Dealing with air pressure differences inside a sealed hull

I am about to put the deck on a 25 ft hull (< 1 ft beam). It is going to be a two person pedal powered stabilized monohull much like Rick W's boats. It will have several water tight compartments and no storage within - trying to keep weight down as much as possible.

My concern is that when the Sun is beating down on it the increase in pressure will deform it.

My current plan is to put a very small hole in the middle of each bulkhead so that pressure can equalize between the compartments and one drain plug somewhere on deck.

Maybe there is a better way?

 

A reasonable concern.
Tell me you didn't paint the boat a dark colour?
How small a hole, 1/64"
You may as well put one near each top corner of the bulkheads.
You could then deck-mount a small low-pressure valve ( 2-way, in and out ) protected under the seat or pedal pod.

Or, fit a length of surgical tubing (rubber hose) sealed at one end, to a small through-hull in the same area.
Varying hull pressure will expand and contract the tubing accordingly.
You can also lay the hose out inside but need an access hole for it.

(When you built the bulkheads you could have installed circular rubber diaphragms ( <1/2 the beam in diameter )
in each bulkhead allowing for equalization while maintaining a seal... also making the bulkhead lighter.)

Have you calculated the actual expansion pressure?
Is there really a need given the small volume?

 

1/64" is about what I was planning on. If the boat is holed, a hole in the middle of the bulkhead should retain partial buoyancy. A hole near the top would allow it to completely flood.

My research indicates that the volume of air will change +/- ~10% with a 50 deg F change either direction from 70 degrees. Too much for diaphragms or surgical tubing.

I did consider the diaphragm idea though, I like that it keeps each compartment sealed. There would need to be tubes lead from each compartment to a central one to be able to vent for large changes.

Going from 60F to 120F is 3+ psi increase in pressure. 20F to 120F is 6 psi, volume is irrelevant. Just going from 60F to 80F is more than a 1 psi increase. That's a lot for a flat sided boat made of 3mm ply.

 

This concern is why most closed off buoyancy chambers are foam filled.

A hole in the top will negate any buoyancy if that compartment develops a leak. Put the relief hole at the bottom. Then even with a chunk taken out of the hull it will still be an air chamber once filled past the port and any sweating or condensation within the compartment will drain out.

 

Yes there is a better way. Gore Tex pressure vents. Venting | Automotive, Packaging, Protective & Portable Electronics Vents | Gore https://www.gore.com/products/categories/venting

 

As a data point for comparison: the Mach2 Moth has a vent tube more-or-less below the mast step. As close as I can tell, its ID is ~1/16".

 

McMaster Carr sells waterproof vents about 3/8" in diameter-fairly cheap.

 

W9GFO,

It sounds like you've already got this all figured out.
I have built a similar vessel but SOF and it wasn't an issue.
Don't forget it's water cooled.

 

With the hole in the bottom, it will retain buoyancy IF it remains right side up. That's why I was opting for the middle - in any orientation (except vertical) there would be at least partial buoyancy. It's a moot point now since I learned that I can get waterproof vents for under $4 each.

 

The problem is when it is out of the water, which will be most of the time.

 

Thanks for the tip about the waterproof vents, that's what I'll use.
McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/7066k131

 

I left James's entire post because I feel it needs repeating.

I run a repair shop. 70% of my income is from boats which have traveled over insufficient water. 25% from water intrusion into "watertight/proof" areas. Water will always find a way in. IMO all compartments should have inspection access. Leave the inspection ports open while vessel is not in use. Air expansion won't be a issue for day trips.

 

Besides "what Blue said", uh, no. If you have a hole in the "bottom" and a vent hole also in the bottom and you capsize, both holes are now in the topside.

 

I would agree that this is the proper way for most boats. However, in this case adding 11 inspection ports would add more weight (and cost/potential for leaks) than I am comfortable with. Remember, this is a lightweight human powered boat.

Also, we can experience a 50 degree temperature change throughout the day. I think that could present a problem, even for a day trip.

 

I was saying that a vent hole in the center of the bulkhead would allow for partial buoyancy whichever way the boat sits. I never suggested a vent hole at the bottom (or top).