Ideas for Rigging on manual Hospital Adjustable Bed?

Got one of these and really liked it, until one of the bars connected to the motor got bent. IMO not a good design as it puts lots of stress on an already bent bar with a little arm, and bending it back and re-enforcing it and hoping it works with existing motor design not really in the cards, since plastic business-end on motor got raunched and seems several variations of motor units.

So I'm thinking "Why not just make it manual, with either Chain Fall or maybe more sailboat type rigging? I've still got strong arms and legs so I don't require full push-button power, but being able to operate it without getting out of bed would be really nice.
I've got a couple of these units for each end, which will have sturdy plywood and 2x3" platform across them at 72" level, so I've got a place to hang whatever I might need as far as rigging from, to lift the sections of the bed up. https://www.amazon.com/Seville-Clas...40430852&sprefix=72"+wire,aps,170&sr=8-3&th=1

Then again, I wouldn't mind a more elegant solution without a bunch of overhead rigging. Also be really nice to not have any rigging in the way of swinging my legs out. The existing mechanism might be sturdy enough to be operated from just one side, but probably not in long term. I'm thinking maybe add some extensions to the various moving parts that would provide lever points below the bottom plane of the bed.

Also in the works would be a design of pretty much this exact design, but in plywood with piano (or even rope loop and holes) hinges for DIY, which itself could have its own legs or under-support, or be used on any flat surface including an existing mattress. Being plywood and piano hinges it could fold up for easy storage or serve as work surface. The steel unit is a real beast, so I'd like a lighter more compact and versatile solution that would work well with boat or van based fold down bed surface.

Few questions: AFAIK all Chain Falls are self-locking, but what about these Block and Tackle setups? I'm guessing "no, they are free spinning, so I'd also need some cleats." While none of this is Mission Critical and nothing much will happen if something breaks or jams, easy micro-adjustment is important so I'm leaning toward some light duty Chain Falls. I'm thinking best might be total of two Chain Falls but with some additional rigging so each CF operates each side evenly. Naturally, being able to operate the CFs in comfortable manner to make adjustments while in bed is paramount.
Problem is CFs don't like to be used anyway except vertically. It would be fine of one side of the bed and above structure had stuff hanging down at the knees/thigh location.

Any great ideas on exactly how to rig all this? Has someone already figured this out, and what is it called?

https://www.amazon.com/Mophorn-Twin...&sprefix=block+and+tackle,aps,187&sr=8-2&th=1

 

Not really manual : https://www.amazon.com/s?k=quad winch&crid=3B395OJTR7NQ3&sprefix=quad winch,aps,222&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
They working well are small enough . Some pulleys are necessary.

 

thx, that is something I hadn't considered.

My unit had a motor unit that used a push-piston against a short arm with high amount of push force, and precision, so when things got wanky there was IMO no saving it and it is FUBAR.

However, if it could rely on PULLING rather than pushing it could be Self-Aligning, so to speak.

Now I'm thinking they went with problematic Push Method for various Hospital Reasons. They demanded a sealed unit without any high tension cables exposed.

I'd still like to design a DIY type that could be used on any flat surface as well as folded up for storage. I'm thinking with stout piano hinges and stout plywood it could be controlled from one side and at least the "starter leverage" would come from vertical wall on one side about height of mattress.

 

" WINCH BRAKING, DYNAMIC AND MECHANICAL

There are two types of brakes commonly used on ATV winches. Most all Warn ATV winches come standard with “Dynamic Braking”. This is a resistance type of brake that is created by the winch motor. This type of brake should hold approximately 500 pounds. If your ATV rolls back on steep inclines, you may want to check your winch controls for proper working order and/or add a mechanical brake to your winch. The mechanical brake is a friction type that is normally optional and is easy to install. The two brakes combined will normally create enough braking energy to be equivalent to the capacity of the winch.


I copy/pasted that from the FAQ section at the Montana Jack's website. Obviously dynamic braking is harder on the winch motor because it is providing the braking force."
I copy from ATVConnection.
Self-Aligning ? You mean self braking ?

 

https://www.amazon.com/TOORGO-Hydra...8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1
How do you think ? If it will be left side mounted , pumping will be easy , valve control knob more difficult . The appropriate actuator and its mountings are needed.

 

here is actual unit. as you can see the action-arms are quite short and the tubular cross member is slightly bent. I'm thinking of adding some arms shown in orange in last pic and green ropes, which in turn would go to a few pulleys and maybe a Block&Tackle, and up to where its easy to pull and secure with cleat.

Don't want to mess (pardon pun) with anything DIY and oil filled.