Hartley Flareline 16 project

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by djaus, Jul 12, 2013.

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  1. djaus
    Joined: Jun 2013
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    djaus Salted Nut!

    The Hartley will never be moored so anti fouling paint won't be needed. The orange was my stepdad's idea as it's a really safe colour should it ever turn turtle. I fully plan to go off the coast in the boat & do some fishing. The orange depicted is just a standard colour on my PC's paintshop software. I merely wanted an idea what the end result might look like. Frankly I like it, but I'm partial to a darker blood orange I think. White is so bland, I wanna shine yeh. I'm not going anywhere near gel coat, that stuff is trouble (with a capital "T"). I planned on using a thinners based auto paint as I'm familiar with those types of Acrylics. Easy to spray on, easy to buff & easy to touch up dings & scratches in the future. Same theory as my car basically. Plus being orange, if the paint job doesn't go to plan & I get an orange peel finish, well, that would just be perfect wouldn't it! I'm going to look at a trailer tomorrow & it looks like I'll buy it, a bit rusty but exactly what I needed design wise. Latest video (no:5) is now up. New frame ply bracing is in!---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- View attachment 83297 .http://youtu.be/4i2ULrEqHRk
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2016
  2. djaus
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    djaus Salted Nut!

    What type of boat is that PAR? Looks beautiful.
     
  3. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    That's a Bartender (bartenderboats.com), a double ended, full plane powerboat of some note. Known for it's sea worthiness and robust build. It's a plank over frame build, but I've often wondered why she hasn't been converted to taped seam.

    Yes, the cuddy top is white to keep it's interior cooler. The boot stripe is "swept" at each end to hide any trim differences under varying load conditions, the bottom paint isn't an antifoul, as this boat is trailer borne, but the color was chosen for it's contrast. The black topsides are permissible in it's operation area (Seattle) and make the boat look longer and leaner. If she had a light colored topsides, the natural finishes of the cabin and combing would make her appear top heavy.
     
  4. rasorinc
    Joined: Nov 2007
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    rasorinc Senior Member

    If you are going to paint the boat orange then I would go all the way and paint it international orange per SOLAS.
     
  5. buzzman
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    buzzman Senior Member

    Yeah, darker blood orange would be a nicer colour.

    The visibility while upturned is a good idea safety wise. Based on the 'be prepared' motto, it may as a result never be needed....hopefully.

    But with the styrene floatation added into the sheer, aft and bow areas, should be pretty safe even in the outer Derwent or around Maatsuyker or Maria Is.

    Good fishing there, I'm told... ;)
     
  6. djaus
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    djaus Salted Nut!

    Thanks Rasorinc, orange solas is basically what I'm looking for. I'm just throwing colour ideas around at the moment & with a bright orange like the one pictured I figured black would break it up a bit. I also think white hull's are way over used, it's so common & I want something different & colourful. Red is average and well used, yellow is too much, that's why I kinda' met in the middle. I don't want it to look like a lifeboat though. Also I bought another trailer today. Needs some work as expected 'cause it's steel but the price was right & had all the features I wanted. That video will be up soon.
     
  7. djaus
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    djaus Salted Nut!

    So, no complaints about my auto paint idea?
     
  8. rasorinc
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    rasorinc Senior Member

  9. djaus
    Joined: Jun 2013
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    djaus Salted Nut!

    Sure looks nice but painted with what?, re: http://www.glen-l.com/picboards/picboard17/pic872a.html . I plan on using thinners based gloss acrylic as it's easy to spray on, easy to fix & hide scratches & as it's an auto paint it is reasonably resistant to vibration. The Hartley is never going to be a show piece. here's a couple of photo's of my car to illustrate the paint job I did on it about 1 year ago. Gloss acrylic, no clear coat. Cut & polished to finish it off.
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2016
  10. buzzman
    Joined: May 2011
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    buzzman Senior Member

    Makin' progress, Dirk. Looking good so far.

    Not criticising, but I probably would have epoxied the old transom and the hidden side of the false transom, just to ensure encapsulation....but epoxy *is* expensive....so on a budget job just doing the edges is probably OK.

    Before you finish the outboard well and the deck supports it might be a good time to think about the floatation foam to go in the spaces either side of the well. You'll pretty much need to fill those spaces deck to hull (allowing space at the hull for condensate to drain). Will be much easier to shape and cut the foam blocks without all that extra timber in the way!

    Another thought was that the S/S brackets to the transom could maybe have a hole drilled at the flange on the stronger, so if any water did pool again it could drain towards the keel....so before you bolt them in.....

    Just random thoughts....

    :) :)
     
  11. djaus
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    djaus Salted Nut!

    I'm actually not going to worry about floatation. With fishing in mind I want to use the aft sections for other things. Installing foam would take up a lot of space. I can fit some in the bow & along the sheer in the future & with possible condensation issue's in mind I would rather avoid this problem. I'm never going to venture out in rough weather or bad swells & will never cross any inlet bars so being swamped is unlikely. The steel brackets will get the rear corner cut out to avoid water pooling, I'd already thought of that. They will also get a coat of resin over the lower screws once they're fitted after the 'transom to hull' joint is glassed. I will also fit the brackets with the flange facing downward toward the keel as 2 of the 4 are mirrored in design. There are plenty of occasions during any given day that I have time to stop & contemplate my next move. For example, the aft decking will feature a fish cleaning station on one side. Once the deck is fitted I will resin on some 2" walls around the edge in order to fit a chopping board in the recess, will have a couple of drainage gaps to the rear above the transom to allow a bucket of water to be sloshed over the deck when finished. The other side deck will also feature a resined 2" edge with gaps & have a round hole cut into it to allow a deep bucket to drop in to store cleaned fish or live bait. If the bucket contains water & it sloshes, it won't end up in the boat (in theory). You might want to take a look at some of my other videos on my youtube channel, namely my model boats. I have a good head for problem solving & engineering designs. Life experience has given me much wisdom & knowledge.
     
  12. djaus
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    djaus Salted Nut!

    Buzzman, You being in Australia you might help with this question: one of the requirements for going offshore (in Tas) is to have a radar reflector onboard. You know anything about this law? Also I should have said that I did treat the new transom with DOT as well as everything else in the boat. So with the new transom's edges glued up & everything painted it should be pretty well protected. Plus I will be giving the cockpit side of the false transom a coat of resin too.
     
  13. buzzman
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    buzzman Senior Member

  14. djaus
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    djaus Salted Nut!

    The different states do have different rules. Example: in VIC you need to be 16 years old to obtain a license but in Tas you can get one at age 12. Theres no reqirements to carry charts in Tas either. I think I said in another thread that I rarely see small boats at the ramp with radar reflectors. Could be wise to have one if one ventures into shipping lanes, which I won't be doing. I'll get the low down when I sit my license test.
     

  15. djaus
    Joined: Jun 2013
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    djaus Salted Nut!

    Bung plug reshaped to make it easier to remove & fit (from round to square). Secured to the outboard bracket via some 20 pound fishing trace. Not enough slack to reach the prop' but more than enough to sit it in the outboard well when the boat is on the trailer. Did the same with the trim rod that slides through the outboard bracket. So if I want to remove the rod & adjust the engine trim while on the go or should the bung ever come loose, I won't lose either of them.
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2016
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