Interlux Perfection questions

Gentlemen, I've read dozens of posts concerning this coating and I have some experience as an amateur. I'm in the process of experimenting and learning to gain the "feel" of this coating and the correct amount of thinner to use in a roll and tip project outdoors on the Oregon coast. My questions are these....Since I've got 3 coats of Epoxy Primecoat on the substraight, and it's smooth, I'm about to start with my first coat of Perfection. Can I use a general rule of thumb and thin to, say, 10% and expect the paint to flow on a 65 degree, 30% day? Probably not, right? So my question is - is there a general rule of thumb to use for thinning for a particular temp/humidity range to expect a good flow and leveling? I know I can't put in a little Penetrol to help like it's varnish.

Your advice will be most helpful!! Thanks.

 

I'm not sure about Penatrol's ability to improve flow with an LPU. I do know they have flow promoters (sometimes called "wetting agents") for this product and you'd best advised to employ it.

No, there isn't any "rule" for cutting a paint to get the flow right. Generally, you want to control conditions more so than the paint. A roll and tip job is dependent on temperature and humidity. A 65 degree day with low (30%) humidity would be on the very slightly cool side of the application window, but not so much that a 10% cut would be necessary. In fact, I'll bet it'll flow nice, right out of the can in those conditions, maybe slightly heavy, but this can be controlled when rolled out.

Roll and tip success is all about technique, assuming prep is good. All the painter's adages apply: maintain a wet edge, don't let the tip brush load up, hold the tip brush nearly vertical, work small areas at a time, don't try to "stretch" the paint with the roller, just spread it out into a uniform coating and tip it off, etc., etc., etc. The flow promoters used in these paints is very good and permits right out of the can results. Sometimes you do need to cut, but 5% for hand work would be all you need, unless conditions where harsh. Try it straight out of the can, on the inside of a cabinet or another out of the way location, to get a feel for it. Build some confidence then move onto the hull.

 

I've been using Perfection with nice results over the past few years. My experience has led me to conclude that (given the conditions you state) the product should indeed flow nicely "right out of the can" as PAR has said. Keep in mind that Perfection has a long pot life so if you apply it "straight" and find that you would like it a bit thinner you can always add a splash of thinner after the initial mix. Very little, if any, will be needed.

I'm not sure what kind of final finish you are shooting for. In my experience, with light colors you will get a very nice finish just rolling it out with a solvent resistant foam roller. No tipping required with light finishes, but you can tip it if you want.

Keep your coats very thin. Less is more. As PAR says you don't want to 'stretch" the coating, just don't load up your roller. Perfection may be unlike any paint you've ever used. It seems very thin in the pot but when applied to a vertical surface a thin coat covers very well and does not run. I've seen more than a couple of people have trouble with these two part paints and it seems to always be the same issues. They thin too much, apply too heavy and/or apply in conditions that are not suitable.

Follow Asko Noble's instructions and you'll be fine. Oh, if you haven't used this product before, practice on a test piece first.

MIA

 

Thanks to both of you. This really does help my confidence level. I've used Brightside with good success and I suspect that I'm intimidating myself about Perfection partly due to it's cost. I'm probably over-thinking the project. Thank you again! 'fever.