Glue

Hi everyone,
looking for some advice on a Make/Type of glue, that anyone has used, that they would recommend when glueing oak.

 

What is the application?...different horses for different courses...

 

You will get a more precise answer by describing the parts that are to be glued. What is the application of the oak? What sort of oak is it....Red oak White Oak, Laurel oak, or other variety. Will the end product be exposed to water, heat, chemicals, Irish whisky, or other environmental situations?

 

In the past I have had good results with Balcotan,but that is no longer available.there are other high quality one part polyurethanes that will create a bond that meets D4 requirements and they are worth seeking out.Many Americans get rather emotional about Gorilla Glue in polyurethane form and I have never used their brand,so can't comment on it's qualities.A good amount of pressure on the joint during the cure process is beneficial.

 

Epoxy works well if the surfaces are cleaned with a 50/50 mix of alcohol and acetone.

 

Generally speaking, most "glues" like "Weldwood/Titebond/Resorcinol" form a chemical bond.
They require smooth/clean surfaces. light tight fitting and LOTS of pressure.
Epoxy is not so much of a "glue" as it is an "adhesive", it's a physical bond and it wants to have some space.
As such, the surface of the wood just as it comes out of the saw is more preferred than a glass-smooth finish, and you
don't want to clamp with too much pressure.

 

Hi,
Thank you for taking the time and trouble to reply to my question.
I must explain here that it was a general enquiry, I own a ex wooden fishing boat, that main frames are of white oak, some of which, I will have to replace, but other could be repaired.
I had read on the internet that oak was a difficult wood to glue, because of its dense structure of grain.
So thought that I would contact the forum to see if anyone had found a glue that they had used, and had proved successful.

 

Hi,
Thank you for taking the time to answer my question, and your tips on the surface of the wood, and clamping.

 

Required Clamping Pressure for PVA and urea glues: (generally, 100-150 psi for softwoods, 125-175 psi for medium woods and 175-250 psi for hardwoods). and Vacuum bag 50 psi. - 3.4 standard atmosphere of pressure
Epoxy (60-80 psi)

 

It's good to have some actual numbers but I don't think too many of us would have access to an autoclave or similar to boost the force inside a vacuum bag to that kind of level.

 

wet feet,
Short between the headphones.
Thanks for keeping the record straight.
Vacuum bag 12.15 psi. = .826 standard atmosphere of pressure is the max of my system.

 

Here are some specifications for bar clamps. It would be best practice to use the manufacturer specifications.
https://ponyjorgensen.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Pony-Pipe-Clamp-Fixture_user-manual.pdf

 

I wanted to see just how bad of an idea it was to try to draw a vacuum on 1/2 wooden hull. This is not a vacuum bag just a sheet of plastic. Did not work, never obtained vacuum. Even the tiniest hole keep you from drawing a vacuum and vacuum clamping can have a brutal learning curve.

 

Vacuum bagging, assuming the pump goes to zero, would give 14.5 PSI.

 

Here is the chart that I used. Project V4
https://www.veneersupplies.com/docs/vacuumpresschart.pdf
Here is the gauge on my system and a bar that I designed and built.
Carvings by: my sculpting instructor Master Mary VanAbba (Mary May)




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