Help with my restoration. Nida stringers/deck

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by kpiazzisi, Oct 20, 2010.

  1. kpiazzisi
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    kpiazzisi Junior Member

    You guys are pros, so if it's OK by your standards, then I feel pretty good about the job. If I end up using the Coosa I will post lots of PICS of the material if you are interested?

    Thanks Herman
     
  2. Herman
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    Herman Senior Member

    Yes, please do.
     
  3. kpiazzisi
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    kpiazzisi Junior Member

    My gas tank has a very snug fit now. I actually have to press or tap it to get the plastic tank to fit in between the two stringers and two bulkheads. I guess when I glued the new stringers in I made them 1/2 CM closer? Is this acceptable, or will it cause a problem?
     
  4. Herman
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    Herman Senior Member

    Structurally this should not be a problem. If 1/2 cm in span makes the difference between alive or dead, then you are living on the edge...

    If it is a problem for the tank, I have no idea.

    On METS I saw the Coosa foam. It is the same as the PXc foam of Alcan Airex Ag (A3 Composites). Seems like good foam to me. A bit heavy perhaps.
     
  5. War Whoop
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    War Whoop Senior Member

    The Deck, I would use a 5 or a 6 pound 1" foam you should need nothing more.
     
  6. kpiazzisi
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    kpiazzisi Junior Member

    From my research I think the Coosa is better. I researched them both and apparently the Blue water series Coosa is the only one that has both Constant Strand Mat and Roving. UScomposites sells 8LB pourable foam that's described as being the consistency of a soft wood that you could press your fingernails into. That seems a little soft to me? I can get 4 x 8 x 1/2 20LB density for $125.00. I am not sure a thicker lower density board would be cheaper or better?

    KP
     
  7. War Whoop
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    War Whoop Senior Member

    For a deck right and not something you drive a truck over, I was talking about a 6 Pound foam like Corecell not some two part foam.
     
  8. kpiazzisi
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    kpiazzisi Junior Member

    Would the 1 inch 6LB need lamination

    A huge selling point of the Coosa bluewater series is that it does not need to have a fiberglass laminate on either side. It needs UV protection, but that is it. This is the information I got when I called the company direct and spoke to their customer support. They said that you can laminate the board and this will add to the strength, but in it's standalone form it is a structural product. I am assuming the 1 inch 8lb would have to be laminated? I will probably glass the board either way.
     
  9. War Whoop
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    War Whoop Senior Member

    It is a good transom material where compressive strength in required,but in a deck I would be looking for stiffness and Light Weight both which a foam core sandwich excels in.
     
  10. kpiazzisi
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    kpiazzisi Junior Member

    Then maybe I should just stick with the Nida? I already have one pannel and would only need two more at $60.00 ea. The nida is ultra light....probably lighter then any foam
     
  11. War Whoop
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    War Whoop Senior Member

    That would make sense at this stage,Do you have a place to mold the panel?
     
  12. kpiazzisi
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    kpiazzisi Junior Member

    That's why maybe for me the Coosa is better. No mold needed. I am not sure why I need a mold anyway? I was just going to make a templete out of cardboard, trace it onto the nida and then glass one side. Then I could place it into the hull (laminated side down) and glass the top. An alternative would be to glass both sides while on the garage floor and then place into the hull and tab it in.

    The deck is roughly 50 Sq ft. One cu foot of coosa is 20LB. The deck would be 50 Sq Ft x .04 ft (1/2 inch) = 2.1 Cu foot for a totoal weight of appprox 40 Lbs plus the added weight of the laminate. With the nida I will have to use more layers of fiberglass so eventhough the core material is lighter by the time the extra glass is added, it may not be that much lighter. The difference may be as little as 20 Lbs. I don't know if small weight savings is even worth it?
     
  13. War Whoop
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    War Whoop Senior Member

    Just using Coosa for a fore deck, I have not seen that normally done , for the glass internal in that material it is a mute point as you want the skins as far from the neutral axis as possible.you could just use plywood, 1/2" what is the largest span? you still have to join it and put shape into it.
     
  14. GG
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    GG offshore artie

    So guy if you have to put shape into it are you going score it ?
     

  15. kpiazzisi
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    kpiazzisi Junior Member

    From what I understand the coosa bluewater series has two layers of roving just under the surface of the foam. So in someways it is still a sandwich concept, just with higher density foam.

    You are correct about having to join the panels that will make up the deck, however the seams will fall directly over the tops of the bulkheads, so the amount of fiberglass to join the panels could be minimal....correct?


    What are you guys referring to when you say "SHAPE". Are you talking about putting a crown into the deck? I called Regal and they said that there is no crowning to the deck. Let me know if you are referring to something else when you say "SHAPE".
     
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