Just got my study plans! Woods Sango

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by WoodSango, May 14, 2020.

  1. WoodSango
    Joined: May 2020
    Posts: 27
    Likes: 3, Points: 3
    Location: Dc metro

    WoodSango Junior Member


    I’ll find some specs. Everything I read, said it works just like eglass.
    Only difference between Sglass and basalt is
    Link to a pdf
    https://www.basaltft.com/pdf/FPL_R_Technical_Data_Sheet.pdf
    1: price (half the cost)
    2: impact resistance, like point load impacts, its many times more resistant to
    Skin damage then even the SGlass and Carbon. It’s not even close
    3: another huge benefit I see is, resistance to heat. The resistance to heat and possibly UV
    Is off the charts high. They use this stuff in high heat fire barrier situations!
    4: Stuff is less water absorbing then carbon fiber...
    5: It’s much more resistant to pirate attacks.
    Ha! (See vid)
    With a foam core in the tropics (Even with a white hull paint)this stuff is like sun armor.

    Any website that deals with China products sells it, Min order is around 50 L meters.
    There are company’s overseas besides China that sells it also, I will source from them.

     
    Last edited: May 23, 2020
  2. guzzis3
    Joined: Nov 2009
    Posts: 487
    Likes: 41, Points: 28, Legacy Rep: 42
    Location: Brisbane

    guzzis3 Senior Member

    Goodness me.

    I've been sick and just saw this thread. Be aware I am now part blind so forgive spelling etc. I had 2 strokes last year.

    I have the Sango plans also. Here are some thoughts, worth what you paid.

    I have been told that the easy way to make one off carbon masts is in a female half mold. Taper the edges, infuse, flip and do the other side and join in the second infusion. Doing a straight section over a mandrel is brave.

    The layup in carbon uni with a periodic layer of 45/45 400 gsm for twist. This can be glass. You also need that tissue stuff to carry the resin in between carbon layers for proper wetout. Obviously use epoxy. Match the aluminiun thickness and it'll be still enough. You can use the usual fittings but you can make carbon ones and epoxy them on for a more elegant solution.

    People are doing this. It's not impossible.

    Hull skins.

    10mm adds almost no weight over 8mm. 400 is stiff enough but isn't rugged. Will you cry if you tear your hull open on a dock, rock or an idiot on a jetski runs into you ? I don't race. I'd use 600 doubled below the waterline.

    S glass and basalt are all well and good but how much difference will they make in bending ? ie an impact ? The boat will be plenty stiff enough in 400, that just isn't the problem.

    Also do the sums. You just don't save much weight going to 400 skins. I built a spreadsheet with all sorts of stuff. 600 over foam is a lot lighter than strip or ply, but skimping on foam thickness or lighter glass barely yields any savings.

    At least one sango (or maybe a wizard) was built with a conventional mast base on the cabin top. If you want a rotating mast that is your best path. If you want to race you will know more about it than I do. I like things to be simple. The standard setup requires no triangulation when mast raising.

    The people in china who supply strucell can supply glass bagging supplies for good prices. I bought some and it's been tested. The stuff seems fine. Personally I'd use epoxy everywhere if you bag and infuse. You can minimise exposure.

    Anyway it will be interesting watching your build.
     

  3. Pericles
    Joined: Sep 2006
    Posts: 2,009
    Likes: 134, Points: 63, Legacy Rep: 1307
    Location: Heights of High Wycombe, not far from River Thames

    Pericles Senior Member

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