I understand the concept for not allowing stringers to touch the inner hull, but...

My understanding is you want a uniform amount of bog under the stringer no gaps because that would create a hard spot on each side of the gap. People talk about hard spots. Bog is alot harder then plywood. When i laid my stringers I just put a sufficient amount of bog and embedded the stringer in it then I filleted it then i proceded with my tabbing. this makes one consistent contact along the length of the hull. I talked to alot of people about this and they all had their own opinion. Biggest thing I could not get over is some say put something under the stringer to get it off the hull then fill this gap with bog( is this not the same as embedding them LOL) either way just get a consistent contact and leave no gaps to develop hard spots.Just my 2 cents as I really never found a way that everyone I talked to used, you think by now there would be a universal tried true and tested way that everyone uses.

 

Sharp edges create a resin starved situation .

with Paint, epoxy...any substance.

Better to radius edges.

As Tunnels stated , a big gap is good. With small craft I use the little self adhesive rubber drops , placed on the component mating surface, to generate a known 4mm minimum gap.
A pad is a nice detail. Normally the designer will spec it when needed.

Bog bedding is common.

 

With yachts is the main bulk head that gets a pad and maybe a couple of others where there's load in power boats its a good idea to have pads under all structures that are close to the hull . its to get away from the sharp point bending of the panels so the will distribute loads over a wider area when the boat comes crashing of a wave at high speed and the bottom get shock loading specially in the forward and mid sections where it takes the most really hard pounding !! sort sharp shocks are the ones that do the damage and double bias and triaxle glass are best and last the longest !!