Internal Wall finishing

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by fallguy, Nov 30, 2019.

  1. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    I am trying to determine how best to finish internal walls. My hulls are multchine and 12mm core with triax on both sides and lots of tape seams. Small cabin, basically about 13' long by about 4' wide, lotsa surfaces.

    Not a big fan of trying to finish it all fla with fairing compounds, seems like endless cycles of filling, sanding, vacuuming, etc. Not sure it'll ever look all that great either to be honest

    I found a few alternatives.

    1. Furring strips on the walls with powergrip and vinyl wrapped formica with Velcro. Removable, but with all my chines, would need lots of trim at the seams.

    2. Sew a vinyl covering that snaps into all the chines, this doesn't look all that great to me.

    3. Beadboard or paneling on furring strips glued on with powergrip. I am good working with wood, but it would be kind of heavy wall to wall. Be kinda hard to rewire or remove unless I use screws.
     
  2. bajansailor
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    bajansailor Marine Surveyor

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  3. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

  4. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    Would 1.5mm okume be stiff enough screwed onto furring strips with a finish washer?

    Did some reading and it is too thin. Probably have to go 3-4mm minimum..
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2019
  5. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    Anyone use komatex?
     
  6. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

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  7. KD8NPB
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    KD8NPB Junior Member

  8. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

  9. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    11 surfaces port to star discounting bunk

    same for one room further aft more or less
    E05C138A-CAD3-4AD6-88DF-66A8322FED78.jpeg
     
  10. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

    I've used vinyl bathroom grade wall paper with good results.
     
  11. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    Thanks.

    I think I need to be able to get some wiring through as well. I apologize for being clear as mud.

    Right now I am leaning towards wood on the bottom and Komacell on top. All furred out with battens ripped from the hull jig. The Komacell sample is on the way.
     
  12. Rumars
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    Rumars Senior Member

    Foam backed mesh fabric. Waterproof, breathable, machine washable, comes in a range of colours and structure patterns. Fasten with velcro on the chines and edges. The foam backing will create a smooth surface regardless of how rough the underlying surface is (including wiring if you don't bunch it up) and provide some "give" and "softness" to the touch.
    You have surely seen the fabric in regular life, it's used for upholstery, luggage, sport shoes, cars, etc. The only problem is you must like the look of it and you need some sewing. But it is the lightest and least complicated option because it is removable and does not require any furring strips, just adhesive backed velcro on the hull.
     
  13. DGreenwood
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    DGreenwood Senior Member

    My solution would be a combo. Some faired and painted surfaces and some furred out with velcro attachment of Coroplast panels covered with your favorite fabric. Allows for wiring and alterations later. I've used this successfully before. Reduces labor and expense without getting that cheesy carpet lined look.
     
  14. BrissoDamo
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    BrissoDamo Junior Member

    3. is the wise answer, use neoprene foam mat, vinyl covered and stick it on with PUA. lasted 15 years + in my plate ally boat.
     

  15. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    That space is mostly above the waterline and has two fire exits and about 12 square feet of glazing for an approximate floorspace of 36 or a glazing rate of 33%. It is small due to the hulls being narrower and hopefully economical and relatively fast. The range and seakeeping of the vessel is good.

    The limiting factor here is that I live in Minnesota and getting my boat to the Bahamas is a multi-week trip. Getting the boat to Alaska is a many month trip through the Panama Canal.
     
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