Jack Holt Heron re-imagined Pt. 4

I think I might have to change the name of my lovely little boat. I just did a computer search to see what other things were named ERO. I wasn't expecting the 'not family friendly' type sites that were on the list, with graphic photos on their home pages. NO, stop, don't think about it. Get back here, you can do that later, you dirty sailors. Anyway, I'd have to go over all the name stencils I put on most boards, rudders, and everywhere, and have a re-naming ceremony - not sure if I can be bothered. Oh' the trials and tribulations.

In an attempt to make the boat handle better, messing about as usual, and remembering leaning catamaran masts back a bit, I cut the top holes from the side stay, chain plate adjustable extension hole plates, (made with 1/2 inch hole spacings), to lean the mast back a little bit, one hole spacing both sides, so it brings the sail effort rearward a bit, so the boat doesn't want to bear away so much. Bringing some power back over the centreboard. It seemed logical to me.
My rough calculations using www.triangle-calculator.com

Original (My) Ero specs:
mast height = 3210mm;
mast base rearward to chainplates axially = 380mm
side stays length = 3378mm

Shorter side stay length specs:
mast height = 3210mm;
mast base to chainplates axially = 380mm
shorter side stays length = 3365mm (minus 13mm, rounded up for convenience)

This changed the mast angle by 2.104 degrees, Leaning the mast top rearward by ~118mm. Moving 189149.7 square mm (0.189149m), less than 2 square feet of sail, rearward.
Note these are not standard Heron rigging numbers, the mast is stepped about 70mm higher than standard, on a raised deck and bowsprit base, and the stays are custom made. No gaff - a mast head mainsail. All numbers are +/- 1 - 2 mm.
The only firm data is that exactly 1/2 inch was taken from both side stays to lean the mast back. And the result was terrible.

This minor rig change made drastic changes to boat handling, to the negative, with either one or two jibs used in testing, and no changes to the main.
Tacking became more difficult, and need for gybing more frequent. Steering was badly affected, since the boat was slow to get going again after a turn, lack of forward speed making rudders ineffective. I had to let the wind bear me away with rudders dead ahead, and play the jib to get power and speed back, then begin to find direction closer to the wind as speed and steering is gained. It wasn't like that (well not that bad) before the change. Going down wind there was no noticeable change, but up wind all headings were affected badly.

Long shackles have been used since, to regain the side stays' 'original' length, plus an extra mm or two, and resume 'normal' operations.
Me thinks, what if I angle the mast forward a bit more ? Will it lessen the windcock effect of the mainsail, improve tacking, give more speed after a turn, and improve steering ? I'll have to try it to see if it improves anything. Another time; one bad idea at a time.
With long side stay shackles returning the mast to its former angle, plus a smidge more, there was much improvement in handling, back to 'normal', happy again. Well, I tried !

When the inner storm jib was added to a bowsprit large jib headsail while testing, the difference in boat speed and better pointing was easily noticed, as compared to just the large jib headsail. So for me, and ERO at least, the cutter rig is more efficient than just a bowsprit large jib, and main. If you can put up with the extra work tacking and trimming going upwind in a narrow waterway.

Changes and improvements recently:
Added a mast top wind indicator, on a plastic click on hose fitting, where the nav. light would go. Not using the mast light in daytime trips anyway.
Added a wind telltale to a 250mm high vertical wire atop the self steering wind vane, for extra light wind indication when the wind vane isn't moving.
Added lugs on the tops of the deck wave breakers, to take octopus straps, holding the oars down to the deck more firmly, with a second set of occy straps for security.
Secured the rear seat padded top panels, so now there is no need to remove them before transport. Only the optional rowing seat is loose, and is removed when trailering. I usually take it anyway because it is a handy seat, and table, and foot step, cup holder, cutting board, etc., if there is room for it.
Got a very small 12V solar panel to trickle charge the 12V battery; not mounted permanently anywhere, it will be placed in sunny spots as needed, when sailing is calm, and tangles minimal.
Added an adaptor piece of 20 mm conduit to the wind vane tiller's end, to be able to use the cabin roof support as a tiller extension, for when sitting foreward in light airs.
Added conduit saddles and bases with a hole, to the upper outer corners of the stern, to hold 2 whisker poles upright vertical when stopped, which hold the back corners of a tarpaulin sun shade, over or under the boom.
Re resin coated 2 old whisker poles and made 2 new ones, now I have 4: a short, 2 mediums, and a long for big sails. They all have a metal 1/4 inch pin in one end, and a slotted rounded flat plywood piece on the other, to engage the clew / sheets.
From small SS brackets I fabricated 2 rounded, curved strips with several holes in a line, attached to each side of the boom's gooseneck, made to take the pin ends of the whisker poles. They anchor the poles at / near the mast side, with the curve and multiple large pin holes allowing the best pole angle, and rotatability through more than 100 degrees with a big sail, using both sheets to lock the pole's angle. They are simple, bolted loosely down low through the gooseneck, and work well.

Went sailing to check handling again, after the shortened side stay experiment, and to try a new (old) trailer winch for beach launches and retrievals, and while at it, I deliberately tried to sink my boat when I returned to the boat ramp. I just pulled the mast over at the pontoon, (cold cloudy misty day with no one there), and filled it up over its side, then bucketed in another 100 Litres of water, and climbed in. It still floats well, with water about 1 inch under the seat level, rolls terribly, almost uncontrollable sailing, but will not sink. She's still a safe little boat considering how much buoyancy was removed during my hull modifications. A quarter cup of water entered the front buoyancy tank access hole, and a cup full came in the rear tank, after 10 minutes of being submerged. Both tank lids have no 'O' ring seals, so a pretty good effort. I refused to buy new access hole bases and screw lids including seals, since the local boat shop doesn't stock replacement 'O' rings separately, they want you to buy the whole lot new each time an 0 ring breaks. I'll try a smear of silastic on the lid flanges, to get a better seal - easy.

After drowning ERO, a 10 Litre round bucket got the bulk of water out fairly efficiently, 2 Litre plastic milk bottles with bottom cut off and lid on, have handles, used to scoop and skim water down to the floor level, then a hand bilge pump through holes in the floor gets the bilge mostly empty. I didn't time it, but it was at least 10 minutes bucket bailing casually before being barely sailable; maybe 15 minutes bailing by all methods, not in a hurry, before usefully sailable, but still a little heavy. It's not a self draining cockpit ! The sea anchor deployed, and sails down would definitely help the bailing out effort at sea, if it can't be grounded. It might be a different story with the boat full of camping gear, but should still be recoverable if not too top heavy when full of water. I think the boat would need another 300 - 400 Kg to sink it properly; I don't have that much camping gear.

The storm main sail was shortened by about 6 inches, with a flat top, just like the big yachts, using stainless steel plates riveted to sandwich the sail head, with sailcloth wear patches both sides of the sail, and contact adhesive used to reduce pulling. A sister clip is bolted at the head for uphaul. It probably won't be a useful backup jib anymore, but now with the sail pulled up to the top of the mast, the boom should miss most heads sitting on the front seat. For rowing and tootling about with smallish land lubber passengers sight seeing, and also used set low or reefed, and pushing through 25 knots of wind, over lumpy swell and breaking whitecap seas.

I tried the modified storm main on a free day, in hot light winds (it's all they had), and it hangs OK, sets OK, looks good, but the wind died out. I put the anchor out and hung in the tidal current, on glass, and tried different things while waiting for wind. I used a spare mast top back line as a topping lift to support the boom, and tried an emergency blanket slung over the boom as a sun shade in no wind, (the silvery plastic folded up pocket sized ones), tethered at each corner. I could still see through it, it was so thin, and the silver stuff scraped off in slightly abrasive areas. In any breeze it would be a crinckely noisy nightmare, and probably rip apart, but stuck in irons in the breathless hot sun it was great. I'll probably make a pivoting out pair of 'wings' for the boom top, to hold any boom tent type things outward at the top, for more sideways headroom than just a narrow triangular peak.
With the cabin windscreen up, and the silver sunshade boom tent still up, I rowed 1/2 Km back to the boat ramp in shade, and relative comfort. The 'wind' generated by rowing, and rocking in other boats' wakes was enough to make the emergency blanket's crinckely noise extremely annoying. I later got a cheap 6' X 8' blue plastic tarp to replace that noisy idea, and keep the silver crinkles back in the packet, for emergencies.

So now with the shorter storm sail up, someone a bit taller than me can sit up foreward on the rowing seat, not hunched, not paying attention, and not have their head boomed. And if the wind dies, they turn around, face backwards, and become my galley slave on the oars while I steer, he he he.

On a windy evening after a day's sailing, a cross wind pushed ERO sideways while winching it up the trailer, and a roller bracket punched a hole in the ply bottom, 'luckily' not in the front buoyancy tank but just behind it, so I repaired the hole easily, and then prevented it happening again with padded additions to the trailer, and a pair of side rollers at the rear.

I took ERO for a 7 day, 6 night sailing camping trip on inland waters over easter long weekend, alone, to see how it goes. I took all my usual boating gear except the rowing seat, since it would be in the way of the cooler and the water container. Steady as she goes - slow but stable and consistent, only twice with maximum sails up did I get close to water coming in over the side. All other sail combinations were very stable. She drew about an extra inch of water or less, fully loaded with 20 L water; a cooler full of ice, fresh food, milk, and 'nicer' drinks, etc.; a box full of a week's food packets and tins, snacks, gadgets, batteries, etc.; and a full large heavy backpack on top. Estimated extra weight carried was about 90 Kg, to begin with. It was a bit cramped for leg room, but not too annoying being alone; but with another person along, even a child, it would be a nightmare of where to put everything without being in the way in an emergency. And the centre of gravity, angle of the dangle, and all that technical bizz was a bit high already. Room for a Chihuahua, or squirrel, and that's about it.

Making way was OK if the tide wasn't at full bore, and if the wind was agreeable. Sometimes I slept in, or had another coffee, or had a walk, waiting for the tide to ease or turn, or for the wind to change, so I didn't waste my time sailing forewards going backwards. That's the downside of having no motor. The current was too strong to bother using oars. Having the tide and wind blow the boat into the mud overnight, and then the tide going out, was a pain. Many mornings the boat had to be totally unloaded and 'walked' sideways - bow lifted closer and then stern lifted closer, through mud and slime, back to floating water, and then re-loaded. I'll make a loop pulley anchor system on a second deep water anchor, to avoid doing that next time. Weight lifting shin deep in pelican poo and black stinking mud first thing in the morning isn't a holiday. Still better than being at work though !

I didn't have to follow the channel markers very often, only at low tide, and surprised many pelicans and swans not used to seeing a boat over their mud flats and sand banks. I could pull into shallows and tiny inlets and camp out of sight away from the busy deep water channels, and their associated wake wash. It was a beautiful relaxing trip, and I was exhausted at the end of it from lugging so much gear from boat to land and back, mostly to get out of the mud. I made a list of improvements and small jobs to make things better / easier next time.

When the peaceful serenity was too much to bare, I had my drink can sized bluetooth speakers strapped to the backpack, and mob. phone, to pump out my favourite music. I could pull up any time and make a hot coffee with my small metho camping stove, a bit slow but safe. Museli bars were handy during the day. A lithium ion emergency car starter battery pack with USB outlets re-charged most things I had, in the tent at night. I didn't use the solar panel or the gell cell battery at all, but would have if the other went flat before I returned home. There must be another 100 photos of ERO out there, tourist boats and others were often taking photos of ERO during the holidays, while they zoomed past, leaving me rocking and flapping to a stand still in their wakes.

HMMM:
The re-fillable 'USCG approved' compressed air horn I bought for $40 couldn't even make 4 seconds of toot, for use at the lock, which required 3 long blasts. I got 1 and 3/4 of a blast, and the lock operator was annoyed. I think a small electric car horn would be much more efficient as a warning device.
The lightweight synthetic tent's seam sealing tape was ineffective, and I had 2 wet nights in my new tent; a canvas one is bigger and heavier to pack, but more reliable in real rain.
My 'waterproof', 'floating' handheld GPS decided it didn't like rain, funny that. It worked again when I got home. Grrr.
The boat trailer's tyre got a slow leak on return, so I frequented petrol stations air fillers, while towing it on the way home. I didn't carry a spare, despite having two at home. Duh !
After about 2 years of year round use and weathering, the contact adhesive holding velcro to PVC on the fold up clear cabin, has started to fail; a pretty good effort I think, and easy to repair.

So I did it, and it works, a little slower and heavier than imagined, more cramped than expected, but not impossible, lots of fun, and versatile, from 4 inches of flat water, to 30 knots of wind and big swells, rain or shine.
Best part is the dissapointment of the water police when they think they've caught you being naughty, and you tell them there is no motor, so no rego number is needed, and I have heaps of up to date safety equipment for a 10' dinghy, HA !

MORE PHOTOS of ERO's BITS


Photo 22. Clear PVC windscreen, and the end of the bowsprit, showing the mast step, and multiple pulleys both sides, for foresail and headsail uphaul / downhaul lines, and mast up forestay line.


Photo 23. Clear PVC fold down canopy, with windscreen holding cords, and roof beam fitted. The thick clear vinyl takes a while to get the fold wrinkles out on a cool day.


Photo 24. Inside the canopy, showing G clamps, velcro patches, and centre roof beam / tiller extension.


Photo 25. Mast top is a thin s.s. pan upside down, as a mounting platform, with a central click hose fitting for attaching a white light, or a wind indicator. Room for more accessories.


Photo 26. Self steering rudder, very plain and simple, but effective when fully down. It doubles as a depth indicator, when I can't see the centreboard handle. Notch in lever arm aids pushing down with something.


Photo 27. Steel tube bracket holding the wind vane in a useful position relative to the tiller. The cord ties it to the eye, so it never gets lost if bumped off the pins. It happened once.


Photo 28. Adjustable linkages and brackets on the wind vane, pushing the adjustable length push rod.


Photo 29. Other end of the push rod attached to the tiller, via a small wire loop over a long bolt end. Basic, and simple, but effective. Easy to detach in an emergency. The orange conduit tiller addition makes a handle, and an attachment for a tiller extension when overriding the wind vane and the other rudders.


Photo 30. The whole self steering setup, with wind indicator on top of wind vane. Chunky prototype.


Photo 31. The crew, a nylon sheet hand, used to hold the sheet of the biggest sail, up high to easily grab when needed, usually quite quickly. Also load spreading straps on the mainsail ratchet block bracket.


Photo 32. Conduit saddles on the rear corners to locate whisker poles 'vertically' and support a tarpaulin for shelter. The lower saddle was hammered flat on one side, used sideways, and drilled out for the pole's pin.


Photo 33. S.S. wings on the gooseneck, with holes for whisker poles's pins, simple and effective, leaving the mast front obstacle free, for easier tacking.


Photo 34. Sick of lugging water up to the deck, to pour it out, and spill it everywhere, I made this handy water tank with hand pump in the lid.


Photo 35. ERO taking a break, fully loaded with camping gear, in full sails for mast head setup.


Photo 36. ERO Camping in the full moon.

In one of my earliest posts on here, I asked for opinions about my crazy plans for a modified Heron, and nobody said a thing, and look what happened. I expected, and hoped for some scathing ridicule and argument, but nothing was said, so I went ahead with the project. I didn't do exactly what I mentioned back then, and I took the easiest options for modifications, but I did make some major changes, not all for the better.
I didn't think I'd end up with a displacement hull for the most part, where it takes a lot of wind to do more than 4 Knots.
And I didn't realise that many local tides and currents run at greater than 4 Knots at times.
Lots of people like the look of ERO though, and it is very safe, functional, and versatile for a small dinghy.

I'll try not to go on about it anymore.

A Related Question:
I'm so sick of getting sunburnt while out sailing, despite seeking sail shade, layering sunscreen goo, and zinc cream, wearing a big broad brimmed hat, and with my collar turned up. Any suggestions on how I can have shade on a 10' X 4' sailing dinghy without expanses of fabric becoming a capsize liability in blustery and windy conditions ? I do need the wind to sail. I don't want to wear an umbrella hat, or sombrero, or bee keeper's (although good for mosquitoes).

Otherwise I'm thinking of turning to a small motorsailer with a wide shady wheelhouse and UV filtered windows. I've already had enough skin cancers cut out, and need a break. A bit of wind protection won't hurt either, but I don't need to be enclosed, except maybe for insects.

Now, I'm thinking of something very short like a Cherry or similar, small, light, centreboard, cabin, trailer sailer, common in Australia. Hartley 16 is too heavy, I had one. Possibly adding removeable struts and clear plastic windows and canvas sun protection to make a small wheelhouse motorsailer for sheltered and coastal waters, and nice-ish weather. Shorter mainsail, boom lifted, all controls to cabin, O B motor with 12V power coil, battery, nav lights, not too hard to do. Not expensive, I tell myself. With room for gear and to sleep. Room for a passenger. Able to access shallows, and sail usefully with minimal centreboard down.
Still rowable ? A sailable compact swiss army knife with the lot !

 

On the sunburn problem I've found that using the long sleeve shirts with a hood that are 50 SPF keep me from getting any noticeable sun. I put the hood up and a hat on top of that.

 

Hi Scuff, thanks for the info, I haven't seen those shirts, but will look out for a couple. I hope the hoodies allow head turning, hooded windcheaters and raincoats tend to block a sideways view, being not so flexible. and a pain if looking around, which you should be doing when sailing.

 

Seasquirt,

It'll be a big change for you but submarines are hugely effective at eliminating UV exposure.

If this is your biggest challenge then I think you're doing okay, no?

Happy trails and fair winds!

 

BALEAF Men's UPF 50+ Sun Protection Hoodie Long Sleeve SPF/UV Quick Dry Lightweight Fishing Workout Thumbholes Shirt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M7JWS91/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_87BAQ3S8YQVQMPRHXXZN
With the hood up you do restrict your peripheral vision a bit but it keeps the sun off your neck. Some of them have thumb holes in the sleeve so you can get it down over your hand.

 

BlueBell, I have actually thought about a sailing submarine, with viewing windows below water, and a conning tower like a long canoe, to let surface waves flow over the hull for a smoother ride. But massive wetted surface area, deep draught, and rediculousness stopped that idea; maybe as a motorsailer. Sunburn isn't the problem on its own, but the later developments from sunburn include deadly melanoma, and various other skin cancers, possibly just as deadly eventually. On a clear day in 45 deg. Celsius plus, the Australian sun cooks everything, and you can feel it doing damage to skin. Mechanics working outside keep metal tools in a bucket of water, so you can pick them up without gloves. Yes I don't have much to complain about in the grand scheme of things, but I'd prefer a longer healthier life with less skin damage.

Scuff, I looked up those shirts, a reasonable price, they look good, maybe a bit warm if becalmed in high humidity, but looking useful for most of the time.

 

Wet them with a sprayed.

 

A functionality note on the boat after serious use of ERO. And a good case for needing a small Trailer Sailer:
I did a 12 day 11 night sailing camping trip of about 250 Km long, in my 10 foot long plywood sailing dinghy, a sawn off Heron. Everything worked fine, until hitting a rock or bommy, which sheared off the centreboard pivot pin; a weak point I never considered. Easily fixed though.

Having to find a new sheltered camp spot every evening, clear and level some ground, peg a tent, and a tarp over the top of my leaky modern backpacker's tent (rubbish in real weather), set the bed, and arrange all my stuff I can't leave in an open boat, and then sit cross legged cramped hunched over a metho stove, to get a hot coffee and some dinner warming, at the end of a long day's sailing, gets a bit tedious. And in a long drawn out gale and heavy rain, lying in my coffin shaped tent for hours - days, lying damp / wet, leaks and condensation, cramped, unable to move without getting outside in the rain, except for furtive expeditions with the spade when a break in the rain allows, isn't a holiday. Packing up every morning is a similar chore, especially if breaking camp and stowing everything quickly in between rain clouds.
And having no motor to overcome fast running waters, steep choppy waves, and sailing gear failure, is a recipe for potential adventure, at least.
It's fun for a while, but longer term, a small open boat isn't so much fun in winter, or in bad conditions; summer use is much better.

Now I DO want a bigger boat with a cabin, and outboard motor for winter, and long trips. Only a little bit bigger, like 15 - 17 feet long, with about 6 - 10 hp on the back. I still love ERO, but horses for courses; and safety and comfort in poor conditions makes for a better time. Now looking for a small TS to mess about with and modify, insulated cabin, small pilot house, swing centreboard and rudder, room for a compact couple inside. If I find a suitable project, I'll start a new thread for its progress, and advice. I think a Cherry or similar could be good, lighter than a Hartley TS 16, and easier to nicely modify plywood than a F.G. hull / deck. We'll see what cheapie pops up.

 

As far as the name issue, you could always add a z.
Alternatively, words with Ero, word made with ero, Ero definition, Definition for Ero, Anagrams of ero https://scrabble.merriam.com/words/with/ero
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Are you familiar with Birdwatcher and other boats with similar "cabins"? Might be a way to keep things small, while still being sheltered. Here's an article about them:
Jim Michalak's Boat Designs/The Index http://www.jimsboats.com/15sep09.htm#Birdwatcher%20Cabins
Both Bolger and Michalak have designs with Birdwatcher cabins in a number of sizes.

A more minimalist approach:
Goose Explorer Full Plans PDF https://duckworks.com/goose-explorer-plans/
even more so:
Ocean Explorer Plans PDF https://duckworks.com/ocean-explorer-plans/
Puddle Duck Racers with Cabins https://www.pdracer.com/hull-config/cabin/

Another approach:
Matts boats http://www.microcruising.com/pictures.htm
and Jim Michalak's take on the above:
Jim Michalak's Boat Designs/The Index http://www.jimsboats.com/webarchives/2009/1may09.htm#Robbsboat
Michalak Robbsboat build http://tomsrobbsboat.blogspot.com/
There are, of course, a bunch of other small designs with a bit more shelter than your boat.