Is this correct? (repainting fiberglass)

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by n421fn, Mar 7, 2011.

  1. n421fn
    Joined: Mar 2011
    Posts: 6
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    Location: Clearwater

    n421fn Junior Member

    Below is a picture of my boat. I am wondering if the following information is a good option for me. Any advice is much appreciated.



    Read below or follow link:

    Prep Work
    Cleaning the area to be painted may seem superfluous since the surface is to be sanded, but the actual sanding process can drive contamination deeper into the gelcoat. To prevent this, wash and wax the hull with soap and water and finally do a solvent wipe. It’s important to wear gloves and cover any skin exposed to harsh chemicals. During the solvent wipe down, regularly turn the rag used and change to a new one often to prevent smearing surface waxes and other contaminants. Make note of surface imperfections as you are cleaning.

    First Sanding
    If the surface is in good shape, a sanding with 80- or 100-grit sandpaper is all that’s needed prior to an epoxy primer coat with Interlux 404/414. If there are one or more areas where the gelcoat has been badly gouged,
    carry out a spot repair using either Epiglass Epoxy products or premixed Interlux Interfill Epoxy Filler. Epoxy resin based fillers are slower to set and a little harder to sand than polyester or vinylester fillers, but their long-term adhesive quality and reluctance to absorb water make them the preferred repair putty. If extensive surface repairs are needed, it’s best to prime first then spot repair with 404/414 following instructions about a chemical bond or sanding the primer before filling. Once the putty has been sanded flush, reprime the filled areas.

    Primer Application
    Regardless of whether you plan to use a one-part or a two-part finish coat, if you’re looking for a long lasting
    primer, you can’t beat the two-part epoxy barrier coat Interlux 404/414. Its adhesive quality and tough finish
    mean that it stays where it belongs, and when it comes time to renew the topcoat, it’s very likely that the primer will still be intact, which simplifies the prep. The primer application is similar to how the finish coat will be handled and it can act as a dress rehearsal, helping an applicator to get the feel of roll and tip process.

    Second Sanding
    Use a much lighter grade of sandpaper (220-320 grit) to smooth the surface and take out as many surface
    imperfections as possible. If an orbital disk sander with a thick soft foam pad is used, keep it flat and avoid scalloping the primer. A do-it-yourselfer who is careful with primer application will see less drudgery in the sanding process. In areas where you sand through the primer, spot touch up and when cured, lightly scuff-sand the area.

    The slogan "what you see is most certainly what you get", underscores how smooth the surface must be. The
    shiny topcoat will cause shortfalls in your prep work to stand out. Remember that most of the time, admirers are yards, not inches, away when admiring your boat.

    Finish Prep
    Blow the dust away and do a fresh water hose down of the boat. Once everything is dry, carefully mask off the
    essential lines. Fine Line tape from 3M™ allows you to cut a sharper edge. Use conventional solvent-resistant
    masking tape to widen the area for greater protection. Just prior to application of the first finish coat, wipe the
    surface with a clean rag and 2316N reducer, a spray paint reducer that evaporates quickly.

    Paint Application
    Regardless of how the paint is to be applied the goal remains the same, an even thickness of film that flows
    out to provide a smooth, glossy surface. It’s a process that sounds easy, but few really master. In truth, it’s part chemistry, part good house keeping, and part the skill of the wrist. The first challenge is to mix part A and B according to directions and stir long enough to ensure good dispersion. Next is the art of mixing the right amount and type of reducer into the mixed paint.

    Mix solvent into the paint to get the proper viscosity for application. This will vary with temperature and humidity and is an essential part of making brush and roller marks disappear. Do a test spot on the hull and watch it for a few minutes to see how the paint flows, look for sags and brush marks, and when satisfied with the mix, wipe area the clean with a solvent-soaked rag and start the job from the stern or bow.

    As with much of life, too much of a good thing can cause a problem. This is especially true when it comes to using reducers in paint. Your best bet is to start with the manufacturer’s recommendation and gradually fine tune the mix to what works best for you. Remember that slow reducers stay in the paint longer, and can be trapped in a paint film if it is prematurely overcoated. When brushing and rolling allow the work to completely cure and sand lightly between coats.

    When it’s time to actually start painting, the roll and tip process has a lot to offer. The roller wielding member of the duo applies an even coat of paint to a rectangular area using vertical strokes as the brush meister immediately follows up brushing out the roller pattern with horizontal brush strokes. Keep the volume of paint applied consistent along the entire hull. Don’t try for full coverage with just one coat, for best results it’s usually takes three coats.
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