Help Identify my First Project

Hello Everyone,

I've been using the info on this forum to help me through the demo phase of this project. Now I've decided to join to see if anyone can help me identify the make of the boat I'm working on. Plus I have a few other questions I'm sure some of you may be able to help me with.

I found this boat abandoned in a dirt parking lot. Steering cable was tied to a tree and trailer dragged out from under her. The hull looked sound and I had a rebuilt 40 HP outboard so it followed me home. At that point it was set up as a bowrider. That came out first, then the sole, stringers, deck, and transom. As I completed each stage of demo I found every piece of wood in this boat was mush and out it came leaving me where I am now. My next step is to glass in the two layers of 3/4" ply I have cut for the transom.

My questions are as follows:

Does anyone know what make this boat is?

Any ideas for rebuilding the deck? (not the sole) My idea is to epoxy and screw 4 pieces of 1" x 1 1/2" material down the rail, glass them in once they are all attached to one another, and tie this new deck into ribs spaced every two feet. Would that work?

I'm considering raising the sole above the water line and drilling scupper holes to make this boat self bailing. My question here is how much clearance do I need between the top of the sole and the top of the transom in order to mount an outboard engine? The 40 I mentioned was stolen from me and now I'm planning on buying a 60 HP tiller steered outboard.

Thanks for any help.

I will have to take more photos to try and get them under 2MB. Only one that I took will work here.

 

That is, me thinks, what was known as a Ski barge. Father in law used them at his summer camp. Brother in law still has one.

-jim lee

 

more photos

thanks Jim, seems like there is quite a bit of info out there on ski barges.

here are a couple more photos

 

Jim, I am no expert, but it certainly looks like an earlier model Kenner Ski-Barge (built in Kenner, LA if I am not mistaken). I think the later models were more of a scow-type hull, less cathedral-type than this one. If I am full of 'it' please tell me and I will go fertilize something .

 

That could one of a dozen or so different trihull configurations I've seen over the years. Which manufacture would be difficult to ID without a HIN or the deck cap in place.

Your rail sounds massive and quite unnecessary. The same is true of the frames on 24" centers. You don't need any of these for this boat.

A single 1x2 along the sheer, on the inside will act as a nailer for the decking. The same on the outside (hardwood here) will act as a rub rail and offer a total of a 2x4 along the sheer for strength.

A full width splash well aft will be required and serve to stiffen up the butt of the boat. 3/8" or 1/2" plywood, tabbed into the hull will do fine. Of course angle a shelf inside it, so it will drain aft. Maybe some lockers on either side, one for a battery, the other as a fuel tank area.

You'll need stringers, which should be nearly full length. 1x4 Douglas fir or SYP will do on 12" longitudinal centers or 2x6 (double up 1x6's) on 18" centers. They'll have to have their bottoms cut to match the bottom of the hull and are tabbed in.

Over this is the sole or sole support assembly if self draining. Furniture boxes will greatly stiffen up the hull, if attached (tabbed) to both the bottom and hull sides. This also saves weight, provides storage under and looks professional.

As a rule you'll use bulkheads, furniture, partitions and stringers to stiffen and support this hull, not frames and massive sheer clamps.

It's likely this hull is heavy already. You should make every effort to keep the remaining structure light. 40 HP will be asking a lot to push a trihull of this vintage, so think light weight and strong, not over built and needing another 100 HP to get her going.

The soles need only be 1/2" and the bulkheads and partitions can also be 1/2" or 3/8". Again all well tabbed into the hull. Except for the sole and full width bulkheads (one forward and one aft at the splash well) I'd use 3/8" plywood for everything.

 

What exactly do you mean by a splash well? I was thinking that to make the boat self bailing I could just raise the floor above the water line and install scupper drains in the transom just above the floor. Do I need to angle the floor down in the aft couple feet or so to provide a well for the water to run into?