Hartley Flareline 16 project

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by djaus, Jul 12, 2013.

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  1. buzzman
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    buzzman Senior Member

    The reason you feel crrok once you stop moving is that the inner ear gets out of sync with the eyeballs and sends conflicting messages to the brain, which makes you feel woozy and seasick....so you either need to go out a lot more and get your 'sea legs' or do some trolling at low speed.....

    Dunno about the motor dragging / stern to swell, but I suspect it's something like that. Ask on the hydrodynamics thread if you *really* want to know.... ;)
     
  2. LP
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    LP Flying Boatman

    Weather vaning?
     
  3. djaus
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    djaus Salted Nut!

    Care to elaborate...
     
  4. LP
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    LP Flying Boatman

    I'm thinking that most of your underwater lateral area is concentrated aft of midships and your above water lateral area is located more forward so if there is any wind at all, there will be a tendency to weathervane the bow, facing the stern towards the swells. It's a guess, but with the cabin structure of your boat, I think it is a possibility.
     
  5. djaus
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    djaus Salted Nut!

    I would agree with that. Thanks LP
     
  6. buzzman
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    buzzman Senior Member

    Pull start is both a blessing and a curse.....you can still start the boat with a less than fully charged battery....but you may not realise the battery is less than fully charged, which usually indicates a holding or recharging issue.....

    With elctric start, you know straight away if the battery is 'flat'..it turns over sluggishly or not at all.

    Might be an idea for the future to fit an amp meter and a volt meter, so you know the state of charge and if the alternator is charging...??

    BUt the new rub rails are a good idea....

    What many people do in this sitch is to hang two cylindrical fenders against the boat, then over the top (outside) that, a 'fender board' - a pice of 6x2 that hangs between the two fenders, but this is mor for places with the vertical dock posts outboard of the dock edge, so your solution for you sitch is neat.

    One suggestion - maybe add a big fellet of goop to the forrard edge of both to assist spray deflection, otherwise gobs of water will slide along the hull, hit the verticl rail and 'shatter' and blow up and into the boat, rather than aft and away.....

    Even a narrow piece of 6mm, splayed along it's long edges - maybe 75-100mm wide - and glued betwen the forrad edge of the rail and the hull forrad of the rail would be even better.

    It's a pity you've done the rails already, as they could have been angled forward for a 'speed' effect, and still done the same rub rail job....however in a purely 'functional' boat, what works, works.....
     
  7. djaus
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    djaus Salted Nut!

    The 2 new rails are angled forward. Excess spray shouldn't be a problem...touchwood. I'll soon find out as I'm taking the boat out today.
    They're fitted in a position that should keep them clear of the water when on plane, for the most part anyway. Look back at the photo of the boat tied to the pontoon. The lower sheer rub strip is above the water even when just sitting idle.

    I don't like the idea of actual fenders dangling over the side as they would at certain times just get in the way. I like to keep all things in life as simple as I can.
    I quietly laugh when I see someone with a boat that's got ALL the trimmings, as if they won the lotto & bought a boat with "no expense spared"!
    More money than brains some of them.

    A predictable outcome it was, being the fender slats that I fitted to the boat. They only served to get stuck on things, namely the tail light posts on the trailer. So out they go.

    As it happened I had to cart a trailer load of garden waste to the rubbish tip so I stopped at the recycling buy back "shop" that's on site.
    There I was lucky enough to find some long lengths of rubber with a near solid core. Perfect for the upper rub strip.


    I also found an old life jacket. Halved it in 2 & with the webbing re-sewn they are excellent fenders.
     
  8. buzzman
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    buzzman Senior Member

    Looking good, Dirk. How'd you go with the floatation?

    FYI, I just got my Hartley Scamp on the trailer over the weighbridge, and the combined weight was 780kg. [ie: more than the legal weight for an unbraked trailer in NSW].

    The tare on the rego papers is 250kg, making the boat 530kg. And that's a runabout, with no motor, internal furniture, floors, bridge deck, windscreen or fittings.

    I knew it was a heavy sucker, took 4 of us to flip it onto the box trailer when I brought it home, but I'd guess-timated about 300kgs, so I was WAY out....
     
  9. djaus
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    djaus Salted Nut!

    Sheez I'd hate to think what my unit weighs. I can find out though as there's a local quarry with a weigh bridge so I might drop in there one of these days.

    With all the new steel my trailer would easily weigh 750+kg, then there's the boat...mmm...not sure I wanna know. It is real heavy at the draw bar end, I struggle to lift it on my own, & pulling it up a slight incline (driveway to carport) requires extra hands to push! I'd guess 1.1 ton or there about's. I'm glad my Fairmont has the Tickford sports suspension. Trailer tows nice on the hwy at 90 to 100kph. Sucks the fuel though but them's the breaks.

    Floatation yes. Had to get some more glue to fill the screw holes where the fender bars were so I used it to fit more foam. Put some more in the transom area & filled the spaces on the sheer between the rear of the cab & the next frame. Still more to glue in though.

    I also removed the carpet while I was at it. I figured there's only so many fish we can drop on the floor before it starts to stink & attract unwanted insects. Glued up all the screw holes too while I had spare glue. After a fresh coat of paint it'll look better. I'll give it a coat of enamel when I paint the rest of the boat. It'll make cleaning a lot easier & besides it's more of a work/fishing boat than a family cruiser so the carpet won't be missed. Looks a little odd though at the mo'.
     
  10. buzzman
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    buzzman Senior Member

    LOL...yeah I've often wondered why fisherfolk put carpet on the sole - unless it's watrerproof 'marine' carpet, and can be removed so it can be brushed, disinfected and hosed down on the driveway, can't see the point.

    I've seen some guys use that fake grass stuff they use in kiddies playgrounds, cause it's plastic and washable but still offers some grip.

    I just went back to the weighbridge after offloading the Hartley - finally found someone willing to take it on and do it up (I needed the space in the shed for my sailboat build) - and the trailer *actually* weighs only 180kg.

    So the Scamp weighs 600kg...!!!

    Reckon yours might be 750kg by the time you add in the weight of the cabin and the motor, so if the trailer is 750kg as well......you might need electric brakes...

    At least, you would in NSW to be legal, as over 750kg GVM you need brakes...

    But at least I now know why my 1.8L Corolla was struggling to tow it above 90km.h on the highway..... lol
     
  11. djaus
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    djaus Salted Nut!

    I actually had a bit of drama today, with the motor.
    I have noticed over the past couple of trips that it wasn't firing on all cylinders upon startup. Once running though it was ok.
    After the plug clean I ran the motor & it sounded kinda' odd. Not firing on all 4 by the sounds of it. So anyhow we get to the Mersey river & sure enough the thing would misfire. Funny though that once at full throttle & on plane the misfire would disappear. Back to idle it would miss again. Still started easy & ran well enough to get a bit of fishing in before we got rained on & quit!

    The diagnosis, cracked ceramic portion of no:2 spark plug. I noticed it when I cleaned the plugs earlier & it slowly dawned on me that it is most likely the culprit.
    Will get some more on the 23'rd so will let you know what happens. Hopefully that'll solve it.

    As per my last post I had some trouble with the engine misfiring last week.

    I replace all 4 spark plugs today, started the motor, it ran fine but 1 minute later it stalled. Took some effort to restart & proceeded to misfire once again.
    I purchased some carby cleaner & gave both carb's a good soaking but the problem was still there. Removed & inspected the fuel pump & cleaned the filter to no avail.
    About to resort to booking the boat in to a technician, one of the mechanics I rang suggested it might be a "lean misfire".

    So after I rotated one mixture screw (less than 1mm, I swear!) the merc' came to life in a very healthy fashion. Runs better now than it has since I started using it!
    Presumably it was just a bit of crap stuck behind the mixture screw & the moment I touched it, it cleared.
     
  12. buzzman
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    buzzman Senior Member

    Phew! At least it wasn't the power packs or whatever fires the plugs - that is usually a bugger to trace and exxy to fix.

    Seems like you got lucky....again....!!!!! :) :) :)
     
  13. djaus
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    djaus Salted Nut!

    Bit of advice might be good here.
    I have suspected & today confirmed that water is weeping/seeping (very small amounts) in via the keel rub strip. It can't be coming from anywhere else. Cabin to deck join was re-resined, deck is sealed, windows are sealed, hull is fibreglassed & no water was/has been spilled in the cab. I don't hose out anything inside the boat either.

    RE: the pictures below indicate the trouble area & where water was found.
    The hardwood keel rub strip (Huon pine) is water logged (not soft) over about a 2 foot lenght. I've also noticed that the alloy plate strip is bowed slightly out of shape where the front trailer roller sits under it. I think there's simply a small gap between alloy & timber.

    As an example. I had the boat on the water today for about 6.5 hours & when I got home I noticed about 4 to 5mm of water sitting under the cabin seats, bottom centre of the hull on each side of the stem/keel timber beam (which is 3 inches high), but contained in front of the angled stringers.

    The plywood hull skin isn't soft nor is the stem itself, which I thought strange. There was also a "tide mark" from previous seepage. Remembering of course that I painted the inside during the resto'.

    So, my approach to fix this is to slide the boat back on the trailer to then drop the stern & raise the bow. Then I plan to remove the alloy rub plate, just to drop it down out of the way by removing the screws ( won't remove the whole length of it).
    Then I'll attack the keel rub strip with a heat gun to strip off some paint & dry it out. I'll do this until the timber is 100% dry. Then I plan on laying down some resin & glass matting to encompass that section of the rub strip & seal it to the hull. When cured I plan to use more resin to refit/seal up between the alloy rub plate & the timber & use yet more resin when fitting new screws to seal them in too.

    You folks know by now that I'm no perfectionist & I'm not going to do more than I really have to, but I'll make sure it's strong & water tight...hopefully!

    An ideal scenario would be to fit a new entire rub strip but that's a bit of task, not one I want to dive into.

    Some feedback on my approach to this repair is welcomed.

    To be accurate these are old photos taken during the rebuild. The roller that is bending the alloy strip is in front of the white roller (centre photo).
    I'll shoot some video & take pics in a day or 2 to give an exact account of whats going on.

    I wound up just using some fibreglass resin in order to seal the timber & the area where it joins the hull. The repair wasn't in need of structural support so using matting wasn't necessary. Plus it would have been awkward getting the matting to fold around the keel.

    It appears to have done the trick too. Had the boat out on the water for 6 hours the following day & no leaks.

    In another month or so I will buy the paint to put the final colour on the hull & deck. So I will post again then. I have to repaint the cockpit sole as well as I removed the carpet & sealed up all the screw holes. I just bought the paint for that so I'll shoot some pics when I'm done.

    I used the new paint today to cover all the glued up holes in the sole. Also fitted a ply panel to the stbd side to protect the foam. (port side still to be done)

    The camera highlights the colour difference between this & the original colour I used but the naked eye virtually can't tell them apart....& it was just a random (similarly coloured) 4lt tin of paint from my fav' second hand shop!

    I finally got around to buying the paint I wanted. So I will be getting stuck into some prep work & painting the Hartley in the next few weeks.

    I have actually just bought a second 25lt fuel tank which is full & waiting for the first epic offshore fishing trip. Just need a good flat day & I'll pop maybe 8 or 10klm out & see whats there...fish wise I mean!
    I will definitely shoot some vid when I go out.

    Hopefully it will resemble this when I'm done.
     
  14. whitepointer23

    whitepointer23 Previous Member

    looks great. i love red. plus u get the extra speed from a red paint job. she looks a like new boat.
     

  15. buzzman
    Joined: May 2011
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    buzzman Senior Member

    Just shows what a small budget and some serious application of elbow grease can actually achieve.

    Good job!
     
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