I/O to outboard

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by Rranger, Nov 26, 2020.

  1. Rranger
    Joined: May 2013
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    Location: Grand Forks BC

    Rranger Junior Member

    Well been busy bought that 150 johnson got it delivered, looked at its size for a couple days on the pallet and thought thats one big honker. Opportunity knocked to sell it with some profit did so and ordered a 5" ext kit for my merc 125hp. Which weighs 100lbs less.
    That brings me to the ideas out there for finishing this. I have two stringers on each side sound dry and hard. There is also a small 1x4 stringer under center of old engine compartment. Im thinking make a plug to go in between the two stringers on each side and with peanut butter bed it in between and tuck it in under the old floor a couple inches and all the way back to the transom. Mate pieces of stringer on old outside stringers all the way up the top of the transom. Thinking i will run that outside stringer all the way up to include the side of the motorwell and tie into the top of the old part of the finished transom. Will be a solid transom support also. Inside stringers will go up the transom to help support the bottom of the motorwell and additional transom support. And run that center stringer back to the middle of the bottom of the transom again going up to help brace the transom and support the center of the motorwell. Will make a couple nice compartments underneath for batteries when done. Any ways thats sorta the plan but welcome any ideas or input. A few more pics including one of a rough cut out side motorwell piece needing a lot of cutting.
     

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    Last edited: Jan 9, 2021
  2. Rranger
    Joined: May 2013
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    Location: Grand Forks BC

    Rranger Junior Member

    Pic of sorta outside motorwell and transom support. Needs a lot of trimming
     

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  3. Rranger
    Joined: May 2013
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    Location: Grand Forks BC

    Rranger Junior Member

    33B3918B-A7FA-42AE-A4E9-25398B049A06.jpeg C8992705-9890-47E1-984F-A2B2E1DA06B3.jpeg D031DDD1-086D-4AAE-AB44-B4EBFF6F1117.jpeg 115215A7-2E68-4B92-A030-1CD7480CBC76.jpeg D5D07424-DB83-4671-BB28-2C5AD25D29B1.jpeg 46A048E2-BF95-4C6D-8270-C442DD78E0AE.jpeg Back at er Christmas and New Years and overall laziness holding up the project. So I’ve got some pics of where I’m at, my plan, and a couple questions for learned posters. I have a bunch of pics will be posted and you will be able to look at them to determine which phone pic applies to question or explanation.
    My plan is to have the two inside supports shown holding up the rough bottom splashwell, in between the two old stringers along with a filler board on each side encapsulated over all three new pieces and the two old stringerswith poly resin I’ve been using. I will have to cut the trough support to the level of the other stringers so I can encapsulate to within about 8” of the transom. Also glassed to the transom and up from there to the top of the splashwell support. Question I’ve read on other threads bedding the stringers isn’t a necessity but I think I should use some PL glue because it’s a squeeze in between the two old stringers so the only thing holding the three new pieces will be the encapsulation of the three new pieces in between and the old stringers on each side. Or maybe there is a better idea out there? Question if I use PL glue and poly resin comes in contact is that a issue. Do I need to continue the two old stringers on each side if they are tied into the three new pieces going to the transom and up?
    I put a piece of plywood on the left side of pic to show where the outside edge of the trough has to start from the transom to tie in the gunnel and build sides off of. My plan is to tie it in flush up top be 8” towards the front of the boat for strength, have a piece going towards the front of boat to make the side of the trough. About 1/2 way to the front maybe 45 degree in to meet a 45 degree end coming off the front of the splashwell to try to eliminate a 90 degree corner and ripped knees and legs. I’ve includred a finished pic of another boat to show what I’m babbling about. Biggest concerns at this point is No. 1) if poly resin comes in contact with 24 hour cured poly construction adhesive is that a problem. No2) with three new pieces in between the two old stringers Do they need to be coated? I’m interested in some direction on bedding them. It’s a tight fit squeezing the three new pieces in between the old stringers.
    Lastly I have to layers of 1708 over the transom but thought I’d run another couple laps around the sides and bottom, and of course probably a 2” 4” and 6” overlap on the supports for the splashwell, so it should be pretty stout. Any input, advise, criticisms welcomed. Here are pics.
     

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    Last edited: Jan 15, 2021
  4. Rranger
    Joined: May 2013
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    Location: Grand Forks BC

    Rranger Junior Member

    Nobody? Ondarvr you're my go to guy..
     
  5. ondarvr
    Joined: Dec 2005
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    Location: Monroe WA

    ondarvr Senior Member

    The PL and polyester aren't exactly best friends, but if the PL is cured you can go over it. There will no strength in the bond, but if it's just bedding the wood it's fine, don't spread it around on any other surfaces though.

    You can build the supports for the transom and splash well in any fashion you want, it'll be plenty strong.

    While the wood is supplying some of the strength, the glass is taking most of the load, so while bonding the wood pieces together is the proper way, it isn't critical, and there wouldn't be a great effort put forth in production to do it.
     
  6. Rranger
    Joined: May 2013
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    Location: Grand Forks BC

    Rranger Junior Member

    Thank you for responding Ondarvr, I appreciate your help very much. Do you see any need, if I use the two pieces of 3/4 “ plywood and the splashwell support in between the old stringers, encapsulated and carried on to the transom and the support going up under the splashwell, that I need to carry on the old stringers to the transom from where I cut them. Or is being attached to the new splashwell support and two filler pieces adequate for strength?
     
  7. ondarvr
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    Location: Monroe WA

    ondarvr Senior Member

    You are building it far stronger than it would have been built in production.

    With a splash well that size they typically don't run anything down to the stringers. So whatever you do will provide plenty of strength.
     
  8. Rranger
    Joined: May 2013
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    Location: Grand Forks BC

    Rranger Junior Member

    Thanks been burning a lot of wood trying to do it the strongest and simplest way.
     
  9. Rranger
    Joined: May 2013
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    Location: Grand Forks BC

    Rranger Junior Member

    Well had what turned out to be a minor thing and actually a good thing. This boat had been sitting a couple years had water in it under the floor and engine compartment so you couldn't see it.
    It had no bung hole which I will fix and must have relied on a bilge pump. When I first got into cutting up the back end water dripped out from under the floor and I drilled a drain hole where one should be. Some water was in there. So was paying a lot of attention to the potential water damage. Was going to start glassing the setup in the pic with the motorwell supports. On the starboard side at the bottom and rear of the engine compartment I was taking the fibreglass off, so I could bond new glass to the stringer when I encapsulated it and I noticed what was a minute bit of rot on the inside of the compartment stringer. Not liking that I tore out the entire engine compartment and cut out towards the front another four feet of flooring. Good news, very little dry rot on the starboard side box for the engine compartment. There was a bit of water on the under side of some of the plywood I cut out, but I’m into dry plywood floor where I stopped cutting. The main outside stringers and middle stringers are dry, solid in excellent shape so I’m good to go.
    But now I can change my glassing plan. Now I’m going to cut a stringer the length of the cut out plywood with the other end going up the transom forming transom support and the bottom support for the motor well and the same with the middle stringer. All three of the new pieces encapsulated next to the three original stringers. Be a lot better structurally and easier glassing with that inboard motor support system ripped out. Was a good day.
     

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    Last edited: Jan 23, 2021 at 9:27 AM
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  10. Rranger
    Joined: May 2013
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    Rranger Junior Member

    Didn’t get a picture of the remains after ripping out the old engine compartment.
     
  11. brendan gardam
    Joined: Feb 2020
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    Location: east gippsland australia

    brendan gardam Senior Member

    No drain plug means it was probably a fully sealed floor . But over the years holes get drilled for accessorys . Water finds its way in and you end up with a water tank instead of an air chamber.
     
  12. Rranger
    Joined: May 2013
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    Rranger Junior Member


    It’s going to have a drain and a bilge pump.
     
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  13. Rranger
    Joined: May 2013
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    Location: Grand Forks BC

    Rranger Junior Member

    We will have a slight one week delay. Switching over to epoxy to finish this up. Takes a week for the pony express to get it here. Feel better about using it to encapsulate and attach the stringer/knee brace, finish off fibreglassing the rear side of old I/O hole.
    Also thinking of using this stuff in the link below, on the entire floor after the replacement plywood is laid. Anyone used it or recommend a roll on product that goes on both new bare plywood and poly fibreglass on the old part of floor. Floor is 1/2” thick is that typical? Or should it be 3/4” thanks.

    Designer Epoxy - Epoxy Resin and Pearl Mica Pigments Canada https://designerepoxy.ca/
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2021 at 12:01 PM
  14. ondarvr
    Joined: Dec 2005
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    Location: Monroe WA

    ondarvr Senior Member

    Epoxy isn't going to make a difference when it comes to finishing the glassing.

    Why do you want to use this stuff on the deck, it won't last long if exposed to UV light.
     

  15. Rranger
    Joined: May 2013
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    Location: Grand Forks BC

    Rranger Junior Member



    They are painting vehicles with it. I’m open to suggestions carpet is easy, done it before and with 1/3 of the floor with some vinyl crap on it, 1/3 fibreglassed and 1/3 new floor easy works for me.
     
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