hamilton 213 wear ring

Hello, Can anyone explain why I have poor service on my wear rings....the boat lives on a lift and has very low hours in salt water enviroment. I have replaced rings once in three years which cost a pile of dosh (hammering, torching, fairing,and insulation for bonding of new rings.... then bead blasting and fairing of exterior bowels & nozzels for repainting)

I now have that noise that seems to say... spend more on new rings (one engine) The boat all up has less than 100 hours in clean water (no sand)

I have been told that with the salt enviroment, an aluminum housing and stainless wear ring.... the dissimilar metals are causing the corrosion to bubble the push the wear ring out of shape......OK I get this but I just paid to have this done by a authorized hamilton mechanic. The boat set up for 1 year as I pulled fuel tank and replace the deck.....since the last re ring the boat does not have more that 10 hours and maybe 10 times in and out of the water?

It seems to me that this is a poorly engineered system as my boat must live on a lift in salt water. Any advice.any composite wear rings?.....Thanks in advance John

1990 windsorcraft 32' runabout with lapstrake fiberglass hull and total mahogany interior... buit with 454 and v-drives... I refit with 6.0 FI chevy's straight drive connected to 213 Pumps running 2.8 turbo impellers

 

The HJ 213 is supposedly designed for saltwater use. So corrosion due to saltwater doesn't seem to make sense- HamiltonJet intended this thing to be left in highly corrosive environments for extended periods.

Unless.... you say it lives on a lift. Thus, I bet the anti-corrosion anodes are dry most of the time, while some saltwater remains inside the pump. And as it evaporates away, the salt becomes more concentrated, even crystallizing out....

If they were my pumps, I might try giving them a good rinse with a fresh-water hose at each haul-out. Just spraying down the outside of the drive, and- most critically- blasting a fair bit of fresh water through it so that the bearings and thrust rings get rinsed, might make the difference.

 

response to matt

Matt thank you very much for the response. I do not belive that the issue is the impeller and the wear ring but rather the impeller housing and the wear ring. As I understand things the problem starts between the outside of the stainless wear ring and the inside of the alloy impeller chamber......this is the reason for bonding with a material that isolates these metal's. Inside the wear ring you have stainless to stainless which only fails after the galvanic action between the outer wear ring and alloy pump housing starts to push the ring out of round. Any Hamilton advice with this would really be appreciated.

 

Sounds to me you have a bastardised unit. Hamilton Jet never put the 213 out with a Turbo impeller option, even the 212 impellers don't fit as the 213 has a larger diameter shaft. I have however seen, and done 212 saltwater conversions. If you didn't know they could be passed off saying that they were the saltwater 213 variant. Also, a few of the guys in WA were machining down the mainshaft to fit the 212 impellers for gasoline engines.

As was said, I too have had hasstles with boats on lifts. salt laiden moist air can sit up to 6 feet above the surface, meaning that the vessel is still in a highly hostile environment. Same problem, zinc anodes weren't in the water completing the circuit in a favorable way. Salt water across both the alloy housing and waer ring would complete the circuit, then it only needs the slightest imperfection to 'blow out'.

Composite wear ring, I have had one machined out of high density poly ethelene (HDPE) once, put it into a Merc Sportjet (they dno't come factory with any wear ring).

This assumes that the wear ring is yet again the culprit

Post pics of the pump (inside and outside of the boat), may help to give someone an idea...

Hope that helps a little

 

speedboats, thank you for the reply. It will take me a while to post pictures but untill then I have a spare set of impellers which are turbo 3.4's.. the diam. at the back end for the shaft (at key way) measures 1 3/8 inch. I belive these are 213's with custom impellers as the boat is rather heavy 11,000 lbs and about 310 hp per side. In the case of the 213's how much room is available for a composite ring? and in your guestimate how pratical would a refit to this material be. could you guess on the amout or hours of labour to make this type of change in a step by step method?

Thank you again for your post and I look forward to your comments......PS would a zinc hanging from the boat (while on the lift) in the water held by a copper wire and tied into the bonding help the situiation? John

 

Doubtful. For sacrificial anodes to work properly, they need to be immersed in the same electrolyte as the component they're protecting- ions have to be able to migrate from one to the other for the circuit to be complete.

Have you tried contacting Hamilton's engineering guys in New Zealand? ( http://www.hamiltonjet.co.nz/contact_us ) I can't believe you'd be the only person keeping a jetboat on a lift above seawater- one of their engineers must certainly have seen this before, even if your local distributor or 'authorized' mechanic is stumped.

 

The composite ring is easy, but will involve a machinist. Remove the stator / tail peice, remove the stainless wear ring, machine a small amount from the alloy casting then press fit the composite ring. Initally make the ring to thick (small internal diameter), pin or grub screw ring to housing then machine the internal composite ring to fit the impellor.

The 212 and 213 share many castings, and are the same internal impellor. The model is a very simple code if you are aware of it. The first two digits multiplyed by 10 gived you the impellor diameter, while the last number gives you the variant.
ie,
211 = 210mm diameter, first version
212 = 210mm diameter, second version
213 = 210mm diameter, third version.

While the 211 and 212 are very different units, the 213 is the salt water variant and utilises many of the same castings. The shaft diameter is larger and is made of harder material. The suction peice houses what is essentially a power steer pump and integral fluid cooler. This arrangment drives the reverse bucket which is controlled using a proportioning valve driven by a 33C cable. The 213 was intended more for diesel motors, hence the coarser impellors and larger centre hub.

I've attached a pic of a 212, notice no hydraulic pump, as the bucket is driven manually with a 64C cable and large hand control.