how thick the fiberglass?

the mold is a one tim use only, and its buld to be disabeld in peasis

"Disassembled in pieces" is what I understand. You may be lucky, but as Herman said, that is´nt the best way doing it.
why did´nt you ask man? Here are dozens to assist you with pleasure. Too late anyway.

Hope you will get it off clean!

Regards
Richard
 
last year i did extend my flybridge, like now i did a mold & i use only wax, it work thet time, oh it do this time to.
 

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finsich pictures
 

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Well done!
When you need a job, let me know............
I just would say that.... but then I have seen the place where you installed the toilet................:D
 
The toilet should be installed as much to the front as feasable, preferably on front of the bowsprit. That way it will be cleaned every time you sail in rough sea. Besides that, it is as far away as possible from the "admirality". That's how it worked in the 17th century. (and if it works for them, why not for us? :) )

The extension looks very good. Well done!

One small thing that crossed my mind: Please do reinforce the new stern well enough to withstand the loads caused by the trim tabs. Loads can be surprisingly high.
 
the hull, I thought to do in solid fiberglass, until I reach a thickness of 1 centmeters.

How das it sound. (the tunels will halp the struktion to be stady)

(not my boat in this picture)
 

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extension

CarMan,

Nice job on the hard top. Are you going to add underhulls as well, or just extend the hull as is (soft chine)? I've considered this extension as well, as I've seen the 32xx's with them and they have a nice cruise attitude. With the 110 hinos, I don't think the underhulls will do me much good anyway, where the the hull extension would add buoyancy and storage.

If you don't mind - list out your layup schedule and materials usage when you're done. I still don't have my engines back in yet, but that's not a reason not to do a hull extension:)
 
I am not doing the underhull, only the extention.
(i ghot the 150ph hinos)

i can do a list when i am finis. It whil take som time, the boat is 1 houer car trip away. So i can only work on it in the week ends.
 
I understand - I also have about an hour to drive to work on my boat. Consequently - its extra slow going. I appreciate your willingness to post the information.

By the way - where in Sweden do you normally go in your boat? I spend a lot of time with relatives in Sponavik (just on the Norway border with Sweden, off the E6 north of Stromstad) - and it reminds me of where we go boating in Washington and British Columbia. With the price of fuel there though, it would be difficult for me to afford boating.

-.bryan
 
The boat is located in Oxelösund, it is on the Swedich east coust. in the weekands w normaly go north fom oxelösund, som times only an half houer trip, and som times 2 and a half houers trip.

We do not stay in the harbur, we allways go away from the harbur and stay on a irland sor the hole weekend.

on my holyday i normaly in the boat for 4 weeks, we bo both south and north (normaly som wher betven Byxelkrok ang gävle)
 

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i hawe yast finich the last layers of glasfiber on the swomplatform.
the time is 01:40 in the night. i hawe started the heating fans to reas the tempratur in the garage.
aboat 3 aklock i am turning the fans off en go to the bed.
 

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I presume he cures after the construction is completed (and before painting)
 
Now is the moment of thruth.

firts i saw the edge
teh i disambel the upper half of the mold. Tehn i nok the filer whid a hamer.
After thet i turnd it over an hamerd in a coupel of wood keals.
 

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Now is the moment of thruth.

firts i saw the edge
teh i disambel the upper half of the mold. Tehn i nok the filer whid a hamer.
After thet i turnd it over an hamerd in a coupel of wood keals.

Congratulations! Lucky chap.;)

Heat it up again, for several hours! It is not fully cured at those low temperatures!
 
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