I see they make them - is a plywood/fiberglass outboard bracket sane?

The old V4 OMC's would be about the lowest profile you could get, so it will be easier to go to a shorter pod, I think i would be guided by how the boat performs with the motor hung on the transom, if the boat is inclined to porpoise and needs in-trim to correct that, it will be more so with a pod.

 

whitepointer - Yes that was my original assessment, 400mm works out to less than 16 inches. However because the profile of the hull isn't all that tall to begin with, I think the engine may actually come clear above the transom when tilted.

I've also got a 26 foot Seawolf w/ twin opti 150 - 25 inch shafts on a 30 inch setback. I thought I needed the whole 30 inches due to the transom shape (rounded protruding cap that sticks out furthest on center). What ended up happening though is the engines actually are partially above the transom in full tilt, so they end up above that cap and a 24 inch bracket may have done it.. Of course that hull is 4200 lbs just of glass and another 4000 lbs worth of rigging and fuel without even counting the engines, so bracket length is hardly a concern.

Mr Efficiency - I never had any porpoising to speak of, it is on the small side for a bracket though - about 160 cm.

Fanie - what do you dislike about using wood? I have molded things before and am quite comfortable doing that, just seems like plywood is very practical for this type of structure due to strength and weight. Is it just longevity concerns?

I did the math and doing stupid things like making the sides, front, and back all 1.5 inches with a 3/4 top/bottom, it is 40 lbs on the top end if really well re-enforced and encapsulated. Something more practical would be much lighter, probably 25 lbs.

Thanks,

Jon