_sailor
    Joined: May 2004
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    bjl_sailor Junior Member

    K-19 Turned Pictures

    Well, these are pretty horrible quality pictures but at least you get an idea of what 'kind of trouble' of gotten myself into. Actually it is going ok. I will say they aren't kidding when they say it is very hard to sand kevlar/carbon fiber! I had a few stray strands around the seams -- which with s glass I can easily knock down with a my RO sander and some 80 grit. NOT so with 5.8 OZ kevlar/carbon composite!
     

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  15. bjl_sailor
    Joined: May 2004
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    bjl_sailor Junior Member

    K-19 construction photos -- Bulkheads

    Several more photos of progress on my K-19 sailboat project. I did not like at all the striaght edgeds drawn for the cockpit rim -- so I add a 2 1/2" radius -- which is as about as tight as I can get a 1/2 x 1/2 cedar strip around comfortably. Much more work but I think it looks better...
     

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