how are hypalon tubes attached to RIBs (rigid inflatable)?

Anyone know? My thoughts are these:

There are lots of small (12-15ft) fiberglass boats to be had in new england for next-to-nothing. I've seen some basic pictures of RIB-kits, and the hull/tube interface looks simple enough. Wouldnt there be a way to attach some tubes from a govt surplus inflatable to a freebie f/g boat with some hardwork, lots of glass, and a sawsall (oversimplification of the year)? Im thinking that the hull and transom from the hardboat would be a good starting point, and taking into account the length and beam, perhaps there is a way to fashion simarly sized inflatable tubes to the hull?

I actually own an old Avon RIB that is a great little boat, and was just thinking of a project, providing the right donors presented themselves. The gensis of this was an old fg 15ft hull, and a similar sized us navy surplus zodiac seem in the same day...

 

Duct tape? Just kidding.

Maybe they use some kind of watertight adhesive which has some flex or cushion to it (just guessing).

If so it could be similar to EternaBond . This is a double sided tape which will stick anything to anything but it's made for rubber membrane roofs.

I'm sure there almost unlimited uses for it, as long as you don't let it get too hot..

Link:
http://www.eternabond.com/detail.asp?id=ebrsb

Package Description:
EternaBond uses, from the packaging: EPDM, TPO, Hypalon, Most PVC's, Modified, All Metals, Tile, Stone, Brick, Concrete and Wood.

The display sample I found on this product was composed of some rubber roofing bonded to an aluminum flashing. I tried to peel off the rubber from the metal, got just a small corner of it up, would go no further - big gooey mess of mastic like out of a Sci-Fi horror movie, it just would not let go.

It's not cheap, a 2" x 50ft roll will set you back $40-$50, and not found at the big box stores, only at professional roof supplier outlets.

I have some tips on using this product. It is somewhat temperature sensitive, much easier to work with cool than warm. When warm it gets softer and stickier.

When cool it is firm, easier to cut with a box cutter blade (must be fresh and sharp) and easier to get a hold of the clear plastic liner. I think for most uses it will be just as good 1" wide as the stock 2" wide, cutting it down it's length in easy to use strips.

I think I'll be storing it in the refrigerator the day before I plan to use it and keep it out of the sun when using it.

I should say that this is not a "tape" in the true sense. It is a flattened bead of mastic. There is no weave or fiber backing to it - just goop.

Warning:, I've put bonded material samples in my oven, which was set at 140 F. for 30 minutes (using an oven thermometer). Out of the oven it was like hot gum on a sidewalk. It lhad ost most of its strength. I put the two pieces back together and in about a minute it had gotten back most of its strength and was very difficult to pull back apart - still warm.

RECAP:
The good and bad of this roof tape.

Cold:
I bonded a sample to a rubber raft like material and put it in the freezer. It was stiffer frozen not "hard", warms up from fair to good flexiblity in about 30 seconds.

Hot:
Like hot gum and just as strong.

 

Sounds like it could be done, for sure. Might not be the prettiest little duckling, but it could probably be done.

Most removable-tube RIBs that I've seen have a bead or cuff sewn into the tube where it meets the hull. With the tube deflated, the bead/cuff slides into a channel screwed to or molded into the gunwale. When you inflate the tube, the air pressure forces the tube against a flange on each side of that channel, thus putting tension on the bead to lock the tube in place until you deflate it. Such a system would not be easy to duplicate though. I might try a fairly wide flange along the gunwale, then a flap glued to each side of the tube that can wrap around the flange and snap in place underneath....