Improper blocking causing hull sagging?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AMAZING-DEAL-PROJECT-BOATS-2-1957-CHRIS-CRAFT-28FT-WOOD-BOATS-EXPRESS-/121015199321?pt=Power_Motorboats&hash=item1c2d116659

I regularly check ebay just to see what's out there...am I see a severe case of hull sagging due to what I believe is about the worst way you could block a boat, let alone a wooden boat?

 

The boat is firewood but it is choked perfectly --what is your concern.

 

It may be the powderhorn sheer that makes it seem like hog. It may be hogged but the photos don't show the right view.

 

Crikey Ive just seen the straight six flat heads with dynamos,---lovely,--- but still firewood.

 

Doesnt look too bad.... Ive seen worse....Improper blocking is also an issue with big boats...particularly metal. All boats must be blocked at the frames...not the skin. Metal will oil can if you block on the skin. Also trim is important. Bow down is destructive. None of the deck drains, hatch frame, cockpit drains work.

 

A little obvious micheal,--.

 

It may seem obviuos but Ive had to repair improper blocking damaged caused by the " finest shipyards "

 

Wooden boats are best not blocked on the frames, but supported along the keel and also prevented from tipping or rolling with light blocking. Blocking at frames places localized loads, which typically distort planking, framing elements, etc. The keel is really the only place designed to tolerate all the boat's weight.

I don't like using concrete blocks to support a boat, unless they are on the flat and as seen, have a wooden shim in contact with the boat. If the concrete blocks are placed right side up, they have little bearing area against the ground, and tend to sink, at least here in sandy Florida, they do. A piece of plywood under each would solve this. The corners of the transom shouldn't bear the boat's weight so much as keep it from rolling off the keel blocks.

The second to last image, appears to be a different boat, now this one is supported poorly, with just blocking at the ends of the boat and a post under the chine at midship. This will cause the boat's keel to sag.

Lastly, Chris Craft was well known for their reversed curved sheer planks. This coupled with some lens distortion is probably what you're seeing.

The boat doesn't appear to be firewood yet, but it will not be long before it is.

 

You block on the keel. Somehow your must keep a boat from rolling over with jackstands or sticks on the skin. The boat pictured looks dangerous. No jackstand, stick forward. Some agressive work forward will cause her to move.

 

It is minimal I agree but as for correct its fine in my opinion . However if I was doing some work on it or UNDER it I would certainly reconsider the situation.

 

There are actually two boats for sale, not one:

AMAZING DEAL PROJECT BOATS!!! 2 1957 CHRIS CRAFT 28FT WOOD BOATS EXPRESS

The boat with its helm on the port side looks to be a lot rougher.... make it the parts boat, and restore the other one?

 

I do not know wooden boats and do not wish to put forth the image that I do, but when I saw the first hull I noticed what is actually normal and thought it was a large amount of hull sag.

Properly blocking up a hull intrigues me. When a boat is in the water I see everything below the waterline being equally supported but problems with pressure points as soon as it is lifted by a sling.

Thanks for informing me though

 

You are correct in that water support is fairly uniformly distributed, but boats are built on the hard initially, and the keel is the primary load bearing element. In fact, most other structural assemblies, tie into or transmit their loads to the keel eventually, if not directly.

 

Travellifts can do a lot of damage by point loading structures. Hopefully the travellift operator has made all the mistakes before hauling your boat. Some of the fragile boats like WALLY POWER come with special sling pads to keep the straps off the sheer clamps. Speed boats many times have chine protectors. Jumbo Ribs are deflated before hauling . Old wooden hulls may break.

 

Whhhoooa were do you find a travel lift operator that does that. I and everyone else I know mark where I want it lifting with masking tape on the hand rail.

Same coming on the floor --its me that has to set the blocks.

I set the cat on four chocks under 2 main bulk heads and lift on secondary bulk heads and I rest it on 2 sand bags each.

When its antifouled I reset another set of 4 chocks and slash the sand bags transfering weight to the mains again, paint and launch on secondaries.

It how the Egyptians build the pyramids