Trawler restoration

Shrimp Trawler/ Bellamy/Gulfstreamer

We are in the process of restoring a 1970 60 ft Bellamy/Gulfstreamer shrimp trawler motoryacht (all wood)(never used as shrimper). No builder info available on net. We have sanded entire hull and replaced cypress planks and crossbeams wherever we saw any sign of bad wood.
Questions: (Transum)-We are planning on varnishing new wood transum with Sikkens Cetol Marine Light. Good choice? Should we spray or brush? How many coats? (Above Water Line)-We are filling cracks with cotton and 3M 5200 should we use primer? is InterProtect advisable? Told primer not needed if we want paint to adhere directly into fresh wood. (navy blue Interlux)
(Below water line)-We are filling cracks with cotton and Slick Seam.Primer needed under bottom coat? (black) (Waterline)-White Interlux-Do we paint this b/4 upper/bottom or after? Help--Husband, Wife team third summer project -No Money, No Fun,No Water, Lots of Sun.

 

It's wonderful you are making this conversion. Looks to be a fine boat.

Don't use 3M 5200 in the below waterline seams. 5200 will release from saturated wood and become useless. Use polysulfide (3M 101 or similar) 3M 5200 has very long term, adhesion properties and is very difficult to remove for repairs. I wouldn't use it above the waterline, unless the part has a 20 year life span.

Personally I hate the color and finish of Cetol (not a varnish, but in fact, a paint), and has been used with great success, by those who don't mind the translucent paint like qualities of the product. Spray will produce finer results, if you can control the conditions (environmental) if not, brushing will do as nice a job.

Always prime raw wood. The only time this isn't true is if you've used an epoxy prep (CPES or other penetrating epoxy) which can provide an excellent sealer and primer, on a surface for an overcoat.

Most bottom paints don't need primmer now a days, but it always best to check with the manufacture on this subject.(I'm old and still always prime raw wood)

I paint the waterline last, but many don't, using it as a paint edge between topside and bottom.

 

In regards to your suggestions regarding the varnish, what would you use for a newly replaced transum that is all sanded cypress?

Do you have any input in regards to the use of slick seam below the water line?.


Do you have any prior knowledge regarding this type of vessel? We are looking for any historical knowledge regarding this east coast vessel and her manufacturer.

When she is put back in the water, how long should she soak in the sling? Should we wet her down or do anything prior to launch to soak her after being out of water for 3 years and having over 50 new planks?

Is InterProtect recommended? Kind of Interlux primer/How many coats?

 

ONe more thing...don't use the slick seam. ( if you haven't already.) I despise the stuff. If you ever have to go back and recaulk the stuff is like waxy silicon snot. Use 101 or a traditional red lead putty or even the white seam compound Petit sells is better than that crap.

 

Cypress moves around quite a bit with moisture content, so if it's not been entombed in epoxy I'd stick with varnish. 12 coats gets close to what most folks think is a fine looking transom. 6 thin "build up" coats followed by a couple of "leveling" coats, then a few finish coats, under the best environmental conditions you can muster (bugs, dust, leaves, humidity, temperature, etc.) Buy a first class brush for the finial coats, roll on and tip off the other coats. Thin coats, until you've "bulked up" enough to sand level, then more thin coats until you're pleased with the color, sheen and finish.

I use a home made lead putty on traditional structures or 3M 101 in underwater seams.

I could find out about your boat if you'd like. Drop me an email (click on my logo) and we can discuss the issue.

Hang her in the slings 'till she "sucks up" which could be a day or so. The guys at the marina will know when she's ready (they'll be watching the pumps cycle) and can take a good guess at the proper time, assuming nothing else will spring a leak after she's splashed. If you've done you job(s) right, she should be pretty tight in 24 hours. Check the stuffing box(s) and the rudder fittings, plus all thru hulls before and just after the dunking. These are common areas to be leaking at launch.

The old timers say lots of primer (4 coats), but the manufactures say it's not necessary for more then two, if the coverage is good. I use to put on four coats, but am using CPES a lot now and it's an excellent primmer on raw wood. Paint compatibility is an issue, so check with the manufacture of the overcoat (topside or bottom) Many bottom paints don't need primer anymore according to some manufactures, but check with them anyway (it makes them feel important)

 

Sorry,tried last week to get in direct touch with PAR but it didn,t go thru.

This vessel shows builder Bellamy NC USA --model Gulfstreamer
Any information on this builder and how many vessels were produced?

Brand of varnish preferred?

 

History of the Vagabond Trawler/ Shrimper Hull

This is just a shot in the dark. I have been researching where my family's old yacht went. I have some history and older papers on the builder of this boat and would be happy to share them if you were able to contact me so I may send them or post them for you. She was built in 1970. It is my hope that somehow this does reach you.