Gheenoe rebuild

Discussion in 'Projects & Proposals' started by sideshow, Nov 15, 2012.

  1. sideshow
    Joined: Nov 2012
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    Location: Florida

    sideshow Junior Member

    The good and the bad news .

    The mold came off easily. She is still soft so I'm thinking she isn't 100% cured yet since she's indoors. The lines look great.

    The bad news. I leveled her off on the inside multiple times and even used chalk lines to make sure she was level.

    Well on the outside I put the chalk line at center and the front points downward about 1/4 ''from the front to the back middle .

    So I now I need to ask and find out if I should find the low spots and just level it out or when I do the center cut make sure my new mold there goes perfectly level.

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  2. sideshow
    Joined: Nov 2012
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    sideshow Junior Member

    When I say low spots I mean mark where the gap is front to back. Then do lay ups till I reach perfect level again.

    Or not stress it since I'm doing a center cut and widening. When I make my metal mold make sure the center line is perfect and all will be good ?

    Someone toldme the 2x4 stringers could pull it back out since these boats have a lot of flex to them.
     
  3. sideshow
    Joined: Nov 2012
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    sideshow Junior Member

    Today I went in and she is solid like a rock. I decided to sand out the air spots and rough up the rest.
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  4. sideshow
    Joined: Nov 2012
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    sideshow Junior Member

    Work has been kicking my but so I haven't had much time till this weekend . Raising the outside edges 4'' higher. Finished the outside layer. Next is to scuff the inside and do an inside layer up .

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  5. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    Location: Coastal Georgia

    SamSam Senior Member

    You probably will have to add structure because your boat is probably twice as big as it was before, but the 4 original parts are only laminated/built/engineered for a boat half the size it is now.

    When you get it into the water, test it in steps up to the point of abuse. If there are any weaknesses, they will become apparent.
     
  6. sideshow
    Joined: Nov 2012
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    sideshow Junior Member

    I know. I plan on adding 3 stringers and 6 - 8 bulkheads. There will be 3 top flat decks and two lower flat decks.
     
  7. sideshow
    Joined: Nov 2012
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    sideshow Junior Member

    Just got home from a long day. Scuffed the rear and started the transom. 3 layers thick . Now to wait for her to cure and start scuffing again. Next will be the wood and elbow, then stringers.

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  8. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    Location: Coastal Georgia

    SamSam Senior Member

    Not sure what you mean by scuffing, and you don't have to let things get a full cure. As long as the exotherm heat doesn't build up too much, you can keep laminating. You don't have to let it set-up and cure to where it won't clog sandpaper. If you do a good layup, you don't even need to sandpaper or 'scuff' it up. You do need to remove nubs and threads that stick up and will form air pockets under the laminate, but a sharp paint scraper like this will easily cut the nubs and stuff off a green layup a whole lot faster and easier and cleaner than sandpaper will grind them off a cured one. Just hit it quick with a file to sharpen it right back up. This kind here has 4 cutting edges and replacement blades can be bought separately.
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  9. sideshow
    Joined: Nov 2012
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    sideshow Junior Member

    Nice idea. The epoxy I'm using has wax in it I think I was told. SO I have to clean and scuff the wax off with 40-60 grit so the next build ups will adhere.

    This is what I was told at fgci.
     
  10. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    SamSam Senior Member

    I'm not familiar with epoxy resins, but as far as I know epoxy doesn't need wax. Polyester and vinylester are air inhibited resins and need a 'cover' to exclude the air to cure completely or to cure non-tacky. Plastic or peel ply excludes the air, or pva sprayed on will do it. Wax apparently 'floats' to the surface and seals off the air.
    Epoxy is a thermoset resin, I believe all it takes is heat to cure the surface to a non-sticky stage.
    Maybe someone who knows can say whether or not epoxy needs wax, or if it needs to be scuffed all up before the next lamination.
    Either way, those paint scrapers are very useful for removing a lot of material without raising clouds of glass dust.
     
  11. sideshow
    Joined: Nov 2012
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    sideshow Junior Member

    From what I'm told the epoxy has a wax built into it that comes to the surface when curing. The wax has to be scuffed off or the next layers will not bond correctly.
     
  12. sideshow
    Joined: Nov 2012
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    sideshow Junior Member

    Worked 5 a.m till 5 p.m today then 5pm till 10;30 pm on the boat. Grinded the transom and forward 24'' and then center for stringer. Tomorrow I will grind the other 2 stringer spots and if I have time start cutting my wood for the transom and stringers.


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  13. sideshow
    Joined: Nov 2012
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    sideshow Junior Member

    Another long day at work then to the boat. Just got home and beat.
    I sanded both sides on the bottom for the other 2 stringers.

    cut and married the transom pieces together.

    Next is to cut the stringers and get ready to glass.....

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  14. sideshow
    Joined: Nov 2012
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    sideshow Junior Member

    Went in and set the transom in. I had some small gaps so I made some 1 and a 1/4 chop strand filler and filled it in.

    Used screws to make it nice and tight to the back half.

    Next . To sand and get stringers ready . I want to glass the transom and stringers together for a better strengthening bond.

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  15. sideshow
    Joined: Nov 2012
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    sideshow Junior Member

    Finally glassed in the stringers and I'm beat. Took about 6 hours to do.

    The good. The floor and sides laid down perfect.

    Bad news. The top cap piece wouldn't lay down for crap. Air bubbles everywhere on the top.

    Question and I know the answer most likely. Do I need to sand down the whole top and just reglass it over the sides ?

    This sucks , but I think it has to be done :( .

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    air bubble :(

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