I/O to outboard

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by Rranger, Nov 26, 2020.

  1. ondarvr
    Joined: Dec 2005
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    Location: Monroe WA

    ondarvr Senior Member

    The plywood needs to be sealed with something, and epoxy works great.

    But even the best epoxies don't have great UV resistance. If just being compared to other epoxies, some do OK. But being compared to coatings that do have good UV resistance, even the best epoxies turn yellow and get chalky quickly in comparison.

    Now if there's some super epoxy chemistry that has great UV properties that I'm not aware of, it would be a huge change for the entire industry.
     
  2. Rranger
    Joined: May 2013
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    Location: Grand Forks BC

    Rranger Junior Member

    The guy I bought the boat off had let it go. 1/3 of the floor still has some very old vinyl mat on it. The other 2/3rds of which I removed 1/2 of was down to the fibreglass and cheap paint. So the floor is going to get covered with something and some of these floor coatings are easy enough to roll on assuming they will stand up, so I’m just thinking ahead and looking for ideas for easy floor finishing that will stand up. Was even thinking of painting the boat from the gunnel up with that stuff. Carpet is always a good option for the floor. . This floor is wide open to lay it on.
    The resin was on sale 3 gallons for $170 so I figured it wouldn’t hurt to switch to epoxy for the stringer fillets and encapsulating. Should have enough to finish everything.
     
  3. brendan gardam
    Joined: Feb 2020
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    Location: east gippsland australia

    brendan gardam Senior Member

    Seal the ply then lay seadeck on it. Looks great ..soft to walk on and cleans easier than carpet.
     
  4. Rranger
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    Location: Grand Forks BC

    Rranger Junior Member

    Got my two outside stringers glassed in and encapsulated doing the middle stringer today then most of floor can go back on. Leave back ft open til install new drain plug and a couple of bilge pumps.
     

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  5. Rranger
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    Rranger Junior Member

    Been busy with other stuff but have been chipping away at the boat. Stringers and transom/motorwell supports all encapsulated. Floor peanut buttered down each side and screwed down with decking screws. Leaning towards some kind of epoxy paint with some anti slip grit in it to paint tbe entire floor. That should eliminate having to glass the new floor, but what say you? Will cut back the motorwell supports back towards the back of the boat after I hang the motor so I know exactly how small I can make the motorwell. I don't want it any bigger than neccessary. I still need a couple wraps of cloth and glass from under the old keyhole starting four inches under the bottom of the boat up the transom and down the inside 6 inches and then add 3" to each end on the second layer and after some sanding the back of transom should be ready to gelcoat.
    Then hang ghe motor and get the motorwell built glassed up and installed.
     

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  6. ondarvr
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    ondarvr Senior Member

    Epoxy paints are not equivalent to actual epoxy. It won't do nearly as good of a job at protecting the wood.
     
  7. Rranger
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    Rranger Junior Member

    Thanks Ondarvr. I wasn’t to sure guess I will throw a layer of 1708 and glass on it first.
     
  8. Rranger
    Joined: May 2013
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    Location: Grand Forks BC

    Rranger Junior Member

    Motor mounted so I can size up and make the motor/splashwell. Looks good have the 5” extension kit for it. Decided to use old seats that were at the back on each side of the old I/O. Will tie in the mounts for the seats into the splashwell and make boxes under them for storage and same for the splashwell so I can tuck the two or three batteries I end up using under it.
     

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  9. Rranger
    Joined: May 2013
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    Location: Grand Forks BC

    Rranger Junior Member

    Basically have a design for my splashwell made out of 3/8 inch plywood which would leave a narrow edge and sharp corners for bonking ones head on if he falls. I've thought of rounding them off by cutting a 1/2" slot in a piece of 1" pvc pipe stick it on and fiberglass over top of it when I encapsulate the splashwell. And somehow put a piece on the vertical on the front corners tapered into a smooth corner with the horizontal pieces so the corners at the top of the front end of the splashwell are smooth and rounded. Any suggestions out there to round off these edges? Maybe some bigger wood dowel cut in half over the top of the fiber glassed splashwell top for a finished look.
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2021
  10. Rranger
    Joined: May 2013
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    Location: Grand Forks BC

    Rranger Junior Member

    Going with a 1” dowel with a 1/2” deep slot in it stuck on top of the splashwell edges and vertical corners, then fibre glassed on when I encapsulate the splashwell.
     
  11. Rranger
    Joined: May 2013
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    Location: Grand Forks BC

    Rranger Junior Member

    Should be sticking this splash well together today and then get it all fiber glassed then installed. Then put the wood dowel around the top and front corners and its done. then some final interior glassing new part of floor included, shine up the back end and back bottom of boat prepping for gelcoat and pretty much done. Oh and cut splashwell supports back about 8" to 12" so they are tucked underneath out of the way.
     

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    bajansailor likes this.
  12. Rranger
    Joined: May 2013
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    Location: Grand Forks BC

    Rranger Junior Member

    Sides and bottom joints peanut buttered. Today get front cut to size and glassed in.
     

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  13. Rranger
    Joined: May 2013
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    Location: Grand Forks BC

    Rranger Junior Member

    Got things cut to shape ready for some mud. A little trim and fill on the bottom corners, and some peanut butter tomorrow and I should have it done to a point of being ready to start thinking about sanding and then gelcoat.
     

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  14. Rranger
    Joined: May 2013
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    Rranger Junior Member

    Still plugging along been pretty lazy. Have sanded the entire boat gunnel up with 120 next up 200. Going to carpet the floor. Then think a camo type gelcoat gray base with tan, black and brown webbing solution splashes. From what I’ve read I can base coat it with gelcoat primer, sand then a couple coats of gelcoat no sand in between as long as second coat goes on a active first coat. My question is the webbing colours if I’m using three extra colours do they have to go onto a active second coat of gelcoat? Can it be dried? If the second coat has to be active, I’m probably gonna need some help to have the three batches mixed and ready to splash on.
     

  15. ondarvr
    Joined: Dec 2005
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    Location: Monroe WA

    ondarvr Senior Member

    No need to sand with 200 if that's what you meant. You can just use 80 grit for what it sounds like you're doing.

    What gel coat primer?

    It only takes a couple of minutes to apply webbing, you won't need to rush or have help.
     
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