Gheenoe rebuild

Discussion in 'Projects & Proposals' started by sideshow, Nov 15, 2012.

  1. sideshow
    Joined: Nov 2012
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    Location: Florida

    sideshow Junior Member

    I have a 1987 Gheenoe 15' nmz highsider .I am in the start of sanding her down to the glass with 40 grit .

    I have been doing a lot of reading on this forum and decided to join. I need some advice on things and this forum seems great with that.

    My vision is to add 3' to 4' in height to the side walls . The walls now seem a bit week . I then want to cut the boat in half width ways and add 4' to length . After that is glassed in I want to cut her in half length way . Taper from the original front to about 18'' at the stern. To strengthen the noe I will add 3 stringers and a bottom deck glassed in .

    I am going to build a frame to hold the boat in place when I cut her up . I plan on fabbing some light gauge metal to follow the true lines of the boat. Install the metal on the inside and glass the outside. flip and install the glass on the inside. I think a 6 '' over lap will be fine.

    I will be using epoxy. So for step one what oz. cloth do you think I should use for the job ? should I do more then 1 layer outside and one inside ?

    I am going to ask advice for each step instead of everything at once.

    Thanks for the help. I'll post pics below.
     
  2. sideshow
    Joined: Nov 2012
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    sideshow Junior Member

    Pics.

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    This is where I'm at . Flu kept me home today .
     
  3. hoytedow
    Joined: Sep 2009
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    hoytedow Wood Butcher

    Welcome, sideshow. Get well soon.

    You may want to build an alignment jig around the original, then lengthen and re-align that, before you cut up your Gheenoe.
     
  4. sideshow
    Joined: Nov 2012
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    sideshow Junior Member

    Me the girl and the kid went to my shop and did the whole bottom today . Found another hole and grinded it out a bit.

    Next is to grind the top of the inside walls 4'' in. They are very thin so I will be glassing the inside and outside of the walls .

    Then to build a jig for the future cutting .

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    Still have to figure out what exact woven roven for the epoxy . Lost on the oz. size atm .
     
  5. hoytedow
    Joined: Sep 2009
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    hoytedow Wood Butcher

    Good luck with the project. I would use multiple layers of 10 oz cloth at different orientations until I reached the right thickness to match the original hull plus maybe a hair or two.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    You're kidding right?
     
  7. hoytedow
    Joined: Sep 2009
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    hoytedow Wood Butcher

    I am sure he meant (") inches not (') feet.
     
  8. sideshow
    Joined: Nov 2012
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    sideshow Junior Member

    yes I meant inches lol . Sorry . I have a wireless keyboard that loves mistyping for me. Yes '' not '

    I want to raise them to add a flat deck and be able to put on a bigger motor.

    I'm dreading trying to fab pieces of metal to match the hull . Will be a project.
     
  9. sideshow
    Joined: Nov 2012
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    sideshow Junior Member

    Thanks . What I was thinking was to do 1 to 2 layers on width. Cut the middle down the length . Taper and do 2 layers. Then add 1 layer to the whole hull . Afterwards do the sides .

    I will do 3 stringers inside then a full flat deck glassed to the whole hull . I am thinking this will make it very strong.

    Do this order sound ok ?
     
  10. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Just a few layers sounds a bit light, what weight cloth or what type and which resin system?
     
  11. sideshow
    Joined: Nov 2012
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    sideshow Junior Member

    I am going to go epoxy . woven roven. The gheenoe is only 1/4 '' thick in the thickest spots . sides are 3/8 '' now.Most likely go 10 .oz unless given the advice to go bigger.

    the inside of the hull tapers down. I figured if I add 3 support stringers 2'' by 1'' that run the length of the hull . Glass them in . I would then glass a permanent bottom flat deck made of marine plywood that I would glass to the stringers and the sides of the whole hull . Sealing it in and making it apart of the framing to stiffen the boat. The whole boat as of know only weights about 90 lbs .

    I'm new to this so if my thought process is flawed please let me know.
     
  12. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Woven roving is unnecessary with epoxy, and wasteful of resin too. Use a 45/45 biax and you'll need several layers to make up 1/4" of laminate thickness. It'll take 8 to 10 layers of 17 ounce biax to make up 1/4" of hull shell thickness in a hand layup. 5 to 6 if you use 24 ounce. it'll take 12 to 14 layers of 10 ounce regular cloth to make 1/4" thick laminate. These figures assume good resin/fabric ratios.
     
  13. sideshow
    Joined: Nov 2012
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    Location: Florida

    sideshow Junior Member

  14. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Fibreglast has some nice stuff, but their prices are usually high. Raka also has a good product line, though I don't use this for hand layups, as it's too thin. Try Bateau.com or epoxyproducts.com for goo.
     

  15. sideshow
    Joined: Nov 2012
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    sideshow Junior Member

    I took some pics today to show what I am planning. I measured the hull. 3/16 '' thick .

    I am a metal fabricator for a roofing company . After I split the boat I am planning on breaking a 24 ga. stainless steel or a .040 mill finish alum.

    machine rolling it to do the angles then rivet or glue it in the underside. Then glass the outside. When I'm done outside I will then glass the inside and do it over the metal .

    Here are some pics of a scrap piece of metal I hand bent to show what I am talking about.
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    Here you can see how thin the hull is.
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