MDF female molds for autoclave?

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by marshmat, Oct 18, 2005.

  1. marshmat
    Joined: Apr 2005
    Posts: 4,127
    Likes: 149, Points: 63, Legacy Rep: 2043
    Location: Ontario

    marshmat Senior Member

    The situation: Project requires two female molds, each about 5m x 2m. Both are fairly flat. Parts to be built from prepreg carbon and kevlar, autoclaved and vacuum-bagged.

    The idea: CNC mill the molds directly from MDF (medium-density fibreboard), laminated with tooling epoxy to the needed size. Fair and finish by hand. Autoclave parts at no more than 50psi, 120-180 Celsius.

    Testing so far: We've done small parts (up to 1 metre) with MDF molds, it was quite successful. But that was at 120 Celsius cure, and at ambient pressure, not autoclaved.

    The problems: MDF is wood based. So it might: warp, scorch, decompose, outgas, crack, etc.

    Has anyone tried this before? Any thoughts?
     
  2. wet feet
    Joined: Nov 2004
    Posts: 1,404
    Likes: 441, Points: 83, Legacy Rep: 124
    Location: East Anglia,England

    wet feet Senior Member

    I have done it with smaller but deeper parts.Expect your glue lines to be visible.If the budget for the project allows,take the moulds to the working temperature and pressure with a vacuum bag applied and take a look at them when they have cooled down.The type of surface finish applied can be significant.I have used melamine lacquer,acrylic primer and epoxy.They can all work but you will need to be sure that a a full cure has taken place in order to avoid problems with solvents or by-products affecting the release agent or inhibiting the cure.You will need to support the MDF on a flat surface as it tends to become slightly plastic.Do not expect to produce a huge quantity of parts as there may be a tendency for fragments of MDF to stick to the carbon.
     
  3. marshmat
    Joined: Apr 2005
    Posts: 4,127
    Likes: 149, Points: 63, Legacy Rep: 2043
    Location: Ontario

    marshmat Senior Member

    Thanks wetfeet.
    Any thoughts on a metal backing frame for the mold? Would that help the rigidity? Or are the thermal expansion coefficients too different, ie. would cause warping? (We've estimated the MDF molds to be roughly 3,000lb each.)
     
  4. wet feet
    Joined: Nov 2004
    Posts: 1,404
    Likes: 441, Points: 83, Legacy Rep: 124
    Location: East Anglia,England

    wet feet Senior Member

    I would not recommend attaching a metal frame,because as you suggest,it will expand more than the MDF and cause bowing.If you can build a flat metal surface on a metal frame and seal the bag onto the flat surface,you should be OK.The expansion of the metal should not bend the MDF.You may find it difficult to obtain large sheets of suitable metal for the size of your project and joining with a guaranteed pressure proof seal is a challenge.In which case you will have to envelope bag the piece if you have doubts.
     
  5. marshmat
    Joined: Apr 2005
    Posts: 4,127
    Likes: 149, Points: 63, Legacy Rep: 2043
    Location: Ontario

    marshmat Senior Member

    OK, so here's the current plan:
    Sheets of MDF will be laminated together into a block of about 2m x 5m, with the rough shape of the part already cut into the middle. This block will then be CNC milled to the proper shape and hand-faired. It will then be sanded and finished with a tooling epoxy. The unit will probably need a couple dozen large castor wheels on the bottom to allow it to be moved, and will sit on the flat floor of the autoclave while cooking. The inside surface of the mold is thus airtight and the bag can be attached around the top edge of the mold.

    Would this work? Or is the stuff too porous to bag this way? (Also, does MDF release any fumes into the autoclave when it heats up, or is it fairly stable?)
     
  6. wet feet
    Joined: Nov 2004
    Posts: 1,404
    Likes: 441, Points: 83, Legacy Rep: 124
    Location: East Anglia,England

    wet feet Senior Member

    It will probably not work.I have found MDF to be too porous to establish a vacuum,much less a seal at autoclave pressures.If you have a vacuum gauge,you could try to run the mould up to working presure to verify its integrity-or not.I remain convinced that you should either seal on to a surface or envelope bag.
     

  7. wet feet
    Joined: Nov 2004
    Posts: 1,404
    Likes: 441, Points: 83, Legacy Rep: 124
    Location: East Anglia,England

    wet feet Senior Member

    Thinking about it further,what about the possibility of using a melamine faced board as the bottom layer?If you did so and if you sealed the bag onto the bottom surface,you would only have to cover the joints in the board and the bolt heads of the castors with mastic tape to stand a much better chance of a seal.
     
Loading...
Similar Threads
  1. mrybas
    Replies:
    10
    Views:
    2,795
  2. arekisir
    Replies:
    7
    Views:
    6,095
  3. Joe0157
    Replies:
    24
    Views:
    1,095
  4. fallguy
    Replies:
    11
    Views:
    878
  5. pironiero
    Replies:
    34
    Views:
    4,628
  6. jangr
    Replies:
    34
    Views:
    4,003
  7. bjdbowman
    Replies:
    49
    Views:
    8,036
  8. Jetboy
    Replies:
    17
    Views:
    3,860
  9. Cat Cruiser
    Replies:
    4
    Views:
    2,264
  10. hambamble
    Replies:
    23
    Views:
    12,321
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.