Has anyone used Propylene glycol coolant & had problems with cooling?

I did learn one thing- the internal combustion engine output is divided in thirds:
1/3- mechanical energy
1/3- exhaust heat
1/3- heat removed by from block by cooling system

Why don't we tie these buggers to a 'engine' which recovers some of this heat and uses it to develop more mechanical energy??


Still too busy and the big test delayed another day...
Powerboat- I don't know if I understand your post.
Do you mean that one uses a variable flow on each side to deliver either closed loop or raw water and dial in the flow rate to see if it is possible to cool at any volume?

I intend to just catch the raw water exiting engine in a bucket and see what the rate is at say 1500 rpm.

Thanks

 

yes yes
so you would need to pump straight glycol faster than plain water to do the same job?

 

OK- yoo hoo or yippee! or something along those lines...

I changed out the engine coolant to straight water & got an improvement:
Slower to overheat and looks like it might not boil over.
Still overheats.

Sooo I pulled the impeller and engine hose and ran city water straight to the engine:

This solved the problem immediately- I can run the engine right up and it holds normal temps. I measured the flow and it looks like right around 6 gpm at 2400 engine rpm- not much eh?

So questions:

I now need a pump. The one I have is mounted at the engine front high so I am thinking cam driven. The cam is 1/2 engine rpms? So does this mean that I need a pump able to deliver at least 6 gpm at 1200 pump rpms?
After all this I want a bit of extra capacity on the pump as well..

I have an alternate pump mount option which is side mount by/at the hp fuel pump. I would prefer to mount the engine here. What is the take off rpm here on a diesel?

Which pump manufacture?

A higher flow Oberdorfer, a Sherwood, Jabsco??

I got a bit of good advice around the yard on this whole mess- Sometimes the cam can be changed on a pump to change the flow rate. Not possible on this Oberdorfer, but not bad advice if tweeking flow rates. The Sherwood pumps are attractive for their highly tweekable flow rates via impeller changes...

 

Running a diesel at high idle and no load is no test at all of the cooling system or did you use your vessel water supply whilst motoring?
I would be surprised that the engine from new has been designed wrong.
More likely there is a faulty cast/machined part causing it or the parts not supplied by the engine builder, the exhaust and water inlet plumbing are not correct.

 

Tested tied to the dock- gear running and digging a nice hole in the water- the engine is under load.

Surprised?
I am not. A shop which marinizes several models of Kubotas bolts the wrong water pump to the engine.



Exhaust, plumbing etc are properly engineered.
I know this because I did the work

The provided pump is putting out 3 gpm at 2400 rpm- this is not enough cooling for this class of engine.

Now if I can just get the right pump on this baby I will be good to go.

 

In situations like this where one try's different ideas and slowly improves the situation generally turns out to be 2 or even 3 problems together.

I think it very unlikely in todays age that an engine has faulty parts, I think it also unlikely that a manufacturer will fit incorrect parts, Its always easy to blame this.

Like the claim of the amateur to have bought a new but faulty spark plug!!!

The size of the intake is often misunderstood and a soft hoses used that collapses restricting water flow, A raw water strainer too small etc. This is the area I would go.

How high is the riser on the exhaust.

 

Hey Frosty,ive bought a new faulty sparkplug, it happens.
Steve.

 

Doubt that very much, You either dropped it and closed the gap or cracked it using incorrect box spanner or your plug cap was broken /cracked, your HT cable was corroded or you bought the wrong plug with R for resistor with "R" HT lead, or the distributor cap was cracked,--- Etc Etc Etc.

 

Nope, faulty plug, believe it or not,manufacturers are not perfect.

 

As a mechanic since I left school at 15 I never had a bad plug and then as service manager for Renault France and then transport manager for Sealand shipping in UAE I never ever had a bad plug.

You should buy a lottery ticket. Im tempted to say utter bollocks but I would never say that.

But you were expecting me to say I was a dental cleaning technician so I will let it go.

Sorry --utter bollocks

 

Ever here of a 'recall' frosty?

Highly engineered and tested systems in vehicles which simply fail to meet engineered goal when placed into service.
Boats are far worse.

Your point is a good one- pick the most common point of failure first: the operator....

 

You want to talk about recalls!!! Im not talking highly engineered . There is nothing in a spark plug. Its a 1/8th rod going from top to bottom, hit it with a hammer and take a look. There is resistor plugs---- a bit more technical.

Seriously before replying hit a spark plug with a hammer and take a look.

 

Most antifreeze has only 5/8 the heat transfer ability of simple water.

So use water , and see what the results are.If the cooling improves , only 30% antifreeze will give the engine corrosion protection/water pump lubrication most need.

Antifreeze selection is important IF you have any aluminum in the engines as some EAT aluminum.

The large truck industry sometimes uses www.evanscooling.com as it allowes the engine to be operated at higher (more efficient) temperatures.

Its expensive , but might work for you.

FF