Getting ready to remove the engine on my 73 Silverton

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by missinginaction, Aug 28, 2007.

  1. missinginaction
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    Location: New York

    missinginaction Senior Member

    Based on the input I received in the previous thread I'm set to remove the Palmer engine, Borg Warner transmission and Walters v-drive from my boat on September 8th.

    Most of the prep work is pretty straight forward.

    I have never dealt with a true inboard boat before however and I was hoping to get some input about pitfalls I might encounter while removing the propeller shaft.

    This shaft is connected to the v-drive using a split flange. This looks like a standard approach. The propeller shaft is held to it's side of the flange with a set screw and two clamping bolts. I'm planning to disassemble the split flange rather than fool around with the clamping bolts since I'm assuming that the shaft has never been removed from this boat.

    Things don't look too corroded down there so I'm hopeful that things will come apart fairly easily. If the flanges are corroded together is it acceptable to use some heat (propane torch or MAPP gas) to help seperate? I'm thinking that some heat and gentle persuasion with a hammer might help as a last resort.

    Once I get this assembly out of the way I'll spend some time this fall repairing the stringers.

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions any of you may have.

    MIA
     
  2. charmc
    Joined: Jan 2007
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    Location: FL, USA

    charmc Senior Member

    MIA,

    Nice to see you're moving forward on the project.

    If you apply penetrating oil to the split flange coupling you may find no need for heat. Spray liberally, turning the shaft by hand for full coverage. Tapping the flanges (actually banging, but with moderate force) should help the oil penetrate. If you can't see any signs of heavy corrosion, this should do the trick. If the bolts come out but the flange faces stick together, apply more penetrating oil and tap again. Wait a bit, and try inserting a chisel or similar sharp edge between the flanges, tapping with a hammer, if necessary. Unless there is really heavy corrosion, they should come apart. I'd save the heat for a last resort only if a few applications of pen oil doesn't work.

    It might (might) be possible to leave the shaft in place if it doesn't interfere with the access you need, and if the bottom around the shaft gland is sound.

    You've found a way to prevent idle hands in the off season. Good luck with the project!
     
  3. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Charlie has it about covered. You shouldn't have any trouble with this coupling, they come apart easily. Rather then driving a chisel on a stubborn flange, use two hammers, one on each side of the flange and bring both together at the same time on the side of the flange. After a good dousing in penetrating oil, this technique will free the most stuck of flanges.

    Take lots of pictures, from every angle you can. They'll come in handy when it's time to reassemble and your memory of how things came apart is dimming.
     

  4. missinginaction
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    Location: New York

    missinginaction Senior Member

    Thanks PAR & Charmc, I'll be down there tommorrow and start with the Liquid Wrench. As we all know a picture is worth 1000 words.

    As long as I'm doing this I think it would bee a good idea to pull the entire shaft and check that it's true. The stuffing box / packing gland has never been addressed to my knowledge. I can see it, but getting any tools down in that area, well that's almost impossible. When the boats together it is impossible! With the powertrain out I think that I'll see to replacing whatever is down there with a more modern packing gland that is more maintanance free. That's a discussion for a winters day I think!

    Regards,

    MIA
     
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