Hydrosport vl270

Has anyone ever altered one the original design that is.
Its a 17 1/2 ft 790 lb bass boat thats a semi tunnel v,not enough lift in the short tunnels that are only at rear of boat and not a true stepped pad in the center.If so what were the results of either adding a pad to that long wide strake or pad making into a higher stepped pad or adding onto the two outward sponsons that are to short,and are to narrow.Steering is a pia when first up has to settle so for 5 sec or so nothing zero response,,pia in a turn,runs hull down sweet even in 3 fters.Hull up id rather run my old allison at 80 than it over 50.
150 hp 2/1 gr yamaha can have it come completely out of the water if gas is stepped on,from sitting position so jumping up and response at low speed or hull down not a problem.
So what im asking is anyone ever tinkered with that design a tad.
Or is there in expensive software that will do it for me.

 

What is a hydrosport vl270? Yes, a boat, I got that part. Some of us, or most of us, may not be familiar with that particular boat. Please post some pictures or refer us to a manufacturers brochure or describe the bottom configuration in detail.

 

uh

Dont have a pic of the back,guess ill have to take one.From the front looks like any other bass boat,it has a pad of sorts starting like a hanbys at the front getting wider and deeper as it goes back about 12 in x 1 in at end,no steps.
Each side then has a shorter about 3 ft long strake that comes back to rear creating what I believe is a three point tunnel hull,side sponsons are about as thick at the end as furring strips.Not near enough lift,yet enough to make it tricky in full wot turns.Thus why they are called semi tunnel hulls but instead of one tunnel two one each side of that wee pad.

Ill see if I can take some pics of the rear and bottom near the transom tomorrow.
Im thinking possibly just add on a pad fiberglass it in and then its a stepped pad as higher,short sponsons then shouldnt touch except in a turn,and be easy to do and hide.
They wanted lift but not to much,its not a good hard water boat up,but runs fine down in it,790 lbs and the front will come up easily,but that rear as is while it gives lift is like having a parachute on it,limits its topend.Steering at times is neutralized ,same problem in rc boats built this way,gets up until it settles in no steering not hard at all just has no effect for say 3-4 seconds.Rc modders fixed this with two STABILIZERS or trim tabs.Know this as every forum that came up in my quest for finding the solution was an rc forum.And dont like the things.Its a fix for a design problem,not a solution to it.
Only bass boat made that has them that I know is a gambler as it cant get on pad without them.

 

It's for catching really fast bass, right?

 

Un hooked and ready to go.

Why are you launching a boat in a cow field?

 

My allison 2002 was fast,high eighties with a 200 hp,this is 300 lbs lighter and 20mph slower with a 150.Same 2002 with a 150 75 out of the box no setup.
As for 60 mph bass dunno never hooked one going that fast yet.
I like to get there fast and get back fast leaving the rest of the time for fishing.
Also have a hole 42 miles way id like to be able to get to in reasonable time in this.
And dont desire to run the whole way hull down 31-43 mph depending upon conditions,hull up this should pass every triton and ranger out there with less than 250 hp.
Had this weird idea a boat design forum someone may have altered one or have software that can tell what or how it would handle and possibly how to change.
Its parked in my yard cow field is property near me,they get the beef I get the bs.

 

Exactly right Submarine Tom. You must be a tournament winner to know of this. We like to keep them secret

Post some pictures of the running surface.

Good thing about kplanes or lesser tabs is you can mount and remove them in a couple afternoons if you don't like what they do. You can mount them a tiny bit high so they don't add drag once you're up. Customizing the fiberglass will make it hard to resell. It might be easier and cheaper to swap hulls.

 

Thanks will take some tomorrow.
Know where you are coming from but these hulls have little trade in value.As for what I have in it it there is a story I bought the motor and the guy said why unbolt it here a long ways from home give me 200 more for the boat and trailer and take it all.trailer is pristine I value it at 180 dollars so its a 20 dollar boat,been using it for lil over a year on rough as a cob ky lake.Minor craze crack I had to repair in corner near transom its held.
Nicked named it the motor toter as cost about as much as one and served same purpose.
Any way it looked so good didnt want to trash it,and had monetary problems(medical bills) so didnt change the motor out to my allison sold it instead.Now if I can just get it to run like a scalded duck.

 

That's the best looking twenty dollar boat I have ever laid eyes on.

 

I could show you several pics with cracks near transom in splashwell,others said couldnt be repaired,so prior to trashing tried my hands with fiberglass not internal external,one coat disappeared so put two on the worst side,discovered it isnt hard to do,and one should wipe away from mat never coming back as you build a ridge up.Wanted to see if it would hold so didnt even sand it down,then had a 1/4 diamond plate made bolted thus it wont ever seperate.Hydrosport made some of the first kevlar boats didnt put near enough support towards that transom,most have craze cracks.Now im wishing had sanded it down a year later,ky lake is a rough on boats.Normal one runs 20 ft here or more this is 17 1/2.
Heres the back end
http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp228/lilmule12002/pad001.jpg
Then a shot from front to back those short tunnels exist back only look close the strake is next to the trailer bunk and bunk takes up the room in the tunnel ,kinda small.
http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp228/lilmule12002/pad002.jpg

Right side crack
http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp228/lilmule12002/DSC00460.jpg

Right side side repair
http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp228/lilmule12002/Picture007-9.jpg

Left side repair
http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp228/lilmule12002/Picture005-16.jpg

Plate
http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp228/lilmule12002/Picture001-18.jpg
Not going anywhere,hydrosport made some of the first kevlar boats thought was indestructible didnt put enough support in near transom,almost all have cracks there in splashwell

Been 14 months since repair holding fine,ky lake norm is 2 1/2 -3 fters 8 months a year,even though not sanded sort of out of sight.
From looking at the hull it would appear I could add a pad to that pad making it into a stepped pad with bit of wood and then glass over,how would it behave, have enough lift with an additional inch to run on pad only?Be easy to hide bottom is painted not impregnated with color(gelcoat).

 

I don't know about these small tunnels or how they work. I'm not sure if they're tunnels or steps. I've never had a boat with them. How many inches or feet forward do they go?



Run this by http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/profile/jimboat.html

I don't know. Ask Jim if the AeroMarine Research software and material would apply to your boat.

 

Center what looks like a pad starts at front very thin much smaller like a hanbys gets wider and deeper as it comes back ending in what appears almost to be a pad.
Each small tunnel only exists about last three ft of boat.
If they existed all the way thru would look like a gull wing then.
Front is like a deep v bottom,rear is a three point cat.
At this point will just keep it to put put around and mess some more with setup none of which is like any including race boats ive ever had such a time with.