the bow plate, nose,

Making the nose
Soft nose, cone bow, bow plate, all names for that piece at the bow)
As you can see from the photo below, the nose on Nimbus 2 in tight
It took 5 hours to do this, myself and a female assistant who pressed the forwards reverse switch
First off, you make a “cotton reel” vee block for the wheels, as small as you can so that it will do the end that is really tight
You will need to draw the plan view of the waterlines the designer will have given a radius at each water line Take a template of ply at each or thin al sheet, Weld each template to a piece of flat bar with the waterline spacing marked on it, and take at the correct angle (take the angle with a bevel off the loft Make a set of ply templates too Develop your cone, nose, call it what you will and cut it oversize in width by abt 30mm Mark the waterlines on it, Now lay wheels if they are overhead type like the ones we use, on its side, and start forming from the Outside in, get the outer edges right first, because if you do the centre first then the plate will curl around and foul the machine That is why designing wheels takes thought
Lay your templates in,, working away until they fit When it fits the whole pattern, mark where the nose runs out into the topsides plate and mark
If the nose has shape both ways, like clipper or normal curve then you will need either to stretch the edge or shrink it, Bending it bow, shaped(I guess that’s why it is called a bow” you can lay it over some wooden blocks and hammer it with a big hammer and wooden block of hardwood, as you do this the original forming will change, so you need to adjust, There can be some degree of latitude especially if you have breasthooks , or even bresthooks!!and stringers to pull into, however once formed this nose will be super rigid like a heavy pipe
Fair in the marks with a batten and cut the line
There are other ways, reciprocating presses, hammers but IMO wheels make the best job and the result is immensely satisfying