Fabrics/cloth with vinylester resin

Discussion in 'Materials' started by gtflash, May 28, 2018.

  1. gtflash
    Joined: Jun 2006
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    Location: uk

    gtflash Senior Member

    I have only really ever played with epoxy.

    I have a small diy VE job, where I want to sheath a tank and strengthen a couple of areas of damage. I have a collection of materials, inc CSM, 1708, combi Matt and 45degree bi-axial. I think I need to treat it like polyester and lay csm down between layers , however I only really want a small lining. Can I just use bi-axial?

    Additionally will vinylester stick on cured epoxy if it’s fully removed of blush and keyed up?
     
  2. ondarvr
    Joined: Dec 2005
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    Location: Monroe WA

    ondarvr Senior Member

    The VE resin will stick, but not great, and the results may vary depending on the exact VE and epoxy.

    If all you want is a lining, then the bond isn't as important, but if the repairs are structural (and we have no idea what stresses it will experience), then it may not hold up.

    A single layer of Biax won't be as reliably water proof as CSM, you can end up with tiny pin holes in the laminate when just a single layer of fabric is used. Tanks designed to hold liquids have CSM as the first layer, not only for better chemical resistance, but also for a more reliable leakproof structure.

    When a single layer of fabric is used you need to apply a couple extra coats of resin or gel coat to ensure it doesn't leak, more coats of just resin may crack depending on the stresses. And I'm assuming if the epoxy failed due to the stresses, then the VE would be more likely to.
     
  3. gtflash
    Joined: Jun 2006
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    gtflash Senior Member

    Thank you ondarvr.

    It is a VE tank I have decommissioned but still want it to be watertight as it sits in a large proportion of the bottom of hull 300litres possibly. It is an old built in petrol tank which has had a poor standard polyester repair done to its roof, and this failed. The manufacturer used to build the tank into the hull, using the hull as the bottom of the tank. The original tank is in perfect condition, and the derekane resin shows no sign of failure, except where some clown cut the roof. I toyed with repairing it, but have decided against it and have a deck mounted tank in console.

    Issue is because of the potential flood area and the old fumes I think it needs to remain shut, and watertight, with just the vent and old hatches for access. I have VE resin suitable for a repair and have tried a tester patch in the tank with layers of CSM and it seems a solid repair.

    I am not confident I want to fit a bilge pump to remove any potential trapped water.

    The epoxy question was a separate query. Sorry to confuse the issue.
     
  4. ondarvr
    Joined: Dec 2005
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    Location: Monroe WA

    ondarvr Senior Member

    I would open up the old tank and use it for storage if it's located in a place where that can be done.
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2018

  5. redreuben
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    Location: South Lake Western Australia

    redreuben redreuben

    The best lining for fuel or water is 300gm split strand csm followed by a layer of tissue which I think Americans call veil. Follow this by a coat of waxed VE and then give it some heat to harden it.
     
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