Garvey dory build

[JP in FL]

Hello, Jesse here in Ocala Florida.
For three years, I have been working up the courage to build a boat. This summer, construction will finally begin. I have settled on a plan from Jeff Spira- his 19’ Galveston garvey dory. Mr. Spira passed away several months ago and his website was taken down. I had to reach out to folk who had built the boat previously to get plans. Unfortunately, the only plans I could find were from New Zealand and thus in metric. No worries, Ill break out the metric rule and build a decidedly unamerican boat.

I am hoping to get into a community of folks who have the knowledge to answer the multiple questions I already have and those that will surely come later.
I am a capable woodworker but I have never messed with epoxy/fiberglass before. Nor do I have an understanding of wiring, steering, live wells, and bilges (or boat building for that matter) that I would like to have planned before I start the build. I’ll create a new thread appropriate for such questions but I wanted to introduce myself and prepare you for the barrage of questions which are sure to follow

 

[gonzo]

Is this a plywood planked boat? Congratulations to joining the madhouse. However, shame of you going metric.

 

[JP in FL]

It is ply on frame.

 

[bajansailor]

Welcome to the Forum Jesse.

Unfortunately, the only plans I could find were from New Zealand and thus in metric. No worries, Ill break out the metric rule and build a decidedly unamerican boat.

I think you will quickly become an enthusiastic convert of metric once you start using your metric ruler and tape!
I find it so much easier to use metric rather than imperial - especially so when I have to add or subtract mm instead of fractions of an inch.

Rather than starting new threads for each different topic as you have suggested above, I think it might be easier to keep everything in one thread - as you have started this one, carry on with it, and see where it goes.
You can take inspiration from the thread started by @DogCavalry a few years ago re the design and construction of his 28' Sea Sled.
Sea Sled madness. It’s in my brain. https://www.boatdesign.net/threads/sea-sled-madness-it%E2%80%99s-in-my-brain.63079/
Pretty much everything to do with the build of his boat is in this thread, and it is an epic - 167 pages and more than 2,500 replies so far.

 

[fallguy]

Metric is actually easier for boatbuilding. Base 10 is so simple, and accepting an error of 2mm is easier than 1/8" and less!

The most important part of the build is setting up the strongback and jig. The best purchased I made were a quality digital level and a nice self leveling laser on a tripod. I made 3/16" holes on the stations equidistant from the centerline and it made lining up my 32' boat with 10 stations much easier.

The laser also made it easy to transfer waterline to outside for painting, and an immeasurable number of other places I used it..inside and measuring down, etc.

 

[bajansailor]

Are you absolutely set on building the Spira 19' Garvey?
What is going to be your intended usage for the boat?

I am wondering if you have seen the plans available from Boatbuilder Central?
https://www.boatbuildercentral.com/...s/power-boat-plans/power-boat-plans-17-to-20/

They also have a very neat plan for a Texas Sea Sled on page 2 of the above link -
https://www.boatbuildercentral.com/product/texas-sled-18-boat-plans-tx18/

And there is also this 16' Garvey from Glen-L -
Jimbo https://www.glen-l.com/16-Jimbo-SG-AL-garvey-center-console/products/273/

And a couple from Sam Devlin -
Little Cod 21 | Devlin Designing Boat Builders https://devlinboat.com/little-cod-21/
Honker 18 | Devlin Designing Boat Builders https://devlinboat.com/honker-18/

 

[JP in FL]

Are you absolutely set on building the Spira 19' Garvey?

I settled on this design because it met all of my criteria.
1. Decently small draft. I mostly fish in the crystal river area so lots of flats and mangrove fishing. It has a draft of 7 inches loaded.
2. I’d like to be able to get offshore on the east coast of Florida on nice days and the hull can handle 2-3’ chop if things get dicey in passes or once I’m offshore.
3. Motor choice. For lots of reasons, I wanted to be able to power the boat with a smaller motor. The designs recommend 50hp but it can get on plane with as little as 40.
4. Cost. Because the boat is constructed with readily available lumber and is only glassed on the outside, the hull should cost less than $1500 to complete.
5. Design. I have worked in construction and have been practicing woodworking for 10 years. The design of this boat seems more inside my wheelhouse than others which are focused more on fiberglass and epoxy work than woodwork.
5. Most importantly, I have a family of five and the design (wide beam and square bow) of the hull will be more comfortable for myself, my spouse, and three teens.
As in all things, I am open to change. I don’t claim to know anything about boat construction and my hours of YouTube research have not made me overconfident. Is there a reason to think about moving over to a different design?

 

[bajansailor]

Is there a reason to think about moving over to a different design?

I would be a wee bit worried about your requirement #2

2. I’d like to be able to get offshore on the east coast of Florida on nice days and the hull can handle 2-3’ chop if things get dicey in passes or once I’m offshore.

Yes, this garvey hull will handle 2' - 3' chop, but only if you are going very slowly - I think that if you try to get her up on the plane she will be slamming terribly.
Hence my suggestion for a garvey type with some deadrise in the hull bottom (ie a vee shape) rather than a flat bottom.

Everything in boat design is a compromise - a flat bottom allows you to plane with minimal power in calm water - a deep vee needs more power, but is more comfortable in rougher conditions.

 

[fallguy]

Two concerns.

1. Garvey hull is not so good.

2. Glassing on one side is a terrible idea. Why? The inside of the wood will expand and force the glass all sorts of strange ways very likely resulting in delam from compression

 

[JP in FL]

Yes, this garvey hull will handle 2' - 3' chop, but only if you are going very slowly - I think that if you try to get her up on the plane she will be slamming terribly.

This is fine by me. I’ll don’t plan on heading out in those king of seas. 99% of my fishing is back island and flats. If I head out on glass and things get dodgy, I don’t mind limping in.

Glassing on one side is a terrible idea. Why? The inside of the wood will expand and force the glass all sorts of strange ways very likely resulting in delam from compression

As far as this is concerned, I can’t speak with any authority. I’ll can only point to the hundreds of builds cataloged online, some 20 years on, that are still in service. The gentleman who gave me the plans has been running his for nearly 10 years without issue.

 

[gonzo]

10 years in service is a good argument that it works. However, don't trust metric people too much.

 

[fallguy]

10 years in service is a good argument that it works. However, don't trust metric people too much.

I'm not sure even an argument 20 years of service is a good one. Plenty of monocoque hulls last far longer. I have a Minnesota cold molded hull from 1960. It never would have survived Florida that long, but the reason it is still around is water did not get to the wood.

I purchased plans years ago of a boat I really love, but after awhile built a different one. The downside of this design is that Florida will not be kind to the interior structures unless you saturate them in epoxy and even then, most likely, water will get between plank n frame and rot the planks and the frame

What happens when it rains is the big question. Because in FL, boats don't dry out like here.

 

[JP in FL]

I'm not sure even an argument 20 years of service is a good one. Plenty of monocoque hulls last far longer. I have a Minnesota cold molded hull from 1960. It never would have survived Florida that long, but the reason it is still around is water did not get to the wood.

I purchased plans years ago of a boat I really love, but after awhile built a different one. The downside of this design is that Florida will not be kind to the interior structures unless you saturate them in epoxy and even then, most likely, water will get between plank n frame and rot the planks and the frame

What happens when it rains is the big question. Because in FL, boats don't dry out like here.

I looked back over his explanation for clarity. His argument is basically this: wood doesn’t rot because it gets wet. It rots because it stays wet. Because of this there are two options. Either make sure it can’t get wet, or make sure it can dry out if it does.
Because the people who are building his boats are not professionals, including me, and because boats with frames, a gunnel, limber holes, and open bilges are extremely difficult to glass, the best laid plans will still have a flaw or two. If water seeps in to the wood through pin holes in the epoxy and glass, it will become trapped and unable to dry and will eventually rot.
Conversely, using paint allows all the wood inside to dry when stored. Assuming it’s stored under cover.
As someone who has worked in the trades, I must admit I am dubious. I have seen plenty of cedar facia rot sitting right out in the sun.
My skepticism aside, the positive reports from those who build his boats are overwhelming. Plenty who live in temperate climates. Any problems I have seen have stemmed from deviating from his advice and either sealing a deck with no ventilation or pouring foam between frames. Both of which trapped water and caused rot.

 

[fallguy]

And there is the conditional. If water gets in..if you build monocoque and laminate the inside and seal with epoxy; the likelihood of ingress is low.

If you build this design; glass on outside, any water going through the plank or ply or frames stays wet. The only way to ensure some life is to coat all the frames and insides of the boat in epoxy. Or find out the hard way what happens between plank and frame..

I think you ought to talk to a few more people. You are not building a wood boat; you are building a wood boat glued together and ingress between frame and plank is certain.

 

[Blueknarr]

But he isn't building monocoque. He is building ply on frame. Which is nye impossible to seal the interior surfaces. Ventilation will provide a longer lifespan than encapsulation.