Garvey dory build

I only showed that for an example. If you need 1000; you can get price per unit down to maybe 20 cents.

 

I started laying out my frames today and I’ve run into an issue. Please use the photos below for reference. The gunnel follows a curve from aft to bow. Frames 5 and 6 are the midpoint of the curve and are the same size at the gunnel. My issue is either with frame 3 or 4. There is only a 1mm difference in frame width at the gunnel. Basically the same size. This seems like it would interrupt the curve. Between the two, frame 3 seems like the likely culprit as the disparity in size is greatest between 2 and 3.

I am torn between altering the plan to fix what I perceive as an issue and building it to spec because I don’t feel knowledgeable enough about boats to say it’s an issue for sure.

I could really use some help with this one.

 

The rate of change between frame 2,3,4 is nonsensical with 1168 and 1169.

What I would do is make a 3/4" by 3/4" pine or close batten that is all clear, no knots. Then attach the batten to frames 1 and 2 and then 5 and 6 with frames 3 and 4 removed.

fr 1-2 rate of change is 55/1060
2-3 is 53/1105
3-4 is 1/1168 ??? Seems wrong to me
4-5 is 15/1169

 

Settled on modifying frame 3. Just took the average or frames 2 and 4 and wound up at 1137. Makes a lot more sense.

On a side note, I was at my local getting spot picking up some lumber for a commission and came across a pile of boards the fellow referred to as “trailer wood”. He didn’t know what it was. Most has the pith running straight through but at 8/4 and dirt cheap, I figured I could put out something usable. It looked a lot like cherry when rough cut but when I took the plane to it, it revealed something I’m unfamiliar with. It’s hard, red to brown, doesn’t smell great when cut. My first thought was red maple but the section in the picture is quarter sawn and there is none of the fleck I would expect. Any ideas? Really, I’d just like to figure out if it’s something with some weathering qualities that would lend to this build.

 

Looks like a variety of IPE.
Very dense and heavy. Often used as decking in trucks and rail cars as it is fairly immune to forklift jabs.

 

Post #33 illustrates exactly why lofting is a part of boatbuilding when building from plans drawn at a small scale.Laying out the line on the floor at full size will immediately highlight any point of concern.A few millimetres of deviation from the initial dimension will make no practical difference to the usefulness of the boat.The alternative is to set the frames up and attack the high spots with a sharp plane-the sort of tool that doesn't have a switch!It will be used for applying the bevels in any case.

 

It’s been a while, but I feel like I’m past due for an update. I got the frames on the strong back today. I still need to clean up the cutout for the keelson. I’m waiting for a flush trim bit to arrive after the bearing on mine seized. In the next two weeks, I’m hoping to have the keelson milled and scarfed along with the sheer clam and chine logs. My humble plan is to have the hull glassed, painted, and flipped by the end of July. We'll see what life permits me to do.

 

You seem to have found some excellent wood for the frames,there isn't a blemish of any kind evident.It will be a shame to hide it under paint.I am a little puzzled by the absence of notches for the chines as it will be a bit of a challenge to cut them with everything set up,as you have to go through both thicknesses.It can be done,but it will be a bit more work.
The bearing for your flush trim bit can probably be given a bit of an extension to it's life if you give it a generous dose of WD40 and wobble the outer race backwards and forwards.It can take a couple of minutes but I have never seen one so bad that it couldn't be improved,or even brought back to near new condition.I have killed a number of them by trimming melamine laminates and as sharpening would reduce the cutting diameter-and hence leave a small ridge-I salvage the bearings for a case such as the one you now have.A small coffee cup from a vending machine is quite handy for holding a little WD40 for a longer soak and the bearings can then go in the spares box until needed.

 

The chines will get marked and cut to the curve of the hull. Once I get the frames set, I’ll mark for them and cut them out in the shop.
As far as the bearing is a concerned, it is beyond repair. It broke into pieces and slowed my router bit to travel deeper than I wanted it to.

 

Not much to show in the past week. Evening rain has been regular so I’m haven’t been able to pull out the planer to mill the keelson.
In the mean time, I’ve been doing my research and walking myself through the process. I’ve settled on two layers of 10oz cloth and plan to get the epoxy resin and cloth from us composites.
Paint has been a trickier subject and I would welcome any advice. The boat will be trailered and sheltered when not in use so there is no need for anti fouling. It will spend most of its time on the nature coast of Florida. Known for its abundance of oyster beds and sudden shallow sandy bottom. It will also be beached regularly.
I would like something relatively abrasion resistant but I think the biggest plus would be ease of repair.
I would also prefer not to spend as much on the paint as I have on the hull.
I have considered vc performance epoxy, but as I understand it has no uv protection so it’s probably not best. One part poly seems ideal as far as repairability goes but I’m unsure about its overall toughness. Gel coat is out of the question as I will be doing this myself and without a sprayer.
all input welcome.

 

I got the keelson, sheers, and chines scarfed this weekend. The transom was the last of the frame members to put together. Trying to avoid buying lumber, I made kind of a Frankenstein transom. Some mahogany, cherry, white oak, and walnut mixed in there. Just need to assemble and fair. Should be plywood time in a week or so.

 

big day today. I ordered the plywood. I got the keelson fitted to the transom and steam bent it down to the bow. Cut the starboard side chines. I should be ready to sheath it very soon. I need to figure out how I plan to scarf the plywood, though.

 

Long overdue for an update. My wife decided that I had been promising her a new bathroom for too long and I decided that she is usually right. I had to put the build on hold for a bit. Back at it now. I have all the longitudinal elements on and the sides are faired for plywood.
cutting the scarf joints for the plywood was quite an experience. I have some help coming this week to get the two sets of three full sheets of plywood glued up. Any luck I’ll have the sides on in a week or two. Updates to come. Question for the gallery. As the time comes closer to fiberglass the hull I am growing increasingly more skeptical of my ability to put on two layers of glass in one go. Even with several people (none of whom have any experience with fiberglass) I’m worried that the epoxy will start to set before we can make our way back to start. Is the benefit of a chemical bond worth the stress of attempting it? For reference, I am using 7 oz cloth and I got the slowest setting epoxy offered by us composites.

 

An hour here and there after work has produced some substantial gains over the last month. The sides and bottom are sheathed. There were some hectic moments and I don’t even want to think about the epoxy mess I made have to sand away after she is flipped but it’s really cool to see it in this condition after almost a year of part time work.

 

I've been wanting to build this boat i was wondering if you would be willing to send me a copy of the plans keithlayla29@gmail.com