Glassing in New engine beds

I have formed the blockes and glued them in place with pb. I will be using 1708 for tabing and wrapping the beds with poly Ester resin. My question is do I lay down all the tabing first and then come back and wrap the beds overlapping the some of the tabing or do I wrap first and then come back and do my tabing overlapping some of the glass on the beds ?

Thanks in advance Mark

 

Really tough to advise on information provided.
Pictures or even rough drawings would be of value here.

 

Any one?

 

Mine were tabbed and then capped. I'll try and remember midday tomorrow to find some pics of it pre gel coat, think I have some on my old tablet at home.

 

So; structurally, all that matters is that you overlap all seams and stagger all terminations.

I'd personally do the stringers first. The simple reason is it is easier to entrain air over more seams or a thicker seam. So, assuming two layers of glass on the stringers; it would be easier to finish the stringer bottoms cleanly without the tabbing is all. Then when you fillet for the tabbing; you can trowel thickened resin over the seam staggers on the stringer and eliminate all air. I prefer to fillet and tab same day to avoid sanding, so this would be my tack.

The other way, tabbing first with say 3 tapes will leave 3 places to allow air and you'd need to make thickened resin a second time to do it well.

But I am a bit of a perfectionist; so not the end of the world in reverse.

 

1. Ok so if I'm reading this right ( Bear with me I'm a novice) When you say stringer you mean the wooden block that I made up for the engine to mount to correct?

2. So my plan from here would be to cover just the stringer ( wooden block )
like so.. The first layer would be 1.5 oz CSM then followed by 2 layers of 1708 then once it tacks up ( about an hour )
Go back and add my fillet then do my tabbing. First layer 1.5 oz CSM 9-10 inches then then move over to 1708 with 9inch then 6inch and last 3 inch does this sound ok.
Also after I add my fillet can I start tabbing or do I give it about an hour to kick off

Thanks Mark

 

Looks like one is already done.
Increasing the radius on the top edge and fillet areas will make the glass job easier.
I’d not be separating the tabbing from the sheathing of the blocks, would do it all at one go.
Keep the catalyst ratio low, as this will take some time, and will likely be thick in spots.

 

I'm not sure why you are using the 1.5 oz csm, I always get nervous about starving the laminate with the wood, but the 1708 overtop will he plenty rich so as long as same time it is fine.

no reason to worry about the fillets tacking up, by the time you clean the fillet tools and stuff and get the tabbing wetout; it will be kickin and I prefer it to be soft for primary, no sand bonding

Everytime and I mean everytime I put down a fillet and have to sand for the tabbing, I am always mad at myself for the poor time management. Sanding fillets sucks..

 

If you are using polyester resin you should combine tabbing and wrapping into one piece if geometry allows. If not, then yes, first laminate over the wood, then add the tabs to the hull. If you do the fillets after you wrap wood you must cut the glass to be flush with the hull.
Since polyester doesn't glue well on wood (unless it's balsa) use the same number of layers for wrapping and tabbing. For your application extra CSM is dead weight, use just the 1708.

I would probably do it like this:
Fillet the wood/hull angles, use a big piece to cover the entire block and spread a little on the hull. Cut darts if necessary. Then add tabbing wide enough to reach over the top of the block, then use patches on top to level the glass. Finish everything with another big piece to cover everything and a layer of waxed gelcoat.

When you mount the bolts put epoxy or a flexible sealant in the holes.

 

Ok so no 1.5oz csm fillet and then cover with 1708
Yes sanding sucks how much time In between do I have and not have to sand its laminating resin.. same day ? Few hours ?

 

I like this game plan yes for clarification the base layer covers the entire block of wood extending past the block on all side about 2 inches

Next tab the block to extend over top of block 1-2 inchs

Next put a patch on top of the block to cover tabs

then add a peace big enough to cover all the glass that has been laid down this far extending past 2-3 inchs ?

Lastly put down a layer of waxed gelcoat which in my case will be pigmented resin gelcoat did not arrive in Time.

Also What is a dart ?

Please let me know if I miss understood anything I would like to wrap this up tomorrow if possible...

 

A dart is a cut in fabric that is required when fabric meets in 3 planes; generally.

usually some other steps are required to remove excess fabric or overlap it after the cut

the cut usually goes to the corner as fabric is sort of like paper in bending

this may cause a few people some consternation, but is good general guidance; so cut as needed when needed

I will add that it is rather difficult to glass over an
outside corner and and inside corner with the same piece. On outside corners; pull away from the corner and on inside corners push into the corner to avoid pulling the glass or pushing it and creating air pockets

 

You cannot lay glass over a corner in 3 planes; so a cut is needed.

see pic

 

Oh ok gotcha... yeah I figured I would have to make some cuts and over laps..

Thank you for your patience and understanding