Info need for sailcloth.

Hi PAR,

it is 60mm by 3mm and its tube not welded. i don't know the mark. to make a birds-mouth mast i need to by a router and make a table for it ->costly. also the wood here is only pine with a lot of knots. the boat is:

Wa`apa data:
overall 23’8”(7200mm)
Hull width 211⁄4”(540mm)
Overall width 11’(3370mm)
Draft 6”(150mm) @ 675 lb (306 kg) displacement
Hull weight 174 lb (79 kg), 58 lb (26 kg)per section
Weight fully rigged 275 lb (125 kg)
Sailing rig type Tacking
Sail area 84 sq ft (7.8 sq m)
Tacking, 126 sq ft
(11.7 sq m)
Shunting

the one i am building is like this link: http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/garyd/wa_apa.html and one photo has a shorter mast connected to the front of the main mast.

my question maybe dump as this is the first build so forgive me if i say something stupid.

BR Aliaj00

can i tweak the mast by adding another shorter mast in the front and connect it as someone has done i think with a windsurf mast to add strength.

 

If you don't have a router you can still make a bird's mouth mast using a table saw with the blade at 45 degrees. It is doable.

http://www.christinedemerchant.com/mast.html

"You can cut the v in the end(I think he meant down the edge) of the board with a table saw or with a router."

 

Hi Hoytedow,

i will give a shot to see if i can purchase a cheap router. otherwise will use the tube of my friend and see if it is workable "will lend him the boat for a month or so when finished and will not pay for the tube". if anything else does not work i think i will buy the router and make a birdmouth mast which will be costly but will postpone the finish of the boat a lot more.

BR,

Aliaj00

 

Why don't you just rent the tool for a day?

 

That is an excellent idea, place a sacrificial wood strip down the center line, put some kind of sealant under it to keep it from trapping moisture. Screw it in place. When it gets beat up or worn out, just replace it.

Although the birds mouth mast is attractive, it is a lot of work to properly make one. You might just put together a rectangular box section mast, it is very fast and easy to make, to get you out on the water. Than take your time to get the materials together to build a birds mouth mast later if you feel the need.

The rectangular box section mast will work fine in a cantilever installation (without stays) if you put a block of wood inside right at the fulcrum point (where it passes through the brace or deck piece). This will keep from crushing the box section, the block should fill the space solid, but drill a hole in through the center line of the block so it does not trap water inside. I have built a number of them. I have yet to attempt a birds mouth mast, though I do admire them.

 

Birdsmouth isn't terribly difficult to build. Most find it surprisingly easy.

Again a rectangular box section isn't well suited to freestanding rigs, which is what I'm assuming is going to be done here. A square section is better, though still not as well suited as a round section. You want the distance from the center of gyration to be uniform along it's length, which isn't possible with square or rectangular sections.

Not only does the wooden mast have to have fillers (swallowtails) installed at the partners, but also the heel, the head and any rigging attachment points. The filler pieces should be tapered as to not create stress risers or hard points along the length of the mast. This is especially true of free standing sticks as these can flex considerably and the stress risers will appear pretty much instantly.

 

The stub mast might be a good solution for you. Use two meters of the 60mm aluminum tube (it needs to have a minimum 6mm wall thickness) for the stub mast. If you can get a windsurf mast, use it for the yard with it attached to the deck. You can reinforce the hollow stub mast by epoxying a short hardwood dowel inside where the stub mast passes through the deck.
Write me privately at: gary.dierking (at) gmail.com

 

Hi Guys,

garydierking helped me with information on the mast so now i will build it. Also i searched around and found some paints:

i found two products for paints. one is water-base acrylic house paint 36$ for 18 liter. and also found one part polyurethane paint for water isolation of terraces and pools that when dried is like rubber 25+ years guarantee but get yellowish after some time in direct sun light . also found some paint additives for acrylic based paints, latex and revinex: http://www.neotex.gr/frontoffice/portal.asp?cpage=RESOURCE&cresrc=400&cnode=147&clang=1

latex was 3$ liter
revinex was 6$ liter

one part polyurethane was 8$ liter

what do you think of the options that i have.

 

I am going to follow PAR's advice and paint my boat with acrylic house paint.

 

HI Hoytedow,


i think the same also but i think i will add revinex to the acrylic paint as to make it stronger. They sell the revinex as additive to the acrylic home paint. in 18 liters of acrylic paint they add 3liter of revinex to make it more sticky and waterproof. so now i need to make the mast and start painting the boat.

thanks all for you help here.

BR, Aliaj00