Helm Switch Layout and wiring

Discussion in 'OnBoard Electronics & Controls' started by ChrisN67, Nov 25, 2010.

  1. ChrisN67
    Joined: Jan 2008
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    Location: Kuwait

    ChrisN67 Senior Member

    Anyone out there have any experience on the wiring of high current loads Like drive trim and trim tab motors? What initiates power to the? The main battery switch? I was thinking about having a fuse block for those types of loads powered from a powered relay triggered from a diode input from either "engine "On" key position.

    I am using the Cole Hersee MiniBuss System and it is very compact and simple to use. Saves wire and time.
     
  2. Landlubber
    Joined: Jun 2007
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    Location: Brisbane

    Landlubber Senior Member

    Chris, The trim tabs have relays at the pump, so there is no need for any fancy setup.

    What do you mean by a powered relay triggered from a diode input....why complicate a simple system. If your needs for current are high, simply switch via relays at the units, that way the switches can be lighter and the power supply to the relays (and out of course) is the only heavy wires.
     
  3. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    I'll ditto what Lubber has touched on, why make relatively simple circuits more complex? Maybe it would be helpful if you offer a reference or context point to clarify the requirement.
     

  4. CDK
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    Location: Adriatic sea

    CDK retired engineer

    That is the way to do it if the current requirements exceed the rating of the key switches. If that is not the case (it seldom is), you just power a terminal block with diodes from each key switch. With ordinary 1N540X types you have 3 Amps, enough for a dozen power relays and instruments.

    The relay + contacts are wired to the main battery switch.
     
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